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I think I'm abusing this thread but I love the dialog,


What are you guys with 9 slot grills doing for your replacement headlights and turns? I'd like to keep it set back but go more modern at the same time, led turns probably


I had also saw a build with a led black out light on the driver fender, was that new or modified?

Other thoughts are guages, looking at GPS speedometers, anyone do a set of nice ones th a time have held up?
There are modern replacement headlights that will fit in the factory style MB/GPW housings. Older thread here with some links...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-willys/1040386-mb-gpw-headlights.html
 

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I have KC driving lights on mine. THey seem to work fine, accept for the plastic mounting bracket for them, they tend to slowly creep out of aim, I have to adjust them every week or so. Wish it were metal, maybe I can come up with something.




I got a question. I'd like to wire up an hour-meter to my jeep. I don't want to have it trigger from my main power switch, because sometimes I accidentally leave it on when I shut the motor off. My thought was that I could have the hour-meter run off of the alternator charge wire that goes back to the battery. But then I realized, since it's attached to the battery, there would always be power there anyway.

Any thoughts or ideas? I have heard of some hours meters on tractors being triggered by oil pressure. I'm not sure I'd like to go that route, as far as I know the only oil pressure port is already being used by my oil pressure gauge. I could probably put in a T-fitting, but not sure if that's a good idea or not??
 

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What style alternator do you have. The 3 wire gm alternators can run a hour meter, from what I have read.

You could also get a 2 or 3 prong oil pressure switch (like I used for my electric fuel pump) and wire it in.
 

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What style alternator do you have. The 3 wire gm alternators can run a hour meter, from what I have read.

You could also get a 2 or 3 prong oil pressure switch (like I used for my electric fuel pump) and wire it in.
I have a 1 wire alt. ALthough there is one or maybe 2 other studs that look like they might be some sort of power connectors? I'm not sure, I'd have to look at it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
[QUOT E=Mykul;24834914]Do you guys run the flat or domed lights in the MB GRILLE[/QUOTE]
I'd like to find flat. Looks better IMO. For turns I have stock front 09 HD street glide



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I ran led flush mount lights. They only have a single wire, but I used a trailer light converter and was able to have parking lights and turn signals all in one.

I actually used two trailer converters, one wired liked this How to Add Turn Signals and Wire Them Up and for the front, I wired the parking light wire to brake light in wire. I then conected the blinker wires to the lights. It works great!


Not a mb but

 

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I used a clear lens domed glass high/low beam aircraft lights in original blackout buckets without the black out cover. My turn signals are a simple trailer marker light.

 

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Ratty,

How about a write-up and thread for the rebuild on your flatty?
When the time comes, yes there will be one. I'm starting a house build this year so that will take most of the funding available.

I will however give you what I'm thinking about.
90" wheelbase
35" tires
5.3/4l65/Atlas3.0
44/9"
4.88 gears
lockers both ends
3"/4" body stretch in the door
same at the cowl
build a new frame
new cage
10" suspension travel
lower ride height than before
Undecided about suspension
Had radius arms/trac bar ft/rr before worked good but hard on housings when I had more travel.

Big parts I have
48 2A body and 52 M38
5.3
4l65
44's
9's

So with all that I am fortunate enough to have 2 Jeeps. The other being a 57 CJ5 that will be my ride for now to get my fix.

 

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I'm looking for an upright bandsaw, MOSTLY for metal, I have a decent scroll saw for wood work. I don't need a huge band saw, I'm mostly thinking about using it for cutting straight angles into thicker metal. For thin metal, i have a throat-less sheer, but once I get to about 1/8" thick, it's not really usefull. For 1/8" flat bar, the sheer is fine. But for 1/8" sheet/plate, it's just to much really.


More thinking the bandsaw would be used for small-ish ornamental pieces, I've got a bunch of ideas of things I want to cut out and weld together. I was thinking a small-medium sized upright that is a bench-top model might work well.



Aaany way. How do I tell if a band saw is meant to cut metal or not? Or if it CAN cut metal or not. Is it just a matter of what blade is used on the saw? Or do I need to make sure the machine can go slow enough for metal? I see a bunch of bandsaws on craigslist, but most of them don't mention if they are for metal or wood or both.
 

