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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so the rear mounts, uppers and lowers are done. Yeah, I know there is no bump stop... that'll come soon. Bolts through the frame are sleeved. Upper and lower mounts are completely removeable.




 

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Discussion Starter #3
Because I have a pop who grew up racing and is into bolt on brackets....easier to fix if they get messed up. Believe me, I was tempted to just weld them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Shaker said:
Do you know if the tire "lugs" wont tear into the shock while the axle is articulating. It's hard to tell from the pic. angle....looks sweet though.......good job
I don't know for sure. That is why the RS9000s are on there right now, as they are already beat up some. Also, I am going to a 15x10 wheel which *should* provide some more tire to shock tube clearance. As soon as I can get the axle crossed up, I'll know more :D
 

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Looks good and really similar to mine. I added a tab and bolt through the tub at the top end and have the shock mounted at ~ 15 degree angle toward the front which really makes a big difference with clearance when crossed up.
Aren't the 9000s supposed to be mounted with the other end up?
 

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Looks good....since we are on the topic, what do you think about mounting shocks like this.... / \ ??

I have been pondering it on my ranger, its not a DD, but I still like to drive it once in awhile to show it off.....:flipoff2:

But seriously, thats a great design.
 

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Under full droop are you going to have enough clearance on the frame. Looks like the shock body "could" contact the frame if it pulls in when drooped (ie lateral movement of axle under flex)
 
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