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Discussion Starter · #681 ·
Tonight I also got the carb back on the intake and did some retuning....

Lesson learned: If you have a vacuum leak, or even think you do, fix it!

With the pesky vacuum leak eliminated under the carb, adapter, and intake I started to tune the carb in again. I am going old school and generally using the autometer vacuum gauge I have installed in the dash ( GREAT IDEA on a carbureted engine! ), my tach, and my ear....

I started by resetting the idle mixture screws to two turns out. I think it works better to be a little rich at idle to start with rather than too lean.

Idle speed was set at about 750rpm

The engine is brought up to full operating temperature on the rich setting.

Once the engine was up to temp I slowly started turning the idle mixture screws in an 1/8 turn at a time on each screw. I noted the vacuum reading with each adjustment. I stopped after the 1st adjustment where I saw no change. This was max vacuum plus 1/8 turn in. For me and my engine this was a rock solid 15" of vacuum on the gauge. There was NO needle bounce this time....none.....

I VERY slightly advanced my base timing at this point causing a slightly idle speed increase.....but no pinging. The vaccum reading SLIGHTY increased. I probably would have tried more advance but ran out of adjustment room. That HEI is TIGHT in there. I will probably need to jump back a tooth and reset base timing again.

Then I lowered the idle speed down to 550-600rpm. At this point I tried one more idle mixture adjustment but didn't see a vacuum increase going 1/8 turn either way so I left the idle mixture alone at this point.

All in all this is the best tune I have seen on the engine so far. All my odd-fire idle roughness went away. The vacuum gauge is ROCK steady at 15". That may sound a little low but I live at 7000ft. The motor just purrs at a 550-600rpm idle......it has never done that before.

Drive-ability is also better than it has ever been. No stumble that I can detect. It's not super 'snappy' really, but it has a 50lb+ flywheel so I am not holding my breath on that one. Power seems good overall. idle to 3000 is great. 3000-4000 is fair. 4000+ starts to feel a bit flat.

I did a little bit of testing in low range 2wd. I don't know if its good or bad but I could NOT stall the motor with the brakes? The front tires just skid and the rear brakes get overridden by the engine. It usually alternates side to side through the Powr-Lok diff. Kinda odd. The engine was pulling down into the 300-400rpm range but that is as low as it would go?

All in all VERY happy!

I think I had an intake leak under the carb AND under the carb adapter.

Now that I have it running sweet I have a few mods I want to try on the carb for better off road performance......
 

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Discussion Starter · #682 ·
Evening test drive....

Opposite lock drifting on loose gravel around a 180 degree hairpin corner isn't as fun as it sounds......good thing I was going uphill. That little ditch on the outside really slowed me down luckily.

A light jeep, big wide tires with a little too much air, a rear Powr-Lok and a good bit more power than before made for an interesting drive!

All in all the carb tuning paid off. It wasn't a fluke. The engine fired right up after sitting for 24 hours or more with just a tap of the accelerator pedal. The idle is nice and clean at 550-600rpm with 15-15.5" of vacuum. The engine temp seemed stable in the 170-190 range for the most part. I didn't try and push it for a long time, like the gentle up canyon drive in 4th gear at 45 home coming home from work. In general I think the engine runs a little bit cooler than before but that might be a stretch.

If anything the carb feels a little fat/rich now. I have #47 jets, 1.08 primary autolite 2100, 225" motor, 7000ft elevation. My gut feeling is I need to drop down the jet size or three. I should probably order up a few different sizes. With these jets being factory on a 302(ish) motor I think I will only need to go down in size? I can't imagine needing to go up with this motor currently. Is there any kind of calculation for jet size changes by elevation?

I also played around with the brake proportioning valve. I got the front brakes dialed in a little bit more now. It seems to stop much better but still locks up the rear tires on gravel first with the weight transfer?

Anyways....fun....
 

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Discussion Starter · #683 ·
It is drive your Willys to work friday again...

I think if I had a transmission and transfer case I trusted more I would drive it to work every day! I think now I am starting to get a lot of the bugs ironed out and its really starting to be enjoyable to drive.

Things that I noticed today...

-The new steering ratio is for sure a little quicker. Having all my steering side to side is nice. Now its starting to feel like a short wheelbase maneuverable vehicle.

-The new carb tuning seems to be paying off. I'm fairly sure its rich, but even with just the vacuum leak fixed and the idle mixture tuned it seems to have more power in the 1750-2000rpm range when driving at 45ish in 4th gear. I will be interesting to see how the trip home goes this afternoon when its warmer. All in all though I think I am getting somewhere with the engine tuning now. I didn't notice any pinging or anything with the slightly advanced timing. Light throttle cruise is in the 14" range. Part throttle ( most of my normal driving ) seem to be in the 11" range. You have to get into the throttle pretty heavy to get the powervalve to kick in. I think its working right however. Before I think with the lower vacuum I was seeing I was driving on the power valve more.....