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I'm looking for an upright bandsaw, MOSTLY for metal, I have a decent scroll saw for wood work. I don't need a huge band saw, I'm mostly thinking about using it for cutting straight angles into thicker metal. For thin metal, i have a throat-less sheer, but once I get to about 1/8" thick, it's not really usefull. For 1/8" flat bar, the sheer is fine. But for 1/8" sheet/plate, it's just to much really.


More thinking the bandsaw would be used for small-ish ornamental pieces, I've got a bunch of ideas of things I want to cut out and weld together. I was thinking a small-medium sized upright that is a bench-top model might work well.



Aaany way. How do I tell if a band saw is meant to cut metal or not? Or if it CAN cut metal or not. Is it just a matter of what blade is used on the saw? Or do I need to make sure the machine can go slow enough for metal? I see a bunch of bandsaws on craigslist, but most of them don't mention if they are for metal or wood or both.
In the bench top size....

SWAG Portaband Tables

Personally I wouldn't know what to do without my harbor freight bandsaw. It does horizontal stuff and then converts to vertical with two screws to mount the small table....

Metal Band Saw - Horizontal/Vertical Metal Band Saw

Plan on buying a good quality blade for it and spending an evening or two tuning it up for better cut quality.

You can generally use the 20-25 percent coupons on them. They also go n sale every now and again.

I wouldn't know what to do without mine now.
 

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I assume that a metal cutting blade can be put on pretty much any band saw? If a bandsaw is labled "wood working", does simply changing out the blade make it work good for metal, or is there more to it?


I would probably be using the band saw in the up-right position most of the time. Does the HF bandsaw work well in this configuration? When I read about it, most folks seem to use it horizontally, not vertically. I think I'd want something with a miter guide and fence for vertical work.
 

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speed makes a big difference when cutting. A wood saw with a metal cutting blade would need to be slowed down. Most likely now a problem as most quality saws have step pulleys on them just for this.
 

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I assume that a metal cutting blade can be put on pretty much any band saw? If a bandsaw is labled "wood working", does simply changing out the blade make it work good for metal, or is there more to it?


I would probably be using the band saw in the up-right position most of the time. Does the HF bandsaw work well in this configuration? When I read about it, most folks seem to use it horizontally, not vertically. I think I'd want something with a miter guide and fence for vertical work.
Aluminum can be cut faster, but in general you want less than 100 ft/min blade speed for mild steel. Chromoly and tool steel need about half that.

I use my HF bandsaw in the vertical position a lot, but it is a compromise. I have made a LOT of stuff with it though. There is a grove in the vertical table for a miter guide. The biggest limiting factor is the throat depth.

A fill size vertical saw would be better with a bigger table and more throat depth. It comes with a price and will take up more space. If its suppose to fit on a bench I don't think your going to get much better than the HF saw.

Don't underestimate how handy it is to have the saw be able to do cut off work. It is very productive to be able to just set it and forget it. There is a depth stop which is handy for repeats. You can set the clamp for angles. I don't know what your using now for that kind of stuff, but it is WAY better than an abrasive chop saw....cleaner, blade lasts WAY longer, quieter, etc.
 

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Makes sense, thanks :)



Another little question. I'm looking for a power switch that will let power pass through it for from the moment you hit it and continues to let power pass through it for a short while after it's depressed, then automatically turns off maybe 10-20 seconds later.

Does anything like that exist? Basically a toggle switch that automatically turns itself off after a short amount of time. The amount of time isn't really critical, just so long as it's more than a few seconds.
 

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Makes sense, thanks :)



Another little question. I'm looking for a power switch that will let power pass through it for from the moment you hit it and continues to let power pass through it for a short while after it's depressed, then automatically turns off maybe 10-20 seconds later.

Does anything like that exist? Basically a toggle switch that automatically turns itself off after a short amount of time. The amount of time isn't really critical, just so long as it's more than a few seconds.
Glow plug controller?
 
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