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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a rear disc anyone has found that is suitable to use with IFS 4 piston calipers on the rear? I looked at a book today at vato-zone and none of their listings look like they'll work. I was hoping something along the lines of a tundra or 4 runner rear on a newer truck would fit. I'm trying to put them on an 87 4 runner rear axle, and I don't want to go with the chevy rotors that everyone and their dog seems to use. I looked at stock 86 front rotors, but the hat portion of the rotor is too small in diameter to fit over the axle flange.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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i bet you could have someone with a lathe turn down the axle flange a bit to make it fit inside the toy rotor hat. i did this to fit a re-drilled front samurai rotor using suburu callipers on a rear toy axle. i am not sure how small the id of the toy rotor is though.
 

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I have 85 front discs and 85 4 piston calipers on my rear axle. Its not all that tricky.. Just open the inside diameter of the rotor...
 

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I am running Chevy's on mine. If you have 86 calipers and rotors, what if you mounted the rotor to the backside of the axle flange and run the studs through it and into the axle? Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i bet you could have someone with a lathe turn down the axle flange a bit to make it fit inside the toy rotor hat. i did this to fit a re-drilled front samurai rotor using suburu callipers on a rear toy axle. i am not sure how small the id of the toy rotor is though.
It's pretty small, but a thought.

I have 85 front discs and 85 4 piston calipers on my rear axle. Its not all that tricky.. Just open the inside diameter of the rotor...
Have lathe, will travel. Problem is the rotor hat OD is about the same as the flange ID. I'd probably have to turn down the axle flange and open up the rotor hat. I'm trying to make something that doesn't absolutely require machine work to duplicate if necessary

I am running Chevy's on mine. If you have 86 calipers and rotors, what if you mounted the rotor to the backside of the axle flange and run the studs through it and into the axle? Just a thought.
Now we're talking. I was looking at this option last night, but I'm not sure what to do with the sheetmetal flange that attaches to the wheel bearing and spans out to hold the studs? Anyone had luck just cutting this off?

I keep seeing 4 runners and Tundras in town with 6 lug rears and disc brakes, if I could get some dimensions off on of them I could probably settle this whole thing with an off the shelf part. Another thought I had was to use the stock rotor off a nissan titan.

The hurdle is that the IFS toy calipers are setup for such a thin rotor. Seems like most rigs run a 1" thick rotor, not 3/4" like the toyota fronts. I'd like to stay with the toy caliper though so that I have the advantage of all wheels being interchangeable.

Thanks for the good input guys.
 

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The obvious is go with a full floater rear axle and you use the SFA front wheel hub and spindle on the rear, get some SFA vented rotors and some 4 cyl IFS calipers and you are done.

:smokin:
 

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ive got tacoma rotors on the back of my truck...i had to turn the axle flange down so i put the truck on axle stands with the axles installed...turned the truck on and hit them with a grinder...works just like a lathe
 

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'85 front rotors, '85 calipers, studs, etc. Bigrocks Offroad adaptor plates.
Land Crusier master, 4 Runner booster, Braided SS lines.
 

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Wish it was my job!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
'85 front rotors, '85 calipers, studs, etc. Bigrocks Offroad adaptor plates.
Land Crusier master, 4 Runner booster, Braided SS lines.

I think that's what I've landed on as the swap I'm going to do.

What's the offset between the back of the bearing retainer flange and the caliper mounting surface?

Is there any benefit to mounting the caliper to the bearing retainer flange instead of just welding a bracket to the tube and mounting the caliper to it? I've already welded 4 link and airshock brackets to my housing, as well as removing the original 4 runner 5 link brackets with the plasma cutter, so I'm not too worried about distorting the housing at this point.

My plan was to just make a flat bracket with a couple gussets that welds to the housing and the caliper bolts up to.
 

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Bigrocks used to sell this setup as a kit. I was able to get some of the brackets from them before they discontinued selling the kit. They might have some left or be willing to make some up. I think if you mock it all up it shouldn't be too hard to locate were to weld the plate to the housing.
 

