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Discussion Starter #1
Ok my E-Brake isn't holding. New pads. New Cable. What the hell.. Pulled it and got all the Mudd out..


<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> WHAT ELSE???
 

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Did you adjust the cable? Adjustment is made somewhere underneath the passenger seat (under the truck).

Also, are your wheel cylinders leaking?
 

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I will assume it is still in 1 piece. Check the arm for adjustment, it may have become way too loose and is not engaging anything. Check pads as you stated, and check under your dash to make sure the connection is still there. Sometimes the cable will get freyed and let go. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by marco:
<STRONG>Did you adjust the cable? Adjustment is made somewhere underneath the passenger seat (under the truck).

Also, are your wheel cylinders leaking?</STRONG>
Did that adjustment and no Leaks..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by bertha:
<STRONG>I will assume it is still in 1 piece. Check the arm for adjustment, it may have become way too loose and is not engaging anything. Check pads as you stated, and check under your dash to make sure the connection is still there. Sometimes the cable will get freyed and let go. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Yeah I have a Brand new cable on.
 

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With the Drum off... pull the e-brake and see if it actually engages the little wheel thingy in the brake assembly (wheel thingy is the technical term)... if it doesn't than you have a broken line or need to adjust it. If it does, then you may need to make the adjustment at that wheel thingy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
LOL are you trying to sound like me... The thingy.. I am working on it now. there are no Broke lines. We are having the Problem on both trucks now.
God I hate the mudd.
Originally posted by Entropy:
<STRONG>With the Drum off... pull the e-brake and see if it actually engages the little wheel thingy in the brake assembly (wheel thingy is the technical term)... if it doesn't than you have a broken line or need to adjust it. If it does, then you may need to make the adjustment at that wheel thingy.</STRONG>
 

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is your star adjuster working.

happy trails
rich *ruger* <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I'll be doing the same on mine tomorrow. I'll let you know what the fix is once I figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by HighToy:
<STRONG>I'll be doing the same on mine tomorrow. I'll let you know what the fix is once I figure it out.</STRONG>
Cool and I will let you know if I find out anything <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">
 

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The star adjuster is self adjusting unless the threads are frozen or have crud worked into them. If you have done your brakes and adjusted the star to just rub the drum slightly when you turn the tire by hand then all else should fall in line. I always take em apart when doing a shoe job and clean em up and use thread anti freeze and never had an issue. Now the star has nothing to do with the hand brake after its adjusted since that job goes to the parking brake lever\ adjuster lever & spring thats mounted in the drum. If they are all connected up good and your not missing a spring then it has to lie in the e-brake line, & that is adjusted from under the truck. It is possible that if you have a new cable it could be to long, but thats rare. It will turn out to be somthing simple!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Isn't it always something so easy that it takes forever to fig out..
Originally posted by 5spd:
<STRONG>The star adjuster is self adjusting unless the threads are frozen or have crud worked into them. If you have done your brakes and adjusted the star to just rub the drum slightly when you turn the tire by hand then all else should fall in line. I always take em apart when doing a shoe job and clean em up and use thread anti freeze and never had an issue. Now the star has nothing to do with the hand brake after its adjusted since that job goes to the parking brake lever\ adjuster lever & spring thats mounted in the drum. If they are all connected up good and your not missing a spring then it has to lie in the e-brake line, & that is adjusted from under the truck. It is possible that if you have a new cable it could be to long, but thats rare. It will turn out to be somthing simple!!</STRONG>
<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Did you use Toyota or aftermarket brake shoes (pads)? I had a couple buddy's that used aftermarket shoes and had nothing put problems with them. One guy the e-brake would not hold because the slot in the shoes where the e-brake rod went was to deep and whenhe pulled it on it did not move the shoe out far enought to work. The other two guys if the forgot to take the e-brake off (we all do that) the shoe would get pulled into the drum and pull the wheel cylinder apart and ruin the wheel cylinder. I told him to get Toyota shoes from the dealer and he has not had a problem since. Another thing is your drums could need to turned and the shoes arced to the drums. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Hmm... I'm using after market. I did notice when I put the shoes on that I had to adjust the star out pretty far.

BTW. Like the pic of the cat on your site. Too funny. Reminds me of my crazy cats.
 

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When you find out what the problem was let us all know mmmmkay. Dave is correct on some of those aftermarket shoes even if they are toyota cores. Yup it may take a bit to figure it out but thats part of the fun!
<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep I have noticed that a lot of aftermarket parts do work well with Toyotas.
But of most of the stuff I get really cheap wholesale and Lifetimes on them. so I buy them there.
I will let ya know with the Brakes. The one toyota has Toyota Brakes and isn't working. so who knows all I do know is every time we play in that MUDD EWW.. Blew out a Front Mail seal too. I set a Rec on 10 mins to change it wooohoo I am gettin good.
The first time it took me 7 hours LOL..
 

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make sure the cables going to the backing plate are actually pulling the lever that goes thru the backing plate to set the brake. my lever (inside the rubber boot) is rusted solid from the cylinder leaking on it and will not work. hint- pull the boots back and look inside. i promise they are nasty if you get in mud alot! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Make sure you clean out all the mud in the
parking brake bellcrank that bolts to the
back of the backing plate. Dirt can accumulate
in there and stop the lever from moving
all the way in either direction. Take it off,
blast it out good, make sure it moves smoothly
and has full travel.
That rubber boot seems to trap more mud that
in keeps out, so I just cut mine off.

Since you used aftermarket shoes, you might need
to adjust the parking brake freeplay.
When all the cables inside the brake assembly
are just snug, there should be a small gap
between the stop screw and the backing plate.
 

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sounds like the muffler bearing to me. Seriously, I've had problems with mine from day one. I redid my rear brakes and the pbrake worked fine for a couple of months, but with big tires it just doesn't hold well. You should think about making one of those driveshaft disc brake thingys mounted to the tcase like ap sells. there was a thread on here about a month or so ago where someone made one for about 100 bones. that sounds like the best solution to me.
 

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Heres some more info to get ya going hopefully. Clearance between the brake shoes and the drum must be correct before the PB is adjusted. To start you must tighten the star wheel until the tire stops turning then back it off by 7-8 turns to loosen it up then go to the next step as outlined.
On PU & 4runners loosen the lock nut on the bellcrank adjusting bolt at the rear of backing plate. Tighten adjuster bolt until there is no play in linkage, then lossen bolt 1 turn & tighten lock nut.
Now move the adjusting nuts on the intermediate lever in the same direction until the lever travel is correct,(this is the PB adjuster the truck) should be about 6-8 clicks on the PB lever when you pull it out. now check the bellcrank adjuster bolt, it MUST contact the backing plate when the lever is released.
A bit of going back & forth until its done right.
 
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