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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a leak where the bottom radiator hose clamps onto the radiator. The part that the hose slides over, has a crack or something just as it meats the bottom structural metal frame of the radiator. (the part that the drain plug is in on the passenger side)

My question is this. How do I seal a leak in that area of the radiator? I know how to stop a leak in the actual core (where the cooling fins are), but not sure how to attack this leak.
 

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JB Weld it!

That'll only be a temp fix though, and it'll probably fail again when you're 20 miles in the backcountry. New radiators are cheap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my wife would say not cheap enough...

JB Weld huh? Good start, anyone else have any suggestions?

What about brazing?

Will the radiator stop leak products work on this application?
 

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Wicked Raciest !
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You can try and solder it. If is an actual crack in the tank you should drill a small hole at the end of the crack. It is not an easy job to solder it but it can be done. Those stop leak products are a quick fix that you pay for in the long run, one problem is they usually settle in the heater core and clog it up. If you try one get Alum-Seal it seems to work the best. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

[ 09-26-2001: Message edited by: OOPS ]
 

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<FONT COLOR="Red"> Solder it. I get the best results soldering radiators using a small butane torch. The flame is hot enough to easily work the lead but not too big to cause the whole mess to "slide off" on the ground. Don't forget to use flux. </FONT c>
 

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Don't bother with the epoxy, it will only make a mess you'll have to clean off later when you decide to repair it with solder.

The right way to do it (besides replace) would be to remove the radiator from the truck. CLEAN the f#$% out of the cracked area and scuff it up real good with some sand paper. Buy some 50/50 Silver solder... not the cheapy stuff. Slick is right, don't forget the flux. Buy a small seperate container of it.

Brian
 

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If it were my leak I would use acid core solder and propane torch.
 

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savage
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your repair on your allready played-out rad fails and causes your truck to overheat and blow a head gasket - $big bucks$

new radiator to prevent this - $100 or so, I just got one locally for my 83, it was $90. About the same price as a head gasket set....
 

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First, do not use any kind of epoxy it will not hold. Second, silver solder (or brazing) requires much heat and will melt the surrounding solder. If the crack is in the tank where the neck is soldered, then the way that I repair it at my shop is by sand blasting the area around the neck, then tinning the area and soldering a brass support ring over the area around the neck. Just soldering the crack will never hold, you have to patch it. A normal "clean and repair" at my radiator shop is $35, there should be a shop in your area that can repair this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by scottz:
<STRONG>your repair on your allready played-out rad fails and causes your truck to overheat and blow a head gasket - $big bucks$

new radiator to prevent this - $100 or so, I just got one locally for my 83, it was $90. About the same price as a head gasket set....</STRONG>
First of all, you are assuming my radiator is already played-out. For all you know, this may be a new $300 4 core radiator that was damaged while wheeling.

And secondly, I know my truck. I know it like the back of my hand. There is no way the motor would get hot enough to cause problems unless I willingly let it. When there is a problem it whispers in my ear.

<STRONG>First, do not use any kind of epoxy it will not hold. Second, silver solder (or brazing) requires much heat and will melt the surrounding solder. If the crack is in the tank where the neck is soldered, then the way that I repair it at my shop is by sand blasting the area around the neck, tinning the area and soldering a brass support ring over the area around the neck. Just soldering the crack will never hold, you have to patch it. A normal "clean and repair" at my radiator shop is $35, there should be a shop in your area that can repair this</STRONG>
Thanks for that info Chuck. This is definitely one for the archives.
 
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