He said he already did it - lolShaker said:I would hardly doubt that you could push hard enough and take any metal out...try and see.....key important thing....need to keep it straight..
jaybirdd said:I bought one of those snap on reamers for the shop, found out about $45.00 later that it's junk-not typical snap on! They're designed to be turned by hand, they don't last behind power tools!
peesalot said:This was on a brand new hi-steer arm from NWF for a Dana 60.
I had to cut quite a bit , and it does cut fairly well by hand with lots of wd40.
I'd say about 40 min. of work. I was gonna pul the arm and use drill press but ream would not chuck up so it away I went. I am doing the pitman next and will try it on buddies bigger drill press and report back.
FWIW I think a 3/8 ratchet is to fast and not able to controll pressure well.
I was pleasantly suprised that it worked so I thought I'd post it.
Yes there was a descrepancy from the part drawing to the CNC - thanks for the feedback, all the nessesary changes have since been made. We would have warrantied the part and replaced the arm had I heard about it ahead of time. Glad to hear that you have it all working, and yes the two differing sizes of TRE vs. DLE can be very confusing.peesalot said:Yup , I found that out. You also don't cut the pocket for the kingpin spring deep enough , arm would not even tighten down to knuckle all the way due to spring bind till I had it machined deeper( mic it to the depth of a stock spring cap and see if I'm lyin ? )
The countersinks on the holes were , well , not very deep to say it nicely , had to have those cut so a tapered nut would seat proper.
I like the arm and it was my first dana 60 so I wish I woulda spent more time on phone with you guys hashing these details out.
I think we can handle thatpeesalot said:Another feedback point , for those with shock or coil over mounts close to or on the inner C the arm is very , very tight clearance at full left steer.
Could you send me some stickers for the trouble![]()