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Any idea where I can find some 3/4" thick wheel spacers in 5x5.5 bolt pattern that have studs? I'm looking around, and the thinnest I see for 5x5.5 is 1.25" thick. I see 1" and .75" thick spacers in other bolt patterns, but not the pattern I need.

I don't want to get just a spacer ring, because my studs aren't long enough for that, and I don't really want to pull the studs out, especially in the rear.


Ideas?
 

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Any idea where I can find some 3/4" thick wheel spacers in 5x5.5 bolt pattern that have studs? I'm looking around, and the thinnest I see for 5x5.5 is 1.25" thick. I see 1" and .75" thick spacers in other bolt patterns, but not the pattern I need.

I don't want to get just a spacer ring, because my studs aren't long enough for that, and I don't really want to pull the studs out, especially in the rear.


Ideas?
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech

The only place that I could find that had 3/4" with studs.
 

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Got another question!

I replaced both dash light bulbs with the equivalent replacement LED bulbs months back when I was re-doing the gauges and wiring. Both of them have since "burned out" (or whatever you call it when an LED stops working). The first one started flickering from full intensity to about 1/4 intensity, it would be a slow flicker, and then the flicker would speed up faster as the engine revved up. After a week of that, it finally just doesn't work anymore.

Now, a few weeks later, my other bulb is starting to do the same thing, and now it's all but gone as well.

So... is this just crappy LED lights? Or possibly indicative of poor wiring? No other electrical parts have been having issues. And I've never had an LED flashlight or anything LED stop working before.

If I remember correctly, the lights (original style) are a single wire light, they get their ground from the body of the light housing. My jeep is 12v.


I suppose I could simply put the old incandescent bulbs back in place, to see if they still work?

Are LED lights more sensitive to having a bad ground than incandescent bulbs? I've got a ground wire going from the back of the dash to the negative battery terminal, just to make sure the dash has a good ground, since several items on the dash use a body-ground instead of a wired ground.
 

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Low back bucket front suspension seats and rear :

What brand are you guys using? I like the look of the corbou in vinyl black but have had bad results with them in the past with their cloth seats and quality.

Any wear and tear on or comments of how they have held up?

For the rear I want it to match but retain the look of a stock non suspension seat and they sell one that fit the bill too.

Thanks for any input
 

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I've got a set from Twisted Stitch. I've had them for probably a year now, and they sit un-covered outside every night (well, un covered accept for the cloth bikini top on my jeep).

They are very comfortable. I got mine with the short bottom cushion (like a UTV seat?), and in black vinyl. They hold you in the seat well enough to feel real good, but they aren't difficult to get in and out of. They are perfectly fine for a daily driver.

The head rest is removable. If you don't want it at all, you can have them make the seat without the mounting holes for the head rest at all.

It's their "Apex" seat. Apex

They make bench seats as well. Very nice folks, I called them up, told them what I wanted in a seat, they asked me a few more questions, and made them for me. Completely happy with them :)






 

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I'd throw a vote in for PRP seats. They have a 'drain' option now in the bottom that would be really handy in a open flat fender. They offer is with the side by side size seats and will add conventional tabs or mounts to whatever frame you want.
 

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I have the corabeau seats for the last 8 yrs with no problem. Still work and have held up great. I have the vinyl and cloth combo suspension seats. Just bought in for the rear for my son! No problems here
 

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So I have a few things that I want to TIG weld with 220 power. I only have 110 power at home, but a few friends of mine have 220 like for their drier, or in their garage.

However, the plugs don't look like what I have on my machine (my machine is dual voltage). I need to find a wall plug that looks like this,

Can they be adapted, or what's the best way to go about plugging into 220 when the connections don't match?

Regular 110 on the left, and the 220 plug from my machine on the right. It looks like just an double-sized 110 plug.


 

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Just go to Home Depot. Bring the plugs if you can. They have all sorts of electrical plugs to choose from. Buy some of the bulk wire and make an adapter if you need too! Be relatively cheap.
 

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As Mykul said, buy one of those receptacles to fit your welder and a male plug to fit your friend's socket, and wire it up with some awg12 or heavier for use at your friends' place.

It's possible that you have 220V service but no outlets in your garage. Turn off each and every breaker in your panel, and carefully map out which breakers go to which garage outlets. If you have outlets reasonably close to each other which are controlled by breakers on different sides of the bus bars in the breaker box, you can also make a cable for home. Use a socket that fits your welder plug. Connect two 110V plugs, wire the hot side from one to one of the blades, and the hot side from the other one to the other blade. Tie the grounds together and run them to the round pin. Tie the neutrals together, insulate and fold them back out of the way. Use a meter and show that you have 220V between the blades, and 110V between each blade and the ground pin. Some newer 4-wire 220V plugs would use the neutrals, but that isn't what you have.

