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Discussion Starter #22
I'll post a DWG/DXF for the side plates and a print for the frame one I know it works. I'm going to try and transfer over all the positions of the body mounts once I get the tub on the rails ( to the CAD info ).

It would be specific to the MB/GPW bodies, but I think I can integrate some slots/tabs into the side plates for the body mounts. That would let someone build a fairly accurate frame from the start without having to have an old one to start with. Hopefully that will help people make lots of 'new' flat fenders using aftermarket bodies!
 

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I'll post a DWG/DXF for the side plates and a print for the frame one I know it works. I'm going to try and transfer over all the positions of the body mounts once I get the tub on the rails ( to the CAD info ).

It would be specific to the MB/GPW bodies, but I think I can integrate some slots/tabs into the side plates for the body mounts. That would let someone build a fairly accurate frame from the start without having to have an old one to start with. Hopefully that will help people make lots of 'new' flat fenders using aftermarket bodies!
That would be awesome! Thank you!
 

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wow sure would be awesome to get the CAD for your frame; that would help me out immensly! btw the high-line hood idea is awesome! Cant wait to see how this turns out!! Youve got my attention. BTW did you widen the distance between your frame rails? what axles are you going to be using and what size tires? Your sticking with the buick V6 -alot of old and new technolgy this is gonna be great
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The custom gear isn't too big of a deal. It has been running that way for who knows how many years before the 8-9 years I have been running it. I'm keeping the 225 Buick so no big power. Tera-low isn't in the budget.

I like the super short adapter....The driveline is about 18-20" long on an 80" wheelbase flat fender.

The seating position is going to be lower and more laid back.

Hopefully more soon. I have been in the middle of moving, setting up my new shop, building some new tools, etc. Too many projects to little time.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
wow sure would be awesome to get the CAD for your frame; that would help me out immensly! btw the high-line hood idea is awesome! Cant wait to see how this turns out!! Youve got my attention. BTW did you widen the distance between your frame rails? what axles are you going to be using and what size tires? Your sticking with the buick V6 -alot of old and new technolgy this is gonna be great
Hopefully the highline turns out. The front is getting a slight 1.5" stretch 'from' the raised fenders. As the fender slides up the angled portion of the tub it moves forward. Its going up about 2.75" till the bottom of the fender 'lip' is even with one of the angle changes in the grill around the headlight. Basically only the front mounting edge of the fender needs any real modifications. I still haven't decided what to do about the hood. I just don't know if its worth stretching it an inch. I have about 1/2" overhang in front I can eliminate, so that leaves an inch gap at the back....heck, it might help cooling! :)

I am making my frame stock width. I have the MB fuel tank sump in the tub so you really can't go any wider without having to cut that out. I am going to keep it, even though I am moving the fuel tank to the back.

I am keeping my D44 in the rear ( early CJ5 unit ) and building a full float conversion for it. I have a set of 27 spline drive flanges I am going to use in the back from a quadratrac CJ7. I'm keeping the 4.30 gears for a bit, but will probably change to a 30 spline locker since I have to build full float shafts anyways. I'm tempted to keep the old powr-lock and just rebuild it with 30 spline side gears....

The front end is getting updated to a narrow track open knuckle D30 with factory 4.27 gears. It was a drum brake version so its getting disc brakes that will exactly match the rear. I will probably add a set of 297 joint alloy shafts at some point.

So far, its going to get a set of 36" bias IROK's. I'm still not super sure on that....but it will be something that size.
 

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Thanks for the info now get to jeepin! I cant wait to see this. Ive been Thinking about building something similar and this could very well persuade me. I hope you stick with the highline hood and fenders -that's what caught my eye almost immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The new frame is designed around using the longer rear springs in the front and the back. I'm planning on using some 1" superlift versions. I also pushed the spring mounts for a very mild stretch....

This is just a simple vehicle. I didn't want to over complicate it with a linked suspension. At the really low ride height a simple SUA leaf spring works great to keep the height down.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I had to drag some stuff home last Saturday to help with the build....



