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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I am getting several pm's end e-mails about my setup, hope this helps.

This approach was a bit easier than the E350, with killer results.

A great E350 write-up from Lopy is on this link:


For background, YJ, 60 front dual piston caliper, 14 bolt rear, (3/4 ton Chevy fronts, single piston).







After converting the rear to disk brakes, the stock MC was really having to do double shift to stop the rig. I compared both E350 and Dodge MC master cylinders, and test fit both on a YJ stock booster and a TJ stock booster. The Dodge seemed like a closer fit, and easier to lightly modify.

I used a 99 and up Dodge RAM 2500 (I believe the 3500 is the same part), and with killer results! Can lock 40" tires without any problems. I think even when the Jeep had 31" tires I was never able to stop this fast!

info copied from my build thread:

Got the Ram 2500 MC, about $70 at my door in one day, not bad at all :) kragen.com or rockauto.com. shop around.

After doing the 14 bolt disc brake conversion, my stock MC did not have enough juice for the front dual piston calipers, and the rear calipers. I could lock the 40’s with a couple pumps or standing on the brake pedal, so not ideal. I looked at a few options for the upgrade, either a E350 MC or a Dodge Ram 2500.

The E350 needs minor modifications to work on the rig, but will also require reflaring a few lines, or adaptors. The Dodge Ram 2500 is a straight forward almost bolt on for a TJ, but it will not directly fit on a YJ booster flange. PIcs of the Ram 2500 and TJ booster below:

Picture of the Dodge Ram 2500 MC compared to a TJ stock MC.



The next change will be extending the booster push rod. Here is a pic of the stock push rod screw. It has enough length that it could just be pushed all the way out. I gota bigger grade 8 bolt at the hardware store I will modify (cut head and grid to fit MC).



Mocking up the setup:




I was planning to use a TJ booster, however the booster is longer than the YJ, so once the MC is mounted, it would not clear the hood. One option is to fabricate the booster mount bringing it closer to the firewall, and relocate the clutch slave reservoir which would interfere.

I went with another option, modifying the MC to fit the YJ booster. It required minor grinding of the RAM MC flange until it fit the YJ booster. If doing this approach, grind carefully the excess material until it fits. I need to make some lines with new fittings as the YJ’s are slightly different. To clarify, teh TJ lines will bolt on. I am contemplating using the stock TJ lines from the stcok TJ MC to the stock TJ proportioning valve, rather than having to deal with a lot of bending and reflarring of lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Got the Ram 2500 MC, about $70 at my door in one day, not bad at all :)

After doing the 14 bolt disc brake conversion, my stock MC did not have enough juice for the front dual piston calipers, and the rear calipers. I could lock the 40’s with a couple pumps or standing on the brake pedal, so not ideal. I looked at a few options for the upgrade, either a E350 MC or a Dodge Ram 2500.

The E350 needs minor modifications to work on the rig, but will also require reflaring a few lines, or adaptors. The Dodge Ram 2500 is a straight forward almost bolt on for a TJ, but it will not directly fit on a YJ booster flange. PIcs of the Ram 2500 and TJ booster below:

Picture of the Dodge Ram 2500 MC compared to a TJ stock MC.



The next change will be extending the booster push rod. Here is a pic of the stock push rod screw. It has enough length that it could just be pushed all the way out. I gota bigger grade 8 bolt at the hardware store I will modify (cut head and grid to fit MC).



Mocking up the setup:




I was planning to use a TJ booster, however the booster is longer than the YJ, so once the MC is mounted, it would not clear the hood. One option is to fabricate the booster mount bringing it closer to the firewall, and relocate the clutch slave reservoir which would interfere.

I went with another option, modifying the MC to fit the YJ booster. It required minor grinding of the RAM MC flange until it fit the YJ booster. If doing this approach, grind carefully the excess material until it fits. I need to make some lines with new fittings as the YJ’s are slightly different. To clarify, teh TJ lines will bolt on. I am contemplating using the stock TJ lines from the stcok TJ MC to the stock TJ proportioning valve, rather than having to deal with a lot of bending and reflarring of lines.
 

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D-FENS
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is the TJ booster the same as the '95 YJ dual diaphram booster at the master cylinder mating surface? are they the same booster with different mounts?


if i read this right though, you ended up using the single diaphram YJ booster with the Dodge MC and it works great, no?

do you know the size of the pistons in the ford calipers?
 