When I was in grad school my landlady told me to "go ahead and get that clothes dryer" I had asked her about, her electrician would put in an outlet for me. When it became obvious that no such oulet would be coming, I fabricated a jumper cable of this type, and nothing was ever said about it. Although I am quite sure that it doesn't meet any electrical code anywhere, it worked fine.
 

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Is your dryer electric or Gas?
gas
The socket you need is a 50a
Thanks! At least I know what it's called now, haha :-D



Just go to Home Depot. Bring the plugs if you can. They have all sorts of electrical plugs to choose from. Buy some of the bulk wire and make an adapter if you need too! Be relatively cheap.
Hm, that sounds like a good idea! :) I think I'll do that.



It's possible that you have 220V service but no outlets in your garage. Turn off each and every breaker in your panel, and carefully map out which breakers go to which garage outlets. If you have outlets reasonably close to each other which are controlled by breakers on different sides of the bus bars in the breaker box, you can also make a cable for home. Use a socket that fits your welder plug. Connect two 110V plugs, wire the hot side from one to one of the blades, and the hot side from the other one to the other blade. Tie the grounds together and run them to the round pin. Tie the neutrals together, insulate and fold them back out of the way. Use a meter and show that you have 220V between the blades, and 110V between each blade and the ground pin. Some newer 4-wire 220V plugs would use the neutrals, but that isn't what you have.

When I was in grad school my landlady told me to "go ahead and get that clothes dryer" I had asked her about, her electrician would put in an outlet for me. When it became obvious that no such oulet would be coming, I fabricated a jumper cable of this type, and nothing was ever said about it. Although I am quite sure that it doesn't meet any electrical code anywhere, it worked fine.
I talked to my landlord way back a few years ago about getting 220 put in, but he said I'd probably be fine welding the things I'm welding with 110 (for my furniture and stuff, that's true!). I'll bring it up with him again next time I see him, I told him I'd gladly pay for the electrician's bill to have it put in properly. I don't want to mickey-mouse anything on the house, I'd rather just have it done properly by an electrician, electricity scares me :laughing: Especially after our neighbors house caught fire a few weeks ago due to bad wiring in the attic. It didn't burn down, but it burned pretty good.
 

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Would a small vacuum leAk cause a MAP code to pop up? Code P0107 on my 4.3

I'm sick of throwing money at this thing hoping it will fix it. I did tap into the intake and install a nipple for the vacuum modulator line going to my TH350. The tranny shifts like it should, so I don't think it's the vacuum module.

The engine is running like crap. Stalling, hard starting like its flooding, and seriously lacking power.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Best way to cut the hole for shackles

So I was practicing on cutting the openings with a plasma cutter and a 4.5' angle grinder. my question is when using the grinder the cuts that go past where I need open can those just be welded shut? Also I was thinking of cutting the back hole a little bigger and then welding the mount to a plate then sticking the mount through and welding the plate on the backside to the bumper or should I just protrude it a little and weld or make it flush and weld and then around the mount on the front. Is that over kill? Every pic is upside down for some dumb reason but it doesn't matter. Thanks
 

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So I was practicing on cutting the openings with a plasma cutter and a 4.5' angle grinder. my question is when using the grinder the cuts that go past where I need open can those just be welded shut? Also I was thinking of cutting the back hole a little bigger and then welding the mount to a plate then sticking the mount through and welding the plate on the backside to the bumper or should I just protrude it a little and weld or make it flush and weld and then around the mount on the front. Is that over kill? Every pic is upside down for some dumb reason but it doesn't matter. Thanks
Mine were set flush and welded, filled in the extra cuts from the grinder with weld also. They have held up great so far on the jack stands!
 

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I used them on my last buggy and will be using them on the willys.

How I did it was a plate welded to the end of the shackle mount, slide it through from the back and welded the plate and the front. This way it has a ton of surface area and can never pull through.

That said..I'm pretty hard on things so I tend to over build :homer:



Thanks for the seat input. I'm torn between the twisted stitch seats and the corbeau. I have twisted stitch seats in my buggy and do love them.

Hopefully I can decide Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
I used them on my last buggy and will be using them on the willys.

How I did it was a plate welded to the end of the shackle mount, slide it through from the back and welded the plate and the front. This was it has a ton of surface area and can never pull through.

That said..I'm pretty hard on things so I tend to over build :homer:



Thanks for the seat input. I'm torn between the twisted stitch seats and the corbeau. I have twisted stitch seats in my buggy and do love them.

Hopefully I can decide Monday.

I think that is what I'm going to do to. Thanks.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I think I'm abusing this thread but I love the dialog,


What are you guys with 9 slot grills doing for your replacement headlights and turns? I'd like to keep it set back but go more modern at the same time, led turns probably


I had also saw a build with a led black out light on the driver fender, was that new or modified?

Other thoughts are guages, looking at GPS speedometers, anyone do a set of nice ones th a time have held up?
 
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