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Discussion Starter #1
so heres what ive got goin. my fj40 has 40 springs on the front with liquid industries slider boxes and its sitting on 1 tons, i did this to keep it pretty low. i want my wheel base to be about 110-115". this whole thing is in the build process and is now gaining steam again due to a move to a place with a shop. so im trying to figure out what i want to do in the rear. ive got s10 springs in the rear right now. i want a good driver,it will be driven alot. i really like the allure of a 4 link tho. and then i was thinking about 63" chevy springs. so ive never done a 4 link, the angles and measurments are alot to wrap my head around. and is the off road/ride quality that much better than leafs? is the 4 link setup too much for a newb to fabrication? with a 4 link i was thinking just coil springs and shocks, what are good springs to use? i was thinking tj or jk springs?
 

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My 55 has the LI slider boxes front and rear using 1999 Tahoe leaf springs(54"??) It is sitting on D60s front/rear.

I love it on road and daily drive ~50 miles a day round trip. It handles 70-75mph with no problems

When fc187 installed the fronts and did the fork lift flex test, it looked like decent articulation even with the stockish rear 55 sway bar installed. :homer:

I went Tahoes because they are readily available new and only had two types available(# leaves)

When I did the rears first, it smoothed the ride out going from stock FJ55 rear springs. The fronts smoothed it out a bit more.

For the front, I kept the fixed end of the spring at the rear just like stock:mr-t:

I definitely wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
 

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how much did you extend the wheelbase with the stock 40 springs when you redid them. Stock is 90". Assuming you've gained 3-5 inches up front, your rear axle needs to move 15" or more rearward. Links may be the best option.

63s would be entirely too long for a 40. I would lean towards F150's(57" iirc) as well, they would probably give your the shortest rear overhang with the short side of the spring to the rear. shackles off the rear of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i did shackle reversal with short side of spring forward on the front. so 3-5 is probably accurate. as for rear its kinda a conglomeration of shit. i bought got a bunch of stuff for my fj, 5.3 lq9, 37s, bunch crap to link the thing minus the coilovers. well i cut off part part of the rear frame, then lost motivation, was working on the side of the house and didnt have the extra cash. that was about 3 years ago. sold 90% of the link stuff, the 5.3, 37s. thought id never finish it. fast forward to now. bought a house with a shop. bought a plasma cutting, tube bender, tube notcher, so now im back at it a little. basically my goal was street legal truggyish fj40. i still have a couple brackets and some 2x.25 dom with welded in rod end adapters bout 34" long. i would like to pick up some fj60 front springs for the bigger eyes as well. i dont know. im more inclined to work on it now that it will be in my nice heated shop all winter. so maybe i can be patient and link it
 

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I did the same setup without the LI boxes. For the rear I ran Ranger Springs. They are LONG and the centering pin is seriously ofset. My wheelbase was right at 108. I would not run the ranger sprigns again, but Iwould go F150's for the rear.

I have 4 linked the rear since then. The work is not all that bad, and I should have done that first and saved the money

Dima
 

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Discussion Starter #7
id like to do a 4 link, the fabing isnt really what im worried about. its all the geometry that is a bit overwelming. what are good coil spring to find?
 

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KJ Stock front springs.

Same as a TJ spring with more spring rate and length. They work great.
 

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Yeah, that's what I meant. I won't say I did not screw it up myself tho :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so as for link length, i was thinkin about 36" lowers and 27" uppers, keeping a 75% ratio. mostly triangulating the uppers, and lightly triangulating the lowers at about 10 degrees
 

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With the narrow cruiser frame, I would triangulate both as much as you can, better roll characteristics as well.
 

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so as for link length, i was thinkin about 36" lowers and 27" uppers, keeping a 75% ratio. mostly triangulating the uppers, and lightly triangulating the lowers at about 10 degrees
I just did mine a few weeks ago. Look at my build, I have pics on there.

As for length... I have my tops at about 38 and bottoms at 46 (if I remember correctly). My wheelbase is 108

Dima
 
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