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This thread reminds me I need to order that Master Cylinder, because (hopefully) the HP60/14B with 4 discs all around will be under the Jeep sooner rather than later :rolleyes:
 

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Just to add more to this thread.

I bought a new one at Auto Zone. Part number is NM 3060 for a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500. It bolted right up with plenty of clearance. I extended the push rod with the 1/4x28 bolt. I chopped the head off and rounded the end. My new MC came with a new res and a bleeder kit!:grinpimp: I can bench bleed the MC now without a mess!!





and I have tons of clearance up to the hood.

 

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I used the same MC on my 88 YJ. I ended up using the single diaphragm booster, new from Napa. The adjusting rod was too long when I got it. I turned it in all the way in and it worked out nicely. I have the same brake setup as geberhard. I ran all new lines. Bend and flared them all. The MC cap just touches the hood though. I have not seen any issues thus far. Brakes work good enough to stop. I think I have a big air bubble in my rear hand brakes still…
 

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D-FENS
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i just put this same set-up on my project jeep. in order to get it under the hood i flipped the booster upside down. i cant think of any reason this would cause problems but is there any reason it wont work like this?
 

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Mr. Personality
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i just put this same set-up on my project jeep. in order to get it under the hood i flipped the booster upside down. i cant think of any reason this would cause problems but is there any reason it wont work like this?
It shouldnt affect its operation.. but why are you having hood clearance problems? Did you get the MC with the BigMcLargeHuge reservoir or the normal sized reservoir? I havent had my hood on my TJ in several years, but back when I first did this mod, it cleared the hood fine.

Part #'s and info here -

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105116&highlight=dodge+m/c
 

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D-FENS
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sorry, i left some details out. mines a yj tub and frame with a cj front clip. the hood may or may not be as high as it was from the factory but should be really close. i sectioned my grill and set the hood where it followed the body lines well.

im using the same dodge 2500 master as geberhard did in this thread and a YJ dual diaphram booster.
 

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I am doing a yj brake booster in my 83 cj....if i used this MC from a dodge 2500 can i reuse my stock proportioning valve??? Id like to be able to just do the swap and leave all my lines alone if that is possible....
 

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Yeah, thanks man. This is really helpful. This is what Pirate is all about, people helping people...
Anyway, has anybody done this to an XJ? Is it the same or are there any tricks?
 

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nice thread. i just picked up a MC out of a 2500 ram van it looks just like this except the resy is alot lower profile. I'm going to try and fit it on my 04 rubi to help stop the 1500 ram rotors and calipers im running. i hope it fits/works it was only $10 from the u pull it.

If not I might try and run a yj booster and ram truck booster like your set up.
 

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I've been working with a MC from a 1991 Dodge D150 pickup in an effort to install it on my CJ7 with a YJ booster. The hardest thing i've experienced is the odd sized outlet ports ....and where to get fittings for 'em.
the front is a deep 9/16" x20 and the rear is a deep 1/2" x 20. What i'm learning is that those size fittings aren't used with 1/4 line and 3/16" line respectively.
Are y'all having to deal with those sized fittings with that newer MC?...if so, how?


thx,
Steve

fyi- it's a 1 1/8 bore MC that requires a little grinding on the ears to fit the booster.
 

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Can anyone else vouch for the 78 F250 option for a YJ booster? Does it lock up the tires with discs all around? And when you say "bolt up" are you talking about the line fittings too?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been working with a MC from a 1991 Dodge D150 pickup in an effort to install it on my CJ7 with a YJ booster. The hardest thing i've experienced is the odd sized outlet ports ....and where to get fittings for 'em.
the front is a deep 9/16" x20 and the rear is a deep 1/2" x 20. What i'm learning is that those size fittings aren't used with 1/4 line and 3/16" line respectively.
Are y'all having to deal with those sized fittings with that newer MC?...if so, how?


thx,
Steve

fyi- it's a 1 1/8 bore MC that requires a little grinding on the ears to fit the booster.
Steve,

I have had good luck with local good auto parts stores as far as fittings and adapters. Also check out speedwaymotors.com

Some places also sell the Do it yourself kits so you can flare your own lines and ends. good luck.
 
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