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Okay, i have a rearend from a 78 scoutII. When i cleaned it up awhile back, i noticed it had tapered roller bearings. When I went to Advance to get some Set 10's, i saw that they are cylindrical roller bearings. Whats up? What other bearings were offered in the scouts? were there any retrofit kits for tapered roller bearings, and what is the bearing part number? I want to get this thing taken care of! Thanks for any help!

D-bolt
 

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The new bearing you recieved is the "revised" new and improved style. The tapered bearing exerts outward pressure on the axle at all time where as the new bearing just supports the weight. If you've ever blown a rear bearing out it tends to shoot the axle out from the housing. The new style won't do this. You do have to replace the bearing and race, though to go to the new style
 

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Wrong!

Tapered roller bearings must be used otherwise you'll loose an axle. The flat rollers are made to support weight with no lateral force, they will fail in the rear axle. Even the people at Timken said not to use the flat roller bearings...

This has been discussed to death on the BB...
See this discussion
BB
If your bearing looks like this it's the correct type

 

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So let's get your definition of a "Tapered Roller Bearing".

The bearings themselves are cylindrical...but in a tapered orientation to the centerline of the bearing assembly.

Maybe I am not understanding your problem. I assumed SET10 meant exactly what you needed.


Anyway NEPS picture says it all....anyone else?
 

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You want Timkin set-10 PIRIOD!!!:D BTDT Seems ,depending where you go, all counter clown want to give you a BR 10.WRONG!!Only taper for our rigs.:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :)
 

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Get Timkin SET-10's (the tapered ones... Timken actually made a strainght roller SET-10 and a tapered roller SET-10. You want the tapered ones) and do not use the inner seal. Let the gear oil keep them lubed.
 

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morpheus said:
ok. thanks. went to the parts store last night and the parts monkey gave me the straight roller one and I was quite confused.

Edit: how do I get the parts monkey to get me the tapered roller Set-10 ? cause you know if it's not on the computer screen he's not going to have a clue ...

- jack
You have to go to a parts store that sells Timken bearings.

www.autozone.com
 

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Autozone is where I got mine too, they were the tapered ones. I don't think you will be able to beat their price at $19/set either. That even includes the new retainer ring as well. Just add an outer seal to that and you're set. Don't settle for the straight rollers. MAKE them order you some of the tapered ones.
 

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quick tip,
If you have any problems pulling the races run a real hot bead on the race, fawker will fall right out....

OBTW,

. You do have to replace the bearing and race, though to go to the new style
Why would you ever change a bearing but not the race?? Trail fix, maybe, but that is the only good reason I can think of :confused:
 

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weird.. I've been running the non tapered set-10 roller for 2 years now with no problems. :confused:
 

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Non Tapered

sceep said:
weird.. I've been running the non tapered set-10 roller for 2 years now with no problems. :confused:
Sure, keep it lubed properly, and you won't have any problems. But, when it goes bad, the axle can pull right out through the backing plate. It is not that it goes bad any sooner, as much as it is that if it goes bad, it goes catastophically bad. The tapered bearings will burn up, but they won't pull out of the axle. I roasted mine a couple months ago, nothing but chunks left, but it did not fall out...
 

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Re: Non Tapered

Hooper said:


Sure, keep it lubed properly, and you won't have any problems. But, when it goes bad, the axle can pull right out through the backing plate. It is not that it goes bad any sooner, as much as it is that if it goes bad, it goes catastophically bad. The tapered bearings will burn up, but they won't pull out of the axle. I roasted mine a couple months ago, nothing but chunks left, but it did not fall out...

strange again...... i put the rollers in because last time i had a taper fail i was doing 45 on a paved road with no gard rail and a 100' dropoff on the side when the taperd bearing let go and blew my drivers axle out the side of the truck. Let me tell you.. that was NOT cool.:eek:
 

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TORC said:
Autozone is where I got mine too, they were the tapered ones. I don't think you will be able to beat their price at $19/set either. That even includes the new retainer ring as well. Just add an outer seal to that and you're set. Don't settle for the straight rollers. MAKE them order you some of the tapered ones.
I went back to autozone last night and the parts guy was like. that bearing there is all we got dude. A set10 is a set10 dude. What do I do to get the parts moron to find the right part ?

- jack
 

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Ask them to order in a couple more sets of the SET-10's. They should of had to order in some replacements for the ones you bought anyhow. If he's still not convinced, tell him to call Timkin and talk to one of the engineers there. They will tell him that Timkin did in fact make straight roller SET-10's and tapered roller SET-10's. If the counter dick still won't budge, just shove those straight rollers up his ass and go order some new bearings off the website.
 

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Just to clear things up a bit.....the rear axle shouldn't have inner axle seals. The housing vents from the tubes so the diff should be able to vent through the tubes. Also this lets oil reach the wheel bearings. I stand by my previous statement as I build axles for a living: the straight bearing is a improved design despite what might be posted in BB. As far as what "Timkin" said: don't know how you heard that but the Timkin I deal with sends us the strtaight bearings now.

I blew 5 tapered rear bearings as well as seen 10 more fail on trucks over the years and they do have a tendency to push the axle from the housing due to their tapered design. Once the straight bearings were introduced, I ran those for 4 years without trouble from the bearing till I upgraded to 1-tons. Personally, I think you're beating a dead horse. Put the straight bearings in and be done with it!
 

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Interesting

I build axles for a living
I find it interesting that when a person is "employed" for a job they become an expert? Although all of us have had to deal with the counter monkey who can't tell a spark plug from a rotor, but they do it "for a living" too.

No offense, I just tend to believe the engineers at Timken and Dana Spicer over your opinion.
 
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