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Discussion Starter #1
You can ream a tie rod hole out to a drag link hole using the R121 reamer by hand while still on truck . Not the best solution but worked . went thru some cervesa doing it tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No , No , I mean by hand , not hand drill , by hand . Straight grab it push and turn and keep doing it.
 

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I would hardly doubt that you could push hard enough and take any metal out...try and see.....key important thing....need to keep it straight..
 

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Shaker said:
I would hardly doubt that you could push hard enough and take any metal out...try and see.....key important thing....need to keep it straight..
He said he already did it - lol
 

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I bought one of those snap on reamers for the shop, found out about $45.00 later that it's junk-not typical snap on! They're designed to be turned by hand, they don't last behind power tools!
 

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jaybirdd said:
I bought one of those snap on reamers for the shop, found out about $45.00 later that it's junk-not typical snap on! They're designed to be turned by hand, they don't last behind power tools!

I agree. Spend you coin on a quality one from a machine tooling company. The one from Snap-On is not really top shelf, just a top shelf name.

-Dan
 

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It sounds like it got the job done for him. It's pretty cool that that works to because if you don't have a right angle drill, it can be hard to get the drill in there without taking the knuckles off. This is the kind of post that helps people out, real first hand experience, on a simple project lots of people want to try at home.
 

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I have used mine with a 3/8 air ratchet. Not too fast, but better than cranking by hand.

That said I would not recomend it. Too slow, dulls to easy, and does not want to cut steel pitman arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This was on a brand new hi-steer arm from NWF for a Dana 60.
I had to cut quite a bit , and it does cut fairly well by hand with lots of wd40.
I'd say about 40 min. of work. I was gonna pul the arm and use drill press but ream would not chuck up so it away I went. I am doing the pitman next and will try it on buddies bigger drill press and report back.
FWIW I think a 3/8 ratchet is to fast and not able to controll pressure well.
I was pleasantly suprised that it worked so I thought I'd post it.
 

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peesalot said:
This was on a brand new hi-steer arm from NWF for a Dana 60.
I had to cut quite a bit , and it does cut fairly well by hand with lots of wd40.
I'd say about 40 min. of work. I was gonna pul the arm and use drill press but ream would not chuck up so it away I went. I am doing the pitman next and will try it on buddies bigger drill press and report back.
FWIW I think a 3/8 ratchet is to fast and not able to controll pressure well.
I was pleasantly suprised that it worked so I thought I'd post it.

We're you reaming it out for the larger size 2027/6 (.791") ends ? These 'draglink' type GM ends have a larger taper than the TRE's we use, although they're both '1-ton'. We ream the arm for TRE's which are .773".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yup , I found that out. You also don't cut the pocket for the kingpin spring deep enough , arm would not even tighten down to knuckle all the way due to spring bind till I had it machined deeper( mic it to the depth of a stock spring cap and see if I'm lyin ? )
The countersinks on the holes were , well , not very deep to say it nicely , had to have those cut so a tapered nut would seat proper.
I like the arm and it was my first dana 60 so I wish I woulda spent more time on phone with you guys hashing these details out.
 

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peesalot said:
Yup , I found that out. You also don't cut the pocket for the kingpin spring deep enough , arm would not even tighten down to knuckle all the way due to spring bind till I had it machined deeper( mic it to the depth of a stock spring cap and see if I'm lyin ? )
The countersinks on the holes were , well , not very deep to say it nicely , had to have those cut so a tapered nut would seat proper.
I like the arm and it was my first dana 60 so I wish I woulda spent more time on phone with you guys hashing these details out.
Yes there was a descrepancy from the part drawing to the CNC - thanks for the feedback, all the nessesary changes have since been made. We would have warrantied the part and replaced the arm had I heard about it ahead of time. Glad to hear that you have it all working, and yes the two differing sizes of TRE vs. DLE can be very confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another feedback point , for those with shock or coil over mounts close to or on the inner C the arm is very , very tight clearance at full left steer.
Could you send me some stickers for the trouble:D
 
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