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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I do not yet possess the fab skill necessary to design and build a properly functioning link suspension, ssssoooo, I have purchased a Rubicon Express Long Arm Kit for my TJ. My question is: can I lengthen the rear upper and lower control arms(I can do that fab work)and still have a properly functioning rear suspension.

I will relocate the track bar and I will properly splice and sleeve the control arms. I am wanting a wheelbase at least 100" so we're talking about 6-8" here.

Any thoughts?
 

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well the lower arms are 2.5" thick with a big ass thread stickin out one end. i guess an easy way is to get some solid bar cut the control arm bore out the solid bar so it slips in nicely and weld.

i say solid stock because you can have it however long you want to lenth'n it and just drill into the stock and bottom out the control arm into the stock and weld however you see fit.

if your worried about weight go a differnt route but tahts my 2 cents. i did that sort of thing on my track bar. the track bar was 1.25 outer diameter so i got some 1 /58" bar. the track bar had to be 2" longer so i cut a piece 5" long bored 1.5" in on each end of the bar got a nice snug fit and welded.


just a thought. im not always right but its a way to do it.


DP
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input Dustpuppy. But my quandery lies in the geometry of the suspension design. I want to keep the chassis mounts as they are but push the rear axle further rearward. Execution of the task is not what I'm concerned with, it's will this modification affect anything such as antisquat or rear steer?
 

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anger mgmt said:
Thanks for the input Dustpuppy. But my quandery lies in the geometry of the suspension design. I want to keep the chassis mounts as they are but push the rear axle further rearward. Execution of the task is not what I'm concerned with, it's will this modification affect anything such as antisquat or rear steer?
It could be done but not with the factory style axle brackets.

Find the dive/anti-dive for the front and then make the rear links balance it by raising the mounting points on the axle.
 

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anger mgmt said:


I was planning on doing that anyway so that the coil is perpendicular to the chassis vs the angle the factory coil bucket is mounted.

That won't work to well, I already did that and it didn't help much in terms of wheelbase, you have to move the mount back farther along the frame which will mean you'll have to run a shorter coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Beast40 said:



That won't work to well, I already did that and it didn't help much in terms of wheelbase, you have to move the mount back farther along the frame which will mean you'll have to run a shorter coil.
Coil mounting and so on I can handle. It's the locating links that intimidate me a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
JEEP_TJ_FREAK said:


That depends on the presets from the RE front setup and your vehicles makeup. I bet both would need to be moved upward but most likely not to the same extent.
I respect and will hopefully use the information that you as well as others provide. Thanks for the thought that you have put into this so far, but can you elaborate on your theory?
 

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I know you already purchased the RE kit, but did you check out Rockkwarler? Here is the info on their new kit.......The Rock Krawler Super 7 Stretch System for the Wrangler TJ features all the high quality front end components of our Standard Severe Duty 7.0" Long Arm System plus new longer control arms for the rear that pushes the rear axle back to stretch the wheel base to 99"/100". This is accomplished by a new tri-angulated 4 link rear suspension that uses Fox Coil Overs for your rear springs and shocks. This gives you the highest ride quality available combined with the ability to climb the steep stuff like no TJ can!
WWW.Rockkrawler.Com
 
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