I picked up a used 4x8 welding table and a new engine hoist since I had to return my loaner after moving.

The table has a nice 3/8" thick top. I need to get out a long level and see how flat I can get it. I hope the table will allow me to build the frame nice and true. I will probably be cutting the legs down on the table and making it adjustable in height. I figure a lower height table will be nice later in the build....

I think I am going to have to do a little shuffling to build the frame, pull the tub off the old chassis, remove the engine, and start putting stuff back together.

I hope being able to build the jeep on a nice flat table should make things turn out a little better in the end.....

Hopefully the frame is going to get assembled this weekend.....I already have the parts on the table. I am just trying to work out a way to clamp and hold everything down.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Today I started putting together the new frame....



First thing I did after I checked that the table was level 'enough' was to lay out all the main rail parts. Since they are symmetrical I was able to lay them out 'top to top' and everything wanted to nest together pretty good without too many clamps. I ended up having to use some added weight to the top of the rails to get everything to lay flat. I also checked the position of the rails with the side plates. This is important for later, but basically the rails don't have to be exactly tapered and in position. You only have to have enough room for the side plates to fit on the frame...



I cleaned up the main joints with a wire brush where the tubing the forms the rails stacks on top of each other.



I tacked each rail together with some 1/2" long stitches on towards the ends.



After the rails where tacked I flipped them over and clamped them together like this. This allowed me to suck the rails back together and flat on each other once the opposite side was tacked. The tack weld will pull the rail apart slightly....



After welding the tubing on both sides together you have a frame rail....



Next I had to make up some 2" dia, 2.020" long bushings. These will help align the side plates and the frame rails to each other later on. They have a .510 hole in through the middle. Even a small lathe comes in handy at home.



Thinking ahead a little bit, I drilled some pilot holes in the front bumper on the little drill press. This should make some things easier down the road.



These are how the aluminum spacers work. They basically help keep the distance between the side plates square and exact. I used a cheap section of 6", 1/2-13 all thread and some nuts to hold the plates together.



I then laid the top of the belly section of tubing over the edge of the table. The side plates are then positioned over the frame rail. At this point the position of the side plates isn't super critical front to back as long as they have enough room. I used a dead blow to snug the side plates against the table to keep them flush with the top of the belly section of the rail. At that point I started welding the side plate to the frame tubes. I used 4" stitches of weld alternating side to side removing the clamps as I went....

 

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Discussion Starter #37
Then I flipped the rails over and welded the other side. I used the clamps to pull the joint as tight as possible.



Then I welded the 2nd rail on the top and bottom.....



Once the frame rails where welded I bolted them together with the spring hanger mounts. I was able to use the aluminum spacers at this point again. I think this keeps everything very straight and true between the left and right frame rail. At this point the rails are measured for final length and trimmed while bolted together. This makes both rails the same length and square at the ends. I think this is easier than trying to make the rails the same length during the clamping and welding process.



You can see the difference in rail length before cutting....



After cutting, both are the same length and square to each other...



After reapeating this process on the other end both rails are now the same length. The rails where then moved to the table. At this point the frame is about as heavy as I could lift comfortably.



Next I cut up the material for a rear bumper spacer, added the front bumper, and the rear bumper to the table. Next I will be laying out the frame rails square and welding in the front bumper and rear crossmember right behind where the rear bumper is to be welded on. I am going to wait to weld the rear bumper in place until I get the body tub on the frame. I am not a 100% sure where it is going to end up vertically......

First I need to weld up all the speed holes, cap the angle cuts, etc.....

More soon.....
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks.

I wish it was moving faster. I just have to keep working on it. It seems that I get the most done when I at least do something every day, even if its only working on it for like an hour....

I think I had about 6-7 hours in it today which got a good section of the frame construction done.

Hopefully this week in the evenings after work I will be able to get the frame finished enough to start pulling the engine and tub out of the old frame.
 

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you've opened the worm can now and it feels good doesn't it??? I'm just starting my 4th month on my build and am still excited about working on my flatty, you just need to keep your head to the grind stone and remember any progress is good no matter how little---looks great by the way....chris
 
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