-The transmission and t-case I just don't really trust for high speed stuff. I need to check the gear oil level again. I need to get my replacements built. I think with a nice new transmission and t-case using normal adapter parts and gears.....it should be really enjoyable to drive around. 5.38 gears will help that too. If only I had $3000 to spend today. A nice fresh T18 from Novak and a 3.15 geared D18 transfer case ( and throw in an overdrive too...why not )

-I am pretty sure I want to try and pull off an external hydraulic clutch when I swap the motor. I have the spare motor to mock things up on now. I need to get to measuring all that stuff. The novak kit for $200 seems a little ridiculous. Factory parts....just don't know. Maybe a pull type external slave from the racing market?

-The rear suspension feels better with the longer shackles. I think with two people and some gear it will be even better. I am kinda hoping the springs break in a little more. Its still a little choppy on concrete. I need to get some bumpstops on it all around for the really big bumps. I have been looking at the Belltech 4923 units. They are a foam progressive bumpstop. 2.5" dia, 2" tall. That should give me just about 2-3" uptravel before the bumpstops hit and then 2" of nice foam bumpstop. They look like a rebadged OEM unit but off what I have no idea.

-Having an extra inch of suspension height on the rear end helped the visibility a bit. Now at my normal lazy seating position I can see the end of the hood. I find it funny all the small things you notice when driving this thing.

Fun Fun.

 

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Food for thought, I have poor experience with the hydraulic clutch setup. Poor pedal response/ setup can be a pain/ tough pedal and some jeeps have a lack of feel (tire feel) I use on my jeep and purchased for current build the chain drive adaptor kit. I have had zero issues. My uncle just pulled off his hydro setup for the chain for better feel. He had to get really custom with a home made gear to gear chain adaptor to the adaptor. I will have to get some pictures of it, it really draws the crowds at the car shows as they try and figure out how it works and what it's for.
 

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I've had the exact opposite issues with my hydo clutch. I love it and swear it was one of the best mods I did. Course this is on a 1980 cj5. I used all factory 4 banger parts with the advance adapters steel braided hose. It was a breeze to install and setup. I've had zero issues with it and now my wife can drive it.

That being said, from what I've read on here, you either love it or hate it. I haven't heard of a chain conversion before, sounds interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #686 ·
My hydro clutch functions well......it just weeps fluid, is very hard to work on because its an internal slave, and has some slight issues with contact on the pressure plate.

When I change transmissions I will probably change to some kind of external clutch slave cylinder if I can find enough room.
 

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the chain is an old trick to fix the bell crank that would bind an fall out when you get an old jeep really twisted
 

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just happen to have one. one of the few things AA has that i like
 

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Discussion Starter · #689 ·
old school cool! I remember those things....
 

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Mieser, if you're interested i can show you the pictures of the hydraulic clutch setup on my jeep.

Uses stuff from a mid-80's nissan truck.

And that chain conversion looks relatively easy to fab up yourself
 

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And that chain conversion looks relatively easy to fab up yourself
i've been thinking about making one, i have craploads of extra bike parts around.

whats stopping me... is that the clutch linkage is one of the few stock parts that i find to work perfectly well. (so far...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #692 ·
Mieser, if you're interested i can show you the pictures of the hydraulic clutch setup on my jeep.

Uses stuff from a mid-80's nissan truck.

And that chain conversion looks relatively easy to fab up yourself
Sure. I like pictures.

I don't really have room for much in general. That is why I went with the internal slave cylinder in the 1st place. Generally everything is above the bottom of the frame or REALLY close to it. That only leaves me a 4-5" tall cavity for the exhaust, bellhousing, clutch fork, fuel line, brake lines, etc.
 

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Sure. I like pictures.

I don't really have room for much in general. That is why I went with the internal slave cylinder in the 1st place. Generally everything is above the bottom of the frame or REALLY close to it. That only leaves me a 4-5" tall cavity for the exhaust, bellhousing, clutch fork, fuel line, brake lines, etc.
Mines even less than that, wider bellhousing for the 289, not to mention the factory exhaust manifold, clutch fork arm, etc.

I routed my brake lines and fuel lines through the frame, though, so..
 

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Discussion Starter · #694 ·
Mines even less than that, wider bellhousing for the 289, not to mention the factory exhaust manifold, clutch fork arm, etc.

I routed my brake lines and fuel lines through the frame, though, so..
But is your engine, transmission, and t-case basically level with the bottom of the frame? My clutch fork is basically in the same location as my right foot. I think the clutch fork is almost above the level of the floor when installed. That is why I went with an internal system.

I don't think the SBF bellhousing is any wider than a 90 degree GM pattern?

Post some pictures of what you have. I would like to check it out.
 

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the slave on my toyota is pretty small... and external i dont know if itll match up throw wise. its a 4 cyl 22re im not sure if the v6s use a different slave
 

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But is your engine, transmission, and t-case basically level with the bottom of the frame? My clutch fork is basically in the same location as my right foot. I think the clutch fork is almost above the level of the floor when installed. That is why I went with an internal system.

