[Hersh]

I've had brake trouble for a few years now. Started having brake pedal go way down before getting any resistance, stopping power is poor. I have repaced MC, Booster, disks and pads. Bled several times and ways.. Inspected Calipers and they are fine - pads are wearing evenly, however the last set burned up in 9k miles?

Finally had dealer look at it and do a compr. check on it. Front was 80 for 80, rear was 30 (specs are 48-58 at rest) and my PV has been cut short and tied up for max rear brake use (means I should actually by higher than specs, not lower).

Dealer says it's a sure sign that the PV is bad (they blame the tied up factor).

Does it make sence that a bad PV in the rear will make the front work too hard (burning pads) and the truck stop like shit? Can I eliminate the PV or should I just replace it?

Thanks all...

Mike

 

[Badazz4Runner]

I had the same problem til I bled the screw on the valve it self..,But you said you already did that right?Bye the way mine is tied up and works great.

 

[Alabamatoy]

Originally posted by Hersh:
<STRONG>Does it make sence that a bad PV in the rear will make the front work too hard (burning pads) and the truck stop like shit? Can I eliminate the PV or should I just replace it?</STRONG>

Absolutely. The PV proportions the braking force between front and rear brakes. I never could get mine adjusted correctly, once I had installed the lift. My recommendation - replace the stock PV with the PV kit from FrorFab. It works very well, is easy to install, easily adjusted, and actually creates a safer brake system since it results in a split system (one for front, one for rear).

 

[IMUZ ME]

I took mine out and just re-plumbed the brakes, you really dont' need that unless you are going to be carrying heavy loads!!

 

[Allen1532]

Does anyone has a pic of how they tied the PV up???? Thinking about doing it. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[Hersh]

Actually, the last ones to bleed the truck was the dealer so I'm not sure if they did the PV? You would think they did but who knows <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> I'll have to ask them on Monday - good point!

One more mix to the situation is that I'm cutting the rear coil and going to leafs in back so whatever I do will need to work with that.

 

[Hersh]

Big Pimp - how did you plumb around it? Did you have to buy a T fitting or just connect directly past it? I think this is an interesting idea.

Mike

 

[OOP'S]

I just took mine off and bent the feed line downto the line that is mounted to the gas tank bracket. Them I went to the "T" on the passenger side front and disconnted the return line and put a plug in the "T". The LPSV has an arrow on it to tell you which is the feed line and the return line, do not mix them up.

[ 10-13-2001: Message edited by: OOPS ]

 

[RUGER]

i've heard that willwood makes a pv that eliminates the swing arm thingy that tells how full your bed is.

i've rigged that arm up with baleine wire to the bottom of the bed. my front breaks do most of the breaking.

happy trails
rich *ruger* <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[Black_Panther]

this is an easy ugrade to do! total cost is around $60 and will take you only a few hours to do. my rear lines and LSPV were pretty much shot so figured it was time to make the upgrade. here's my cost "brake down" and steps to do this:

Parts:
1) Wilwood Prop Valve - $39 from Summit Racing
2) New rear brake line and new front line w/ various fittings - $23 from local parts store.

Steps:
1) undue brake line from front brakes that runs to the LPSV (frame rail on pass side)
2) plug T the fitting you just removed the brake line from. I used a metric to SAE fitting adapter and an SAE plug.
3) disconnect that same line from the LPSV. you can remove the whole line or just leave it there - you don't need it anymore
4) front brakes are done!
5) run a new hard line from the rear brake soft line, up into the engine compartment - you don't really need to do this if your lines are fine, but might as well do it just to be safe. I didn't want to have to make my own lines, so I just used 2 5' SAE 3/16 lines, joined together with a union in the middle and another SAE to metric adapter to attach it to the rear soft line.
6) run the end of the rear line you just installed into the "outlet" side of your new PV - I zip tied my PV to the firewall, right next to the charcoal canister
7) run a line from the "inlet" side of the PV to the rear brake line fitting on the M/C. since I was still using SAE line, I used another metric to SAE adapter.
8) rear brakes are done.
9) bleed your brakes
10) find a parking lot and start slamming on the brakes until the rears lock up just after the fronts do.

I'll try to draw up a MSPaint diagram of the whole thing. any questions let me know.

 

[bertha]

Originally posted by Black_Panther:
<STRONG>this is an easy ugrade to do! total cost is around $60 and will take you only a few hours to do. my rear lines and LSPV were pretty much shot so figured it was time to make the upgrade. here's my cost "brake down" and steps to do this:

Parts:
1) Wilwood Prop Valve - $39 from Summit Racing
2) New rear brake line and new front line w/ various fittings - $23 from local parts store.

