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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, so i am wondering if i can keep my batt connected in the jeep and keep the engine running to help keep the batt charged while welding?

i have one of those jumper batts to use for the 2nd batt in the 2 batts in series system.

i was planning on hooking the pos cable out of the jumper batt to the neg post of jeep batt. then take a set of jumper cables and hook one end of ground to the neg cable from jumper batt and then one end of pos to the remaining pos post on jeep batt.

now i have a free pos and neg end of jumper cable for the welding. ground the work and rod in the pos end.

am i on the right track here?

thanks
steve
 

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Do you really think your 12volt jeep will like the way you just hooked 24volts up to it?
 

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welndmn said:
Do you really think your 12volt jeep will like the way you just hooked 24volts up to it?
:D:D

Also you'll fry that jumper battery in the same respect. (ask me how I know.....:D:D:D Thank god Costco doesn't ask why something doesn't work. :D)
 

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this happend on the rubicon coming back from the clean up this last year..we came across a guy with a steering arm busted in half. had 3 batts. in series....forgot to remove the third from the vehichle...:eek: thank god for BIG fuses':D moral of the story is......REMOVE BATT FROM VEHICHLE!!!:flipoff2:
 

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It won't make the computer too happy either... Watch out for a back door spike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok- thanks

i imagine the draw on batt will kill it pretty quick right? say you run a couple beads or up to one rod max. then a guy could jump off a buddies batt. i guess i'll find out this answer if i ever have to trail weld.
 

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Could be done if you used a series parallel that use to be used on old semi trucks in the 60's and maybr the early 70's. They used 24volts to start but 12volts for everything else.

The switch could be $$ though.

Eldon McFarling did a writeup on hoe to do it one time.
 

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ScoutIITD said:


Eldon Mcfarland did a writeup on hoe to do it one time.
You lost? There may be 10 guys out of 15,000 that know who Eldon is on Pirate4x4. :rolleyes:
 

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ScoutIITD said:
Could be done if you used a series parallel that use to be used on old semi trucks in the 60's and maybr the early 70's. They used 24volts to start but 12volts for everything else.

The switch could be $$ though.

Eldon Mcfarland did a writeup on hoe to do it one time.
my '84 ford f9000 is 24v start, 12 everything else.


:flipoff2:
 

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GloNDark said:


:D:D

Also you'll fry that jumper battery in the same respect. (ask me how I know.....:D:D:D Thank god Costco doesn't ask why something doesn't work. :D)
LOL Gulity as well as frying a jumper box, Sears returned mine
 

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Unless you're building a cage on the trail, you should'nt need to charge the batteries mid- repair. Lots of people wring their hands over the dangers of ruining batteries when welding, but when hooked up right (all in seiries) and with proper connections (using jumper cables will fry a post pronto-ask me how I know- use dedicated welding leads with soldered on ring terminals and marine style battery post connectors with the wing nut, including from battery to battery) you can weld a long time without having to recharge the batteries, and it's not that detrimental to them. Still using the same 2 Optimas after 3 years.

Also, I prefer to use Optimas or other non-vented , non spillable type batteries to prevent explosions from the hydrogen gas that regular car batteries produce.

But yes, by all means, remove the batteries from the rig to weld with them.
 

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Steve---Back in 1988 on the sand dunes of Yuma,AZ I did a fix on a Jeep using 2 batteries and 3/32 6011 rod I believe. Both batteries were taken out of the rigs. The power level was not adjustable of course so it welded real hot. Penetration was not a problem. I think I had the tip on negative polarity.
 
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