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Toywelder still sells his brackets to mount the toy calipers on the rear axle...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
From the research I've done, not exactly.

I've got '86 front rotors that were mounted to the front hub via 6 8mm bolts, one in between each wheel stud in the hub. In back they'll be mounted to the back of the flange, but instead of bolting to the flange like the do on the front, I'll ream out the 6 bolt holes to the right size and press the studs into the disc. Then the remaining shank on the studs will press into axle flange in the stock holes. Lastly, bolting the wheel up will suck everything together and hold the whole assembly like it's supposed to.

Unfortunately I won't have updates on this effort for a while. I've been on again / off again for going wheeling over labor day, and as of last night I'm back to "on" so I can't go tearing down the rig until the weekend of the 8th.
 

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From my old research on this i remember alot of comments about it being a bad idea for a daily driver, and a bad idea in general, has that consensus changed?
 

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BRreddog are the rotors mounted on the rear of the axle flange justlike they would be on the front hubs?
Yes...

From the research I've done, not exactly.

I've got '86 front rotors that were mounted to the front hub via 6 8mm bolts, one in between each wheel stud in the hub. In back they'll be mounted to the back of the flange, but instead of bolting to the flange like the do on the front, I'll ream out the 6 bolt holes to the right size and press the studs into the disc. Then the remaining shank on the studs will press into axle flange in the stock holes. Lastly, bolting the wheel up will suck everything together and hold the whole assembly like it's supposed to.

Unfortunately I won't have updates on this effort for a while. I've been on again / off again for going wheeling over labor day, and as of last night I'm back to "on" so I can't go tearing down the rig until the weekend of the 8th.
These setups use 85 rotors (solid) not 86 (vented) rotors...

From my old research on this i remember alot of comments about it being a bad idea for a daily driver, and a bad idea in general, has that consensus changed?

Why is that your conclusion? If you want rear discs, you have to play with proportioning, no matter what. Normally, if you are upgrading the front, you've probably got the discs and calipers just laying around. The small toy calipers have less piston area than the GM calipers commonly used for rear discs. With the small toy calipers out back, and big V6 calipers up front, you've got ~25% more piston area up front, which is a start in the right direction. Then use an adjustable prop valve from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
From my old research on this i remember alot of comments about it being a bad idea for a daily driver, and a bad idea in general, has that consensus changed?
My rig (the orange one) is about as far from being a DD as you can get. :grinpimp:

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
From the end of the thread posted earlier with everyone throwing a fit about front to rear bias...



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452546&highlight=toyota+disc+brake+conversion
BlahBlahBlah, my rig rarely goes more than 500 yards in 2wd, I'll take all the help my front brakes can get, including back driving through the T-Case.... V6 IFS Calipers and Land Cruiser rotors are on the menu for the front end. I've been able to squeek by on the stock master cylinder, and stock toyota brakes for a long time, but my recent conversion to 5.29 gears in the axles (from 4.10) has left me with inadequate brake power. I've already upgraded to a mazda 929 1" bore master cylinder, and I've got all the parts to setup the rear with 4cylinder IFS calipers and rotors, so that's next. Once I get that behind me I'll gather up the parts and look into the V6 calipers for the front end.

Another direction i considered going was swapping my complete IFS hubs, rotors, etc onto the front end, and putting the solid rotors and calipers in the rear.

Not that I'm trying to be cheap about it, it's just that there's only 1 junkyard within 50 miles of my house thats worth even 1/2 of a shit, not a whole shit, so I don't have a good resource to go parts mining for swaps like this and I'm trying to keep the projects on the samurai to a minimum so I can get after the chassis work needed to put a D60 and 14bolt under my 4 runner.

And something about axle play and the toy caliper mounting not allowing room for it to move. I'll see if i can find some links later, who knows i may be way off.
I'd think that would be a real problem on a C Clip axle, hence the caliper slide bolts used on such kits as the ford 8.8 brakes that everyone duplicates for rear disc conversions. The opposing pistons in the caliper should be able to take up any side to side play in the wheel bearings on a toyota axle, if they can't, you've got bigger problems.
 
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