Steps:
1) undue brake line from front brakes that runs to the LPSV (frame rail on pass side)
2) plug T the fitting you just removed the brake line from. I used a metric to SAE fitting adapter and an SAE plug.
3) disconnect that same line from the LPSV. you can remove the whole line or just leave it there - you don't need it anymore
4) front brakes are done!
5) run a new hard line from the rear brake soft line, up into the engine compartment - you don't really need to do this if your lines are fine, but might as well do it just to be safe. I didn't want to have to make my own lines, so I just used 2 5' SAE 3/16 lines, joined together with a union in the middle and another SAE to metric adapter to attach it to the rear soft line.
6) run the end of the rear line you just installed into the "outlet" side of your new PV - I zip tied my PV to the firewall, right next to the charcoal canister
7) run a line from the "inlet" side of the PV to the rear brake line fitting on the M/C. since I was still using SAE line, I used another metric to SAE adapter.
8) rear brakes are done.
9) bleed your brakes
10) find a parking lot and start slamming on the brakes until the rears lock up just after the fronts do.

I'll try to draw up a MSPaint diagram of the whole thing. any questions let me know.</STRONG>

Ditto on most of this <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
The only thing I did different was to use the same ends from factory on the new brake lines. I used a double flare tool and have had no leaks. Now I think I have an air pocket in there somewhere and it is pissing me off. Time to bleed again.

 

[Sir Flipsalot]

Sorry about the size of the pics but here is what I did....

Valve removed:

Blocked Tee:

Wilwood Prop Valve:

For the complete write up go to my web page and click on present mods and rear disk brakes.....

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: SirFlipsalot ]

 

[Black_Panther]

ok, I think this took me longer to draw up than to actually do the swap....

<IMG width=1152 height=922 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/PropValve.jpg">

 

[Nate C]

FYI: My 81 sb pickup has no return line to front and no bleeder fitting on the lspv. Still got it hooked up with a lift bracket on the axle housing for now...brakes work much better with it...properly adjusted.

Oh yeah, it is a toyota factory replacement valve that I put in a couple years ago.

[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: Nate C ]

 

[AZToy]

Are you ready for your sas. we'll start cuting next week. We can also install a ajustable pv <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

 

[Hersh]

Thanks for all the great feedback and diagram guys! I think it's time to do the exchange rather than spend the $140 on a new one from Toy.

Mark - hell ya I am!!!!! Besides the brake trouble, I slammed a rock running a wash out in FJ last weekend at 40mph - jacked my alignment to hell <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Good thing it's all going. You tell me when and I'll have the truck there - I also have the gears but need to order the rear springs and the ARB/Detroit (still undecided).

Mark - how was the Hammers <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0"> Hope you took some good photos of your truck (and Lary's) for the web!

Mike

PS - Anyone have the phone number for Summit Racing handy?

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: Hersh ]

 

[TNToy]

Originally posted by RUGER RICH:
<STRONG>I rigged that arm up with baleine wire to the bottom of the bed. my front breaks do most of the breaking.</STRONG>

<font color="yellow">Umm... tying it all the way *UP* adjusts max pressure to the rear brakes. All the way down is min. pressure to rear brakes, so you might want to rethink that one, buddy.

Think about it.. if the arm is all the way up, that would mean that the bed has been compressed toward the axles, so the truck is heavily loaded. Therefore, your rear brakes need more pressure, since the axle sees more weight & has more traction.

If you want the front to have all the pressure, tie it all the way DOWN.

I tied mine all the way up, and went through a brand new set of rear shoes in six months. If you haven't bled the LSPV, do it now. It made a huge difference in my rig... Brakes almost doubled in firmness.</font>

 

[bertha]

Originally posted by Hersh:
<STRONG>
PS - Anyone have the phone number for Summit Racing handy?

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: Hersh ]</STRONG>

If your in Phoenix just go over to Ellis racing and buy one from them. That is where I bought mine when I was up there. Oh and I think he screwed up on the price because he only charged me $32 and I have seen them for as much as $79. may want to ask about it though. Anyway, Ellis racing specializes in Bandits I think.

 

[Nate C]

also have the gears but need to order the rear springs and the ARB/Detroit (still undecided).

Fawk it...spool it. I've had lockrite, open, TRD posi, ARB, and welded. If you really don't want a spool, then get the detroit. ARB is the only way to go in front.

 

[IMUZ ME]

Originally posted by Hersh:
<STRONG>Big Pimp - how did you plumb around it? Did you have to buy a T fitting or just connect directly past it? I think this is an interesting idea.

Mike</STRONG>

Actually what I did was I put in a line lock! See I have an 83 yota and the brake line did not run back to the front of the truck! I got rid of all e-brake cables and handles! I cost about 42$ and I had to change the fitting on the factory brake line to standard not metric thread! Works great no more factory valve and no more e-brake cables in the way!