I don't think the SBF bellhousing is any wider than a 90 degree GM pattern?

Post some pictures of what you have. I would like to check it out.
I had to pull the engine over the winter JUST to get the old clutch fork out, lol

I'll head out into the garage here in a few minutes and snap you some pictures

And you can also do the puller type and have the puller farther down the transmission, to save space
 

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Discussion Starter · #697 ·
the slave on my toyota is pretty small... and external i dont know if itll match up throw wise. its a 4 cyl 22re im not sure if the v6s use a different slave
I think AA uses some toyota parts on there hydro conversions?

I'm basically fighting for enough space for the clutch fork. Whatever actuates it is step two :)

I have my 2nd complete mockup engine so that should be nice to mock things up on! Now that the vehicle is assembled it is a LOT easier to build parts on the backup engine and then just transfer them over.

Does anyone know of a T18/T19 factory transmission, Ford maybe, that used a factory internal slave system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #698 ·
I had to pull the engine over the winter JUST to get the old clutch fork out, lol

I'll head out into the garage here in a few minutes and snap you some pictures

And you can also do the puller type and have the puller farther down the transmission, to save space
Thanks, pics would be good!

I thought about doing a puller but my passenger side exhaust crosses under the bellhousing just in front of the transmission and then into the merge collector. All this happens right in the same area as where the 'pull' type slave would need to go I think?
 

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Heres some pictures.

A PO fabbed up the piece of steel that follows the contour of the bellhousing. It's held on with 3 of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine.

The slave is from an 85' nissan truck, and so is the master. I have the dust boots off because i over-extended the piston out of the master cyl housing..








The soft line looks like it actually hits the manifold, but it's about an inch and a half away.

The clutch fork had to be cut and re-welded so that the push rod coming out of the master was actually parallel with the transmission.. Longer clutch fork = more torque = less foot pain.

When i was driving it around, i never had any issues with the clutch, aside from some minor transmission issues.


And, McLeod makes an entire hydraulic clutch kit w/ hydraulic throwout bearing for ford transmissions.

As far as factory goes, i have no clue. Maybe the ford T5 had one, and it might be able to be adapted, but otherwise.. no clue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #700 ·
I've been playing around with some mods on my autolite 2100 to hopefully make it work even better....

When I rebuilt the carb I noticed that I had a few different options in the kit for the top cover gasket.....



This is the one that fit. Notice the hole at the back of the bowl and the large window cut out over the float.



This one almost fit. The rear holes don't line up. I was looking at the gasket thinking that the three holes might be a better idea. Basically, on an autolite/motorcraft 2100 the gasket could provide a baffle between the fuel in the fuel bowl and the vent tubes in the carb top. My autolite has two identical vent tubes that are in the rear corners of the bowl.

In the version that fits the carb there is a fairly direct path for the fuel to slosh through the gasket that fits. In the version that didn't fit ( because of the bolt pattern ) the fuel sloshing would have to take a longer path from the bowl and out of the vents.

So, why not improve it even more.....



I cut a piece of flat gasket material and used the gasket that fit to make a template.



A little silver sharpie and I had a nice outline. You just have to remember what side of the line to cut on for the best fit.



After a few minutes on the couch with a plywood scrap base and a razor blade I had this.



Here is version 1.0 of my new slosh-proofer autolite 2100 wiz bang top cover gasket. The thinking behind is that in order for the fuel to slosh out of the bowl through the vents it has to travel the maximum distance possible. The vent hole in the gasket is at the forward part of the bowl. On a steep up hills the fuel bowl has to be totally full, far beyond normal float level I hope. I can't quite predict how the float act with high nose up carb angles but I am working on a way to test that. This should also help keep the fuel from just randomly bouncing and sloshing out of the bowl when going over rough roads better than the original gasket I think.

Going down hill the vents are at the rear of the bowl so it should be nearly impossible for fuel to slosh out the vents. Having the fuel slosh away from the jets is another thing....working on that. One other thing that the 2100 has going for it is that the jets are both in the bottom middle of the bowl. This SHOULD keep the jets in fuel more often than your typical Holley jet location up on the side of the bowl and farther apart from each other.

The size of the vents is another area I am working on. Your typical Holley fuel bowl has a vent tube less than 1/4" in diameter I think? My autolite has two .390 diameter vents! I don't see why these can't be reduced in diameter significantly to help with the rate at which fuel can slosh out of the bowl, or run out of the bowl into the throat at steep nose up angles?

One of my other favorite things about the autolite is that the carb design has no gasket under the fuel in the bowl ( other then the power valve and accelerator pump which are secondary ). You can pull the top off the carb and visually inspect your float level. I have found that that with the engine at 200F and shut off the engine.....most of the fuel will boil out of the bowl. Not all of it, but most of it is gone. I am adding a heat isolating gasket to help with this. The next step is a non-metal carb adapter.

With a pair of vise grips on the fuel input line you can also remove the float and needle and change out the jets without spilling a drop of fuel.

More soon....
 
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