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Discussion Starter #162
The little time consuming stuff....



This is the new headlight 'bucket' in the fender. When you raise the fender you headlight won't fit so you have to remake the front 6.5" of the fender at bit.





It was generally a pain, but came out well. My free sheetmetal brake and the edge of the table and a hammer sure came in handy! This is a little complex part for sure. it dead ends into an area of the fender around the factory battery box. That tapered cut with a tab at the end was pretty challenging.





That might help some people trying to duplicate my work. I can't really tell you all the bend angles and stuff. Most of it I just go by eye and test fit it till I get it right. The nice thing about metal is that you can generally play with it for a while without hurting much.





This isn't rocket science. I guess its almost more art. Most of the time I just wing it. If your free brake won't make a small flange close to a bend....just use the edge of the table, some scrap, a few clamps, a crescent wrench to get it started, and finally a dead blow hammer to finish it off.

If your going to spot weld the flanges drill the holes for that BEFORE you make a super complex bend.



I did the other fender also, it was much easier so far. I also extended the bottom tab to grab the first bolt on the grill. I need to add some metal to the first fender to do this same thing.



This was a total PIA. Its not my best work, but it seals up the fender and makes the structure that more rigid. This little piece took forever to get half way decent to weld in! This pretty much wore me out for the evening. I might go back out and do a similar ( simpler ) piece for the drives side later.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Looking good! Let's see a side pic, maybe with your old michelins mocked up next to it :D. (But don't spend too much time staring at it, I want to see this rear highline come together).
I only have one left for a spare on the dodge....



38-38.5" tall as it sits.





A bit too big, but gives you a pretty good idea how small a flat fender really is!
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Time for more little stuff...



I patched the drivers side headlight bucket. This little panel turned out much cleaner as the other side. I am still always learning how to do all this stuff.



I prepped the back of the hood for the stretch and new hinge. A twisted wire brush and a light touch makes fast work of it. The plan is to extend the hood 1.38" and then move the support back while adding a new hinge. I am waiting for my fancy new spot weld cutter to show up.....



I have plenty of spot welds to cut out.....



To finish off the day I started planning out the rear tub modifications. The rear tubs are going to get lifted similar to the front. This will provide more room for larger tires at a lower lift height. Nothing is really perfectly straight on this old tub, but having a big straight edge to work from helps.....



Here is the rough plan for the rear tubs. The main 'top' of the tub is going be be raised 2.63". I will be keeping the front of the tub at the same angle/slope so the tub would try and move back, just like the front fenders pushed the grill forward slightly. The top of the tub needs 2.13" removed from the top to keep the toolbox in the same location.



This taped section on top of the tub needs removed. This will allow the front of the tub to have the same slope...making the top shorter.



Since the tub is moving up 2.63" the front of the tub needs a 3.25" stretch to make up the different. Instead of going flat across the front of the tub I will be putting in a 'Z' cut so that the longitudinal line is longer than the 3.25" needed. This way there will be an part of the tub that overlaps. This will give me a place to clamp the panels together and give a reference or home location to work from...



Here is my high tech mock up 'tire' :) A 36-37" tire is about all you can fit in a Willys tub and it's going to be TIGHT. I don't want to comp cut, and I want to run a BIG tire with almost no lift.....



This is the area that is a big problem, the original Willys MB/GPW rear tool boxes on the wheel tub. They take up a lot of room. The are really cool though and I want to keep them. I hopefully have a neat trick up my sleeve on how to keep the tool boxes with bigger tires. Moving them up with the tub won't give you enough room alone.....

I started the process of removing the paint so I could find the spot welds that needed removed.....

More as soon as I get my spot weld cutter in the mail!
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Forgot a pic....




Hunting for the spot welds....
 

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i have found that dimpling the spot weld with an 1/8" drill gives the cutter point something to hold it in place
 

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Discussion Starter #168
i have found that dimpling the spot weld with an 1/8" drill gives the cutter point something to hold it in place
Good tip, thanks! I will give that a try. I sure have LOTS of spot welds to cut out, that is for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Not too much to report on tonight....



I added the 4" section to the passenger side to match the drives side. I wish I would have thought to do it from the start, but live and learn. This will allow me to grab the lowest bolt on the grill. I will also be adding a bolt on the top near the very top, this should make everything nice and strong!



I was just about to cut up the old headlight mounts and then realized if I swapped them side to side they clear unmodified! I will have to build a little bit of a funky bracket for the hold down either off the radiator mount or maybe the future front shock mount, but it should be a lot easier than trying to make a new bracket AND mount.



I had some poster board laying around so I decided to see if I could make a pattern for the hood extension piece. Since the poster board doesn't really 'stretch' it works well to develop a template on a complex curve like that. You can work the poster board down smooth to the surface to extend the taper of the hood. A little bit of marking and tape and I was ready to go.



