In Nor Cal where's the best place to get some springs rearched... i am going to be installing some 63 inch chevy's in the back of my tacoma and i will need to rearch the springs to about 6 inches of lift (maybe more) and cost is an issue (i am a brokeass mofo)
Re-Arching Springs
-
Truck seat covers are up to 76% off right now on eBay. Click here for Black! Tan! Multi-coloured! even Camo!
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Joined
·
7,069 Posts
Lotta help this guy is! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
Joined
·
1,988 Posts
I've heard of guys re-arching they're own by taking the leafs apart and beating them with a hammer. But I'm not totally sure of the proceedure, how much you gain, or how long it last's. Re-arching definately makes them stiffer though. I'll see what I can find out though.
Joined
·
1,988 Posts
Disclaimer: This is not from first hand experience, but from someone who has done the re-arching himself, my father.
You need a sledge (4 lb will do) and an anvil, piece of rail iron, or the like. You'll need to know approximately how much additional arch (lift) you want in the springs. Separate the spring into it's individual leafs. Trace the main leaf on the floor to give yourself a reference to work from. Now you'll want to strike the inside arch of the spring, the outside being against the anvil, working your way down the length. Try to keep centered. If you get off to the side, the spring will start to twist, but you can correct this by striking the opposite side of center from your last strike, or the one that started the twist. I would also put reference marks, say every 4 to 6 inches, down the inside so you could repeat it on the other spring. After each pass down the spring, compare it to your reference, and you'll see the difference. Once you get the desired arch on the main, do the same to the other leafs, matching them to the arch on the main.
I'm remember my dad doing this on his 66 CJ and he went too far, actually reversing his shackle angle. The more arch you put in them the stiffer they'll get. So don't over do it. And guarenteed, it's going to take some elbow grease. But it's the cheapest method I know.
You need a sledge (4 lb will do) and an anvil, piece of rail iron, or the like. You'll need to know approximately how much additional arch (lift) you want in the springs. Separate the spring into it's individual leafs. Trace the main leaf on the floor to give yourself a reference to work from. Now you'll want to strike the inside arch of the spring, the outside being against the anvil, working your way down the length. Try to keep centered. If you get off to the side, the spring will start to twist, but you can correct this by striking the opposite side of center from your last strike, or the one that started the twist. I would also put reference marks, say every 4 to 6 inches, down the inside so you could repeat it on the other spring. After each pass down the spring, compare it to your reference, and you'll see the difference. Once you get the desired arch on the main, do the same to the other leafs, matching them to the arch on the main.
I'm remember my dad doing this on his 66 CJ and he went too far, actually reversing his shackle angle. The more arch you put in them the stiffer they'll get. So don't over do it. And guarenteed, it's going to take some elbow grease. But it's the cheapest method I know.
Joined
·
758 Posts
Me and a friend of mine did his CJ springs with a press. Just gave them a little bump every two inches all the way down each leaf. He gained about 3 inches and it lasted longer than we expected but they did eventually flatten back out. Just be careful at the center. They bend real easy at the center pin hole.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
