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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you running rear mounted batteries...

How'd you wire them up? Looking at stuff like Summit, etc, I see lots of kits that imply a single long cable for the positive connection from the battery to the engine compartment. Then shorter cables from the battery negative post, I presume to the frame.

What I am wondering is what are you all doing? I recall seeing Lance's battery box in the rear and this has me wondering:

1) Connecting the winch: how are you doing it?

2) Battery cutoff switches: If you are running one where are you putting it: Neg or Positive?

I picked up 20' of 1 guage welding wire, and am ordering a battery box, but want to make sure I get this right. Seems like a simple thing...I could just run the pos and neg up to the front.

Thanks

Jim
 

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i run one in the front and one in the back...... front does everything as if it was a normal 1 battery setup...

i have a switch in the cab to switch to 2nd batt only or hook both batteries together

1 gage cable front to back on top of the frame rails

works wonderful
 

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I have the negative run up to the block, and then a shorty going from the block to the frame. I actually have the winch running from the winch to the starter, and the negative running to the negative battery cable @ the block. Right or wrong, it works fine, and haven't had any problems.
 

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You cant but a big enough wire to compete with the size of the frame! It is the best ground wire you can get. Keep all of your ground wires short & connect them as close as possible to a clean frame/cage location. Power (+) wires need to be as big as possible. 0 ga for winch & starter is decent, even to go to the other end of the rig.

Lance, glad it works for you, but you have a bunch of extra wire on your rig that isnt needed! Use the frame...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
WireGeek said:
You cant but a big enough wire to compete with the size of the frame! It is the best ground wire you can get. Keep all of your ground wires short & connect them as close as possible to a clean frame/cage location. Power (+) wires need to be as big as possible. 0 ga for winch & starter is decent, even to go to the other end of the rig.

Lance, glad it works for you, but you have a bunch of extra wire on your rig that isnt needed! Use the frame...
So would relatively short (say 8') of 1 guage welding wire be sufficient? I don't really feel like tossing the 1 guage I just bought.

Thanks for the replies folks.
 

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Either way is fine. Personally, unless I was trying to save every ounce of weight, I'd ground it to the frame and to the block. Intermittent grounds make for aggrivating, random electrical problems... and by having two of em, you reduce the chance of that a lot.

Make sure to rewire your alternator's output to the battery terminal, and then put the cutoff switch between both of them and the rest of the rig. Otherwise, hitting the cutoff switch in an emergency disconnects the battery, but the alt keeps the rig running anyways. ;)
 

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I would think that 1 gauge would be enough for a single battery. I'm using OO welding cable, but is because I aready have it. I'm running two batteries in the rear with a battery disconnect between the seats.
 

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Battery behind pass. seat.The battery is grounded to a stud welded to the frame right uder the batt. 00 wire from positive post to the battery cutoff switch then oo wire to a bulkhead connecter at the fire wall.On engine side of bulkhead connecter,00 to the winch,1 guage to starter etc. etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
TNToy said:
Either way is fine. Personally, unless I was trying to save every ounce of weight, I'd ground it to the frame and to the block. Intermittent grounds make for aggrivating, random electrical problems... and by having two of em, you reduce the chance of that a lot.

Make sure to rewire your alternator's output to the battery terminal, and then put the cutoff switch between both of them and the rest of the rig. Otherwise, hitting the cutoff switch in an emergency disconnects the battery, but the alt keeps the rig running anyways. ;)
I had been wondering about that.... which leads to the following: winches draw lots of current, more them most of what these are rated for at constant draw. Are folks running through them anyway or home running the winch positive cable?
 

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I run 1GA from the rear + to the starter sol in front. 2 ga from there to the winch and 2 ga to the starter. 1 GA - in back to the frame. Adding a disconnect between the seats soon.:)
 

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Every body seems to be using 1 gauge and smaller. Aren't battery and starter cables are all 4 gauge from the factory and at all the parts houses? I bought 20 feet of 2 gauge to put an optima in the cab, will that be big enough cable?
 

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iamjacob said:
Every body seems to be using 1 gauge and smaller. Aren't battery and starter cables are all 4 gauge from the factory and at all the parts houses? I bought 20 feet of 2 gauge to put an optima in the cab, will that be big enough cable?
Don't forget the shorter the cable the thinner it can be. So you take a batt cable that was 12" long and it was 4 ga. Never had a problem. Now add a few feet to it and see what happens to the 4 ga after you have to crank the engine for a little, or run the winch. In short bursts it will never be a problem. It's when you need to run high amps thru it for extended amount of time. The thinner it is, the faster it heats up, the hoter it gets the more resitance goes up.

Most people and kits use 00 ga. since it is a standard welding lead size, and readly avalible. And somethings "bigger is better."
 

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I have a hella battery kill - battery is in the bed, cable goes to cab (switch) and on to my starter solenoid. Winch is also on the solenoid along with my accesories.

ugly solenoid



battery in bed there..

 

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My battery is mounted just in front of the rear tire, inside the passenger frame rail. I've currently got 2-0 cable running (+) to a CUCV distribution block on the pass side of the fire wall (3/8 lugs and heavy dist bar with ceramic issolators). Alternator, starter, chassis wiring, everyting ties in on the junction block. Ground is on the frame.
 

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13ft of 2/0 fine strand cable

I used a pos. and a neg. cable; I also ground the battery to the cage right next to the box...

I used a marine disconnect switch right next to the front seat, just remember to run the cable as protected as possible and cover all the exposed terminals and battery lugs. I have yet to have any problems...

Matt







 

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Battery cutoff switches: If you are running one where are you putting it: Neg or Positive?
You can do it either way, but I recommend putting the cut-off switch on the negative side of the battery and I also recomend that you fuse your battery (also on the negative side).

The reason is simple, if you drop a wrench or other conductor across the terminals, you will not have to worry about any sparks, "welding", or other electrical damage. If you put the switch/fuse on the positive side of the circuit, you have at least one "hot terminal" exposed.
 

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You cant but a big enough wire to compete with the size of the frame!
Using only the frame for a ground is an invitation for ground loops which can cause annoying, hard to trace noise problems in stereos and other eletronic devices like your ECU or gps. If you want to do it right, use a ground strap the length of the frame and tie into that.

If you don't have and don't plan for any electronics then forget what I just said:D
 

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Something that's been mentioned in this thread a couple of times is wireing from the battery to the solenoid to the winch. Is this Ok to do???
 
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