Ive got an '82 yota and Im putting the rears up front, moving the axle forward about 2 inches and moving the ifs steering box forward to mach the axle. I was told that all-pros hysteer wont clear the springs. Is anybody running this setup? can I run heim joints at the ends to fix this? does anybody have pics?
mine clears easily...i think the clearance issue they were referring to was the drag link TRE at the pitman bumping tierod below it on compression? but your addressing that by moving the box forward...
well.... I just installed the hysteer and just like I suspected the tierod hits the leafs. So my question now is... if I build spacers on the arms, does anybody make hyms that fit allpros tierod?
well.... I just installed the hysteer and just like I suspected the tierod hits the leafs. So my question now is... if I build spacers on the arms, does anybody make hyms that fit allpros tierod?
i am running a six leaf pack with 2.5 degree shims, rears up front, AP hysteer. axle 3.5" forward.
the tie rod hits the spring on full passenger droop only.
Ive got a custom 7 leaf pack with shims, and it hits the tierod. Ive thought about pulling a leaf, but if I could build spacers for the knuckle arms and run hyms that seams lilke the way to go
Are you talking about spacing the hysteer arms away from the knuckle. You do realize they locate the upper bearing on the knuckle too, right, and they set the preload on the bearing. I'm running modified 6 leaf rears and AP hysteer arms and have more than 2" of clearance between the spring and tie rod. My springs are flat and I don't have any shims.
The shim rotates the axle. Because it's directly connected to the hysteer arm, the hysteer arm is rotated down toward the ground, and is closer to the leaf pack than it should be.
YOu can either remove the shim, remove a leaf, or pursue your present line of thought and get the tie rod & draglink up higher. The end of the drag link that bolts to the passenger's steering arm will likely rub if the tie rod rubs, FYI.
i am using an fj60 tierod and ends for my tierod. i am using 3/4" heim joints for the drag link. my tie rod clears just fine but my drag link hits the frame on compression. it clears now. the frame bent it a little. just enough and now i don't hit on anything. i think i have about 3" of lift. i used my old rear pack up front with an add a leaf. i removed the shims because they were causing the tierod to hit the springs. i had 6* shims.
As was already mentioned, build yourself a dropped front hanger. This will drop the front of the springs down and allow you to get rid of the shim, which will move the tie rod away from the springs.
Each inch you drop either end of the spring will change the caster roughly 1 degree. So to get rid of your 2.5* shim, build a 2" or so drop hanger.
And as a side benefit, the drop hanger will also give you more spring to pitman arm/drag link clearance.
Another thing to do is cut and turn your knuckles so you can point your pinion up at the t-case and set your caster where you want it, which will also get rid of the shim and get the tie rod off the springs.
I don't know why more people don't do this. Its almost SOP on a d44...
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!
just enough and now i don't hit on anything. i think i have about 3" of lift. i used my old rear pack up front with an add a leaf. i removed the shims because they were causing the tierod to hit the springs. i had 6* shims.
