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Discussion Starter #1
1991 bronco thats getting a little cut off of it......

had an idea in my head about the length of these......got them on there not so sure now......... 38" long from frame mount to axle mount. want to keep it low as possible so im using stock coils. the axle hits the engine crossmember before the arms even come close to the frame. 4" or so up travel...... could get 5" before the axle brackets hit the frame, but not the arms

looking for suggestions before i make it too permanant. do plan on boxing/beefing them up a lot.


yeah yeah, the tires were free
balistic joint on frame side



before i cut some off....

and for the next question......
the axle end heim seems to have enough travel being at that odd angle...... see any other problems other than the dana 44?


im going to run the steering as is to see how it works, then decide whether or not to scrap it.

thanks
 

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do the rad. arms match on both sides?

If so, it probably will not flex worth a shit.


Imagine taking several peices of wood, and nailing them together in a "C" shape (just like your axle with radius arms attached).
Now, hold the "radius arm" wood in ones place, and try to twist the front board. It will bind, correct? Check out F250rollinon37's build. His arms are the best way to go.

that style works good on TTB, but its going to blow on your setup.

take the upper peice of square tube on the radius arms, and put a flex joint or bushing ON the arm, like this:

 

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Looks to me the only thing you would gain by adding that joint would be ability to adjust pinion angle. Adjusting the length of the upper rod would be the only time that joint would do anything. It's a triangle. Triangles don't move! My suggestion would be to leave that arm alone and remove the upper link on the other radius arm. Do some reading on 'wristed' arms. That would essentially be what you would end up with.

As for your steering, etc. I see a couple problems. Your drag link is much longer than your track bar. Can we say bumpsteer? Also with that setup, your toe will change constantly as the suspension travels. That setup works fine for the TTB, but not for a straight axle. You will at some point need to go with crossover-type setup like everybody else runs with a straight axle.
 

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As for your steering, etc. I see a couple problems. Your drag link is much longer than your track bar. Can we say bumpsteer? Also with that setup, your toe will change constantly as the suspension travels. That setup works fine for the TTB, but not for a straight axle. You will at some point need to go with crossover-type setup like everybody else runs with a straight axle.
Naw, that shit don't work so great on the TTB either (you have heard they can wear out tires real quick when lifted, right? :flipoff2: )

That type of linkage is extremely unforgiving of any angle, it has to be damn near dead-horizontal to work acceptably, and even then it's still a compromise. A drop pitman arm would level it out some from where it is now, although you'd then need to have your trackbar level at the same time too. It'd be far easier & better to put a straight tierod & draglink on it with your solid axle.

Agreed on the RAs, remove the top link on the passengerside so it's just a link with single bushings at both ends, and it should work fine then.
Also what wall thickness square tube is that stuff? (should be at least .180", .250" would be better). Something tells me it's thinner than that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so the 16 ga. tube wont work? :D
its .250" wall, going to box them in and i have some .250" strap to weld on the bottoms. should hold up fine?

got the upper link off of the pass side already.

changed the track bar location a bit


as far as steering goes...... its on there....its free......if its too bad (obvious that it wont be perfect) its not like im out anything.

as for rear springs...... how bad are they about axle wrap when flipped around? center pin towards the rear?

 

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As far as the steering goes, u can have that flat top knuckle on the passenger side milled and tapped for crossover steering pretty reasonably.
 

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as far as steering goes...... its on there....its free....
Yep, those are the two most important criteria for a steering system.:shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
if i was going desert race the thing or drive on the street id be concerned.

the change in toe durring suspension travel crawling on the rocks, or wheeling where/how i do isnt going to cause any safety issues that i can see...... some less than desireable steering quirks at most, but its not like its going to fall apart.

but glad you guys care :D
 

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Hey Tim, I have some chromoly tubing we can use on your steering that's free. Hit me up on KrawlTex and we'll sort it out.

-AK
 

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Looks to me the only thing you would gain by adding that joint would be ability to adjust pinion angle. Adjusting the length of the upper rod would be the only time that joint would do anything. It's a triangle.
:shaking: you ditch the upper link on ONE SIDE. the flex joint makes it flex. try it. you will learn something...:shaking:noob.


check out F250rollinon37's build. he did it. and it works very well. along with several others. The joint has nothing to do with the pinion angle. it has to do with the axle binding. even if you had one arm like it is, and one without the upper link... it still binds a little.



id change that steering...
 

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Know you're not asking about this, but what are you planning for a crossmember? With how hacked it is, you'd be ahead to just build a custom one otherwise it'll just twist itself all up and crack.

Justin
 

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Know you're not asking about this, but what are you planning for a crossmember? With how hacked it is, you'd be ahead to just build a custom one otherwise it'll just twist itself all up and crack.

Justin
thats what i was thinking

oh ya and fix your steering
 

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:shaking: you ditch the upper link on ONE SIDE.
That is exactly what I said! I said to leave the arm in the picture alone and remove the upper link from the OTHER side. Go back and read my post again.

the flex joint makes it flex. try it. you will learn something...:shaking:noob.
No, a rubber/poly bushing on BOTH arms would allow it to flex without binding as much as solid. A flex joint on the arms allows NO movement and would cause it to bind just as bad as if he had no joints in it at all. Either way, it wouldn't perform as well as leaving the one side solid and removing the upper link on the other side.
 

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No, a rubber/poly bushing on BOTH arms would allow it to flex without binding as much as solid. A flex joint on the arms allows NO movement and would cause it to bind just as bad as if he had no joints in it at all. Either way, it wouldn't perform as well as leaving the one side solid and removing the upper link on the other side.
........no
 

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Discussion Starter #19
took the upper link off of one side..... we'll see how it works.
plated one arm with .125" plate on the sides and .250" on the bottom. hopefully it will survive.

kinda looks crappy in the pic.....

as for the crossmember, im going to have to cut more out of it, so when thats all done i may beef it up or just build another. hmmmm maybe brace it up with the steering thats on there.....:D

yeah you guys win on the steering....... i knew it wasnt ideal......
 
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