Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A buddy has a 92 pickup with the V6. Its overheatingbadly within 5 minutes of starting. He thinks the head gasket is OK, thinks the radiator is flowing well and has replaced the T-stat. I wonder if he didn't have catastrophic water pump failure.

Is this a known issue? Any other thoughts?

If it is the water pump, any tips or online guides? Part recomendations? I assume stick with a Toyota pump. Any thing else that should be done at the same time?

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,335 Posts
The water pumps can fail on that engine... since he will have it apart replace the timing belt also.

No mixture or loss of coolant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
No loss of coolant, no white smoke, no rough running. I know he could take it to a sniffer, but if it is this quick and bad, I think there would be obvious signs...

He did say that he couldn't see coolant move with the cap off.

It sounds like it is overheating before the tstat even opens within 5 minutes of starting, so I think the radiator cap is unlikely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It was working one day, and overheating the next. He started it up and started driving to the hardware store and it was overheating badly within 5 minutes. I doubt it is an air in the system problem - but I have been through that with Land Cruisers.

Any way to tell if the water pump has failed? I have never been into one of these engines.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
I just had one in the shop that all the blades on the water pump rotted away.
coolant was basically liquid rust on that one, but it isn't the only one i've ever seen do it.
Others SEEM like they're overheating, when in reality they are pressurizing the cooling system from a blown head gasket.
then the coolant gets blown out of the overflow, they develop a massive air pocket, and overheat in a hurry.

I seriously hate the 3vze. just plain crap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,238 Posts
Check the oil to make sure that there isn't any water in it.

On my old v6, the water pump needed to be changed at 120,000 miles to give you an idea of how long they last.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
id say do the water pump. im a mechanic in nor-cal. those water pumps do tend to take a dump. i have the same setup in my rig. its a good idea while your at it to do the thermostat and since you'll be in there the timing belt. it seems like alot now but it will be worth it unless the timing belt was done recently. make sure the timing is at top dead center and that everything is lined up right. and for the timing belt tensioner, after you take it off put it in a vice to compress it again. when you get the holes lined up use a very small allen wrench to keep it compressed untill the new belt is on and all lined up. then just pull the pin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Would pulling the hoses to the heater core give a good indication of whether the pump is dead on thjis engine? I know that on my BMW I was able to tell the impeller was sheared off by pulling the hoses to the heater core and seeing it not pump any coolant.



At this point he is resigned to pulling it apart for the pump, but it would be nice to be sure instead of buttoning it up and finiding it to be the HG (nothing points to it)
 

·
Cranky Moderator
Joined
·
7,366 Posts
If you think it has a leak somewhere else, go to Autozone and borrow the cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system and see if it holds 15 psi or so. If it has a leak, the pressure will drop.

Start troubleshooting with your brains!!! Not the keyboard!!! :flipoff2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
With the engine cold, take the rad cap off, start it, and when it warms up and opens the stat, see if you see coolant following. The rev it slightly and see if it moves faster or not.
If you think it has a leak somewhere else, go to Autozone and borrow the cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system and see if it holds 15 psi or so. If it has a leak, the pressure will drop.

Start troubleshooting with your brains!!! Not the keyboard!!! :flipoff2:
Steve -

I am using my brain, and so is he. I am 1000 miles North of him. I am 99% sure it is the water pump, but it would be nice to be 100 % sure.

The system has been pressure tested, burped, he had the rad out and flow checked it. No flow is visible through the rad neck - none!

I don't know this engine at all (but know Toyotas, and the V8 in my Tundra is a similar setup.

Just looking for some advice from the guys who know these engines.

I do believe it was catastrophic failure of the water pump, but doing diagnostics via telephone eliminates all 5 of your senses.....

While I have seen failure of BMW water pumps, I have never seen a Toyota pump fail - just wear out, and its almost always bearings or the seals.

Again, I will ask: I assume that using a Toyota pump is the best way to go?

Thanks!

Jim
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top