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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put chevy springs in the rear,I am also running 3 inch blocks.Is anyone out there having problems with set up as far as axle wrap goes. Do you think a traction bar is in order?Would be thankfull for any info. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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I run 3-leaf Chevy springs with a 1" lift block and experience very little axle wrap. I would recommend installing an add-a-leaf and removing the 3" blocks. The blocks are placing too much leverage on the springs. Also try using the factory Chevy overload spring, but cut the leaf flush at the rear of the spring pad and leave the front about 8" long or so. This will help prevent wrap. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know the blocks arent helping any thing,but i realy need the hight!I am runing the factory chevy overload yet it is not cut yet.Im thinking of getting rid of the blocks and getting a 4 inch lift chevy soft-ride spring but im afraid i will loose all that flex.This is why i thought a traction bar mite be in order.
 

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A combination of the overload and a longer shackle migh be enough to make up for the lift block, this is how I got rid of my lift blocks.

I also run a 4 leaf pack, it flexes about the same as the 3 leaf and doesn't loose as much ride height with the weight of camping gear and spare parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when you say overload spring do you mean add-a-leaf.I already have the factory overload with 6 inch YJ shackles,and i still could go a inch or so up in the rear remember im trying to clear 38's
 

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I would would run the traction bar anyway...it's a good idea to do it no matter how flexy your suspension is...it's worth the effort
 

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I'm running the 4 leaf pack in mine with 4" blocks and double shackles. I haven't had problems with axle wrap yet and I've been over some nasty trails. I've dropped the clutch in 2wd low on sand and had someone watch the springs, still didn't twist. I don't think you're gonna have a problem like everyone else thinks you're going to.
 

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another option for more lift is to place some square tube (receiver hitch stock works good...) between the rear shackle hanger and the frame. this way the lift block is eliminated and you'll point the pinion up a tad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am running 2x2 at the shackle hanger for that extra hight,but i think like zesty-toy said it is well worth the money for a traction bar,after all how much could the cost to make....60 70 bucks tops?Thanks for all the info
 

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I run them with a 2 or 2.5 inch block. Never had a problem. It wraps a little but oh well. I also took out the chevy overload spring. I have long shackles sitting about 45 degrees of kickback. I wouldn't bother. I have never had a problem. I also have a v6 so my axels might be stronger then your i don't know. It is recommended if you used the mazdas or maybe even with the waganeers. The chevy leaves are very thick and you shouldn't be experienceing too much wrap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That all sounds good and all but with a 3 inch block and 38 inch tires there is alot of leverage against the springs,not to shure what the type of rear end has to do with any thing but for what it is worth its a dana 60. However it does seem that the comin concencis is i should be O.K. thanks again
 

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I' am running the superlift dodge 6 inch springs, with double shackles. About 8 inches of lift and lots of droop, about 18 inches. No blocks, lifetime warranty, great flex. The Mazda springs bent like pretzels. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 
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