Here you can see the funky shape at the end of the hood since its tapered. Now I need to cut this out of sheet metal and weld it to the back edge. I am thinking that the thicker 16 gauge I am using is almost as thick as the hood and hood support at the edge. I may just add the 16 gauge to the back edge and then weld in the new hinge further back. This would sure save a LOT of tedious work on the back edge of the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
I just ordered my springs. Superlift 1" lift REAR springs for all 4 corners. They showed in stock so hopefully they will show up soon. I was going to order seats but I think this will get me further in the project sooner. With the springs I can.....

-Build the u-bolt plates and get u-bolts
-Roll the axles under on the old 32s to get it rolling again
-Bolt up the rear full float spindles/hubs
-find out the rough ride height
-Figure out the shackle length and build shackles and mounts
-Come up with the final shock locations, lengths, and build mounts
-Get the steering box mounted up and linkage built
-etc etc.

It will be nice to have it rolling around again!
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I just don't know. Ordering the springs and getting the axles under it will allow me to see how much room I really have. Cardboard and CAD only go so far. With the low ride height there just isn't that much room if you don't want to poke the shocks up through the floor or lean them WAY over.

I moved the rear axle back enough that the factory MB shock mount 'mini-tub' pocket is now pretty much directly over the axle tube. I'm pretty sure being SUA with low height springs the rear axle is just about going to touch the frame on compression, it will be close for sure.

Building a shock mount outside the frame in a somewhat normal position with the narrow axles and big tires without making new shock 'pockets' in the rear tubs ( or running then through the rear floor ).

I feel stuck trying to fit about a 9-10" travel shock system under the floor. It would be nice if it didn't hang way down and get stuck every 5 seconds on the rocks. If I am going to the trouble of running decent shocks I want them to at least work fairly well. I would like to get close to a 1:1 motion ratio with the shock leverage point being as close to the tire as I can get.

We will see, I only have so much time and money for this project. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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my shocks angle forward up into the corner above the frame where the bed and the riser from the tub floor meet. with about a 15* angle i get about 14" of travel out of a 10" shock, my shocks don't hang below the axle either. if angle shocks are good for OEM's its good for me. i use rancho rs5000 shocks. 10" on the rear an 14" on the front. pulls 1100 on a 25* ramp. i use pro comp 3" yj springs because i break an average of 2 mains a year because of the twist. i tried alcans @ 850 a set and they didn't last any better than the cheap ones. in all the changes this jeep has gone thru in almost 30yrs the best one in my mind was ditching the 1 3/4" stock style springs. i been bending tin for a long time an i learn something new every time i do some. your doing nice work:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #174
If I mounted the shocks forward to the top of the tub floor riser they would be at about a 45 degree angle with only 1" lift if I am thinking of the same spot.

I don't need 14" of travel in this little guy, 10" at the tire would be more than enough.

The narrow springs are here to stay for a bit. They didn't bust in the 1st 70 years so I think it will be ok. I am not going to be pushing them THAT hard really.

I'm planning 10" travel shocks front and rear if I can get away with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #175 (Edited)
Oh the little stuff....how fun....



I cut the hood extension and started lining it up on the back of the hood. I didn't make the cut out on the back for the hinge yet. I wanted to wait to test fit that to the hinge when I get it in a few days....



Tack, bend, tack, tack, tack, bend, grind, tack, bend, tack, tack, tack....

The back edge turned out pretty good. I wire brushed the old hood metal a LOT and still got some dirty welds. I went into place pretty well though.



Then tack,tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack.......

Then I sanded it down and played with some of the high spots with a hammer and dolly. It turned out pretty decent for bare metal. A light skim coat of filler should cover it up, or I might just prime and paint it for the rugged prototype look.....
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Yours is already rolling around! I hope mine will be there in a few weeks. My springs shipped so that should help. I'm going to try and get the hood 'done' soon and move onto the rear tubs. Once those are done the sheetmetal work is pretty much finished. The tubs are going to be a pain in the rear....
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Another two hours in sheetmetal work......



Hey look! My hood is longer now! The second side went much faster and easier.



Then I decided to weld in a little 3/16" rod on the cut hood edge for the higher fender location....



Then I welded a lot...then I sanded a lot.....



This is what the final fit on the hood looks like. I think it turned out pretty good. There is just about an even 1/4" under the hood lip to the top of the fender. Not bad for a hack in a garage with a 110 welder and a 4" grinder!

I will try and finish up the rod on the other side of the hood tomorrow night. Hopefully my hinge shows up soon so I can trim the back edge of the hood for the hing and mount it! I need to remove the 2nd set of hood hold downs and patch a decent amount of holes in the hood still. Then I need to drill new holes for relocated hold down hardware.....
 

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Very sweet Fab work. I have one question though. Where is the Willy's stamp on the hood. I would love to do this to my fenders/ hood but would definitely have to keep the Willy's stamp. Keep the pics coming.
 

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Very sweet Fab work. I have one question though. Where is the Willy's stamp on the hood. I would love to do this to my fenders/ hood but would definitely have to keep the Willy's stamp. Keep the pics coming.
This is a military, the Willys was on the civilian models.
 
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