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Since there is WAY to much chit chat fluff in here, I thought we needed another solid tech thread.

Many of us delving into the deep stuff relocate our radiators into the rear. There are several different approaches; this thread is to talk about them. You can find how I did mine here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=603541&highlight=radiator

Figured now that we have a mud forum it was time to drag it out of the depths of the Ford forum.

Discuss :D
 

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this is a great idea. But is it worth doing on a street legal trail rig that only sees bumper deep mudwith 4" lift and 37's?
For street legal, maybe not. If you mostly use it in the mud, then yes. Just because the mud is bumper deep, doesn't mean the backside of the radiator isn't getting a good coat of mud from the tires. I learned the hard way.:homer:
 

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Was wanting to do this on my truck was curious the effects it would have on a diesel motor since i have not seen it done on one...another complication i was concerned with would be it being a crewcab would it put serious strain on the pump?
 

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Was wanting to do this on my truck was curious the effects it would have on a diesel motor since i have not seen it done on one...another complication i was concerned with would be it being a crewcab would it put serious strain on the pump?
I would get rid of the mechanical pump and run two electric pumps in line using all -16an lines. If you want to go on the cheap route you can use some cheap rubber hose and they have some 12v water pumps from Harbor Freight for about $30 a pop or so. Use one on each side(one going to the rad one going from the rad) perpendicular from each other and you can even put in a 3 position switch with a temp sensor so you can have it off, temp switch and on. Should hold you up just fine.
 

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I would get rid of the mechanical pump and run two electric pumps in line using all -16an lines. If you want to go on the cheap route you can use some cheap rubber hose and they have some 12v water pumps from Harbor Freight for about $30 a pop or so. Use one on each side(one going to the rad one going from the rad) perpendicular from each other and you can even put in a 3 position switch with a temp sensor so you can have it off, temp switch and on. Should hold you up just fine.

there is no need for all of that. the stock pump will work just fine. my buddys truck has a 3" x 6" frame, filled with water. his stock pump moves it from the length of the truck and back without issue.

i used thin metal piping to run mine to the rear, with radiator hose where i needed a connection i could take apart. i welded up my own bends and connections everywhere else.

the biggest thing you need to do is have an air bleed at the high point at your motor.... other than that, it's pretty simple.
 

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I see alot of people running exhaust tubing in the channel of the frame, and running regular radiator hoses to tie into the radiator and WP. I've also seen guys run the radiator in the front and run lines to one in the back also. I'd like to run mine in the rear, but im afraid it will get too hot in the cab. (K5 Blazer)
 

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do you have to worry about rust forming on the inside of the pipe if your using metal for the runners to the rear? ive looked into other options but stainless is expensive and pvc is not great for cold weather so if yall have not had any trouble with it then i may give it a shot.
 

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I ran rear mounted radiator on my last two rigs. I ran a large four core chevy radiator with dual electric fans. There is no need for auxiliary water pumps as the stocker will get the job done just fine. To combat rust I used galvanized fence pipe to run the water in. Some have used rubber hose all the way to the back but I like the fact that the water will lose heat on the way to the radiator and back when running metal pipe. You definitely must have an air bleed at the highest point of the motor. I used a petcock from a radiator to purge the air out. I also drill a small 1/8" hole in the t stat so when you fill up your system it will bleed all the air out instead of having to warm the motor up to finish filling. Also I've seen a lot of systems done wrong where they crossed the hoses and ran the return to the bottom and the suction to the top. Make sure the lower radiator hose goes to the bottom of the radiator and the top hose to the top.....and make sure you get lots of air flow across the radiator....properly designed systems will work with all the stock parts.
 

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yeah, ive heard of people using concrete hose but it too is expensive. the galvanized direction seems to be the way to go for budget builders like me. do you still use a valve on the engine if the rad cap is the highest point in the system?
 

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any pics of these set ups?

and what do you guys think about just running an extra water container in the back for extra water supply???? good or bad idea???
 

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I wouldn't worry about rust. Antifreeze is pretty good at combating the formation of rust. Cast iron blocks don't seem to rust from the inside out.
 

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In this truck you can see the galvanized exhaust pipe right above the frame in the front wheel well.


I don't think you would need an extra tank. You already get the extra capacity from the length of tube. Between the inlet and return lines (2" IIRC) going from the bed to the engine bay, there was quite a bit more water needed to fill it. The stock water pump in the 304 (wagoneer frame/drivetrain) seemed to keep the water moving just fine.

Another guy I know works for a pool company and he gets the stainless hand rail tube from near the pool steps whenever they tear one down. If ya know a pool guy it might be a good cheap source. It already has nice bends too :flipoff2:
 

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i have always used the pipes out of a toyota mr2 , they come with bleeds and all and are s/s , and pretty much every mr2 has them still in it
 

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I did mine an interesting way, I run two aluminum radiators in the bed, I turned my electric water pump upside down so instead of going out bottom passenger side it goes up to the drivers side. Then I turned the neck on the intake around so both lines run right down the intake next to the valve covers and down the back of the motor and follow the bellhousing of the tranny and then go up into the bed. It worked really slick. I run a front and rear motor plate and I didn't want the pipe going under each plate below the frame, this way it all stays confined in the engine compartment. I'll try to get some pics this weekend to better explain how they look. I just used exhaust tubing and radiator hoses at the elbows.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
any pics of these set ups?

and what do you guys think about just running an extra water container in the back for extra water supply???? good or bad idea???
You didn't click on the link in post number one, did you? I run an overflow container off the rad cap, much like the stock setup. Thats it. As has already been mentioned, you are already adding a shit ton of extra capacity simply due to the remote tubing.
 

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At the race car shop they also have a waterneck that has a radiator cap on it....run a cap at the engine and one back at the radiator....buddy has one like that...I prefer the petcock valve on the waterneck. You can find the waternecks with the thermovacuum switch on them so the neck already has threads..
 
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