Ive got an '82 yota and Im putting the rears up front, moving the axle forward about 2 inches and moving the ifs steering box forward to mach the axle. I was told that all-pros hysteer wont clear the springs. Is anybody running this setup? can I run heim joints at the ends to fix this? does anybody have pics?
rears and hy-steer
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mine clears easily...i think the clearance issue they were referring to was the drag link TRE at the pitman bumping tierod below it on compression? but your addressing that by moving the box forward...
IT'LL BE 1/8" CLOSE,BUT WILL WORK!
Just do a 2"drop hanger
or order the cool All-Pro pitman arm too that takes a hym.
i run a 4"IFS yota bump stop off a ifs rig and work o.k. till i build a 2"drop hanger soon maybe.
Center of Gravity is low with the 35"
like alot,
Just add some extra leafs too the rear pack,
I put grease in the leafs with a old paint brush ,
No sqeeks ,like coils,
85 runner rides like a big ol -burb
just my .03
Hope this help ed ya.
Save your $$$ for the 17" or so long spline drive shaft and then get the H.Pinon Toy e-locker or ARB like us.
worth the $$$$, too.
Just do a 2"drop hanger
or order the cool All-Pro pitman arm too that takes a hym.
i run a 4"IFS yota bump stop off a ifs rig and work o.k. till i build a 2"drop hanger soon maybe.
Center of Gravity is low with the 35"
like alot,
Just add some extra leafs too the rear pack,
I put grease in the leafs with a old paint brush ,
No sqeeks ,like coils,
85 runner rides like a big ol -burb
just my .03
Hope this help ed ya.
Save your $$$ for the 17" or so long spline drive shaft and then get the H.Pinon Toy e-locker or ARB like us.
worth the $$$$, too.
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27,885 Posts
did you use a 2" or greater drop hanger? with that and an appropriately mounted bumpstop you should be clear and the springs will last....
EDIT: the springs hit the tierod??
EDIT: the springs hit the tierod??
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777 Posts
how thick of a spring pack are you running for the leafes to hit the tierod??
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1,988 Posts
Are you talking about spacing the hysteer arms away from the knuckle. You do realize they locate the upper bearing on the knuckle too, right, and they set the preload on the bearing. I'm running modified 6 leaf rears and AP hysteer arms and have more than 2" of clearance between the spring and tie rod. My springs are flat and I don't have any shims.
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12,996 Posts
The shim rotates the axle. Because it's directly connected to the hysteer arm, the hysteer arm is rotated down toward the ground, and is closer to the leaf pack than it should be.
YOu can either remove the shim, remove a leaf, or pursue your present line of thought and get the tie rod & draglink up higher. The end of the drag link that bolts to the passenger's steering arm will likely rub if the tie rod rubs, FYI.
YOu can either remove the shim, remove a leaf, or pursue your present line of thought and get the tie rod & draglink up higher. The end of the drag link that bolts to the passenger's steering arm will likely rub if the tie rod rubs, FYI.
i am using an fj60 tierod and ends for my tierod. i am using 3/4" heim joints for the drag link. my tie rod clears just fine but my drag link hits the frame on compression. it clears now. the frame bent it a little.
just enough and now i don't hit on anything. i think i have about 3" of lift. i used my old rear pack up front with an add a leaf. i removed the shims because they were causing the tierod to hit the springs. i had 6* shims.
heres how it is now.
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just enough and now i don't hit on anything. i think i have about 3" of lift. i used my old rear pack up front with an add a leaf. i removed the shims because they were causing the tierod to hit the springs. i had 6* shims.heres how it is now.
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9,385 Posts
As was already mentioned, build yourself a dropped front hanger. This will drop the front of the springs down and allow you to get rid of the shim, which will move the tie rod away from the springs.
Each inch you drop either end of the spring will change the caster roughly 1 degree. So to get rid of your 2.5* shim, build a 2" or so drop hanger.
And as a side benefit, the drop hanger will also give you more spring to pitman arm/drag link clearance.
Another thing to do is cut and turn your knuckles so you can point your pinion up at the t-case and set your caster where you want it, which will also get rid of the shim and get the tie rod off the springs.
I don't know why more people don't do this. Its almost SOP on a d44...
Each inch you drop either end of the spring will change the caster roughly 1 degree. So to get rid of your 2.5* shim, build a 2" or so drop hanger.
And as a side benefit, the drop hanger will also give you more spring to pitman arm/drag link clearance.
Another thing to do is cut and turn your knuckles so you can point your pinion up at the t-case and set your caster where you want it, which will also get rid of the shim and get the tie rod off the springs.
I don't know why more people don't do this. Its almost SOP on a d44...
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