[ISUZUROVER]

i have been told that stainless rods would also be suitable.

I have successfully used stainless rod to weld stainless to mild steel, and stainless to other steels.

I have recently been to some important historic military sites such as the Ardennes in Belgium (Battle of the bulge) and the Marginot Line in France. I have had the opportunity to examine a number of German and American tanks. Interestingly, all the original welds were done with stainless welding rods (even though the rest of the tank is normal steel). I assume it was because some sections were hardened sheet steel and others were cast steel, but even when similar metals have been joined stainless rods were used.

 

[ISUZUROVER]

So PT - what is happening? I read in another post you said business has become very slow at the moment - sorry to hear that but it sounds like the perfect time to go hard at it with the crawler...

:flipoff2:

 

[PTSchram]

So PT - what is happening? I read in another post you said business has become very slow at the moment - sorry to hear that but it sounds like the perfect time to go hard at it with the crawler...

:flipoff2:

Waiting for Shopboy 2 to come over and begin measuring...

Bidness comes, bidness goes. I'll be wrenching on a 2000 Jaguar this morning! :grinpimp:

 

[wilsby]

I'll be wrenching on a 2000 Jaguar this morning! :grinpimp:

I think you just won the lotto. The Jag boys charge $200/h here. Keep it for a few days!

 

[ashtrans]

not that easy, this Underdrive stuff !

 

[pendy]

not that easy, this Underdrive stuff !

Amen

 

[Grimace]

you can do it ! ! ! c'mon ppl dont give up......

 

[Michael Rangie]

Looks like I can get new input gear made with gear to suit q/trac made for around $12-1500 au including new shaft (ZF tthrough to Q/trac).

looking at the adaptor plate now.

wont be quick but should have it up and runnningby mid next year.

Michael.

 

[portalrover]

PTs,Do you have any progress reports on the crawler box conversion ? I had 2 people last week who incorrectly assumed that I would spend what littl free time I get to myself these days to ''knock up'' their conversion kits for them.
I would like to pass the buck on to you but you have been very quiet on the subject lately.
Bill.

 

[Dougal]

I have successfully used stainless rod to weld stainless to mild steel, and stainless to other steels.

I have recently been to some important historic military sites such as the Ardennes in Belgium (Battle of the bulge) and the Marginot Line in France. I have had the opportunity to examine a number of German and American tanks. Interestingly, all the original welds were done with stainless welding rods (even though the rest of the tank is normal steel). I assume it was because some sections were hardened sheet steel and others were cast steel, but even when similar metals have been joined stainless rods were used.

If it's austenitic stainless (300 series) then it normally lays in soft but strain hardens quite well. So cracking isn't as much of problem but the strength is still there. I've only had cracking problems arc welding high stength (prob high carbon) parts. I just mig together anything that might be dodgy.

 

[UPOVR]

Do you think it would be easier to do this conversion on a divorced LT 230? I want to run a SM465 in front of mine like slades. I'm wondering...a 4wd SM465 has a 10 spline output. Or depending on how long this thing is (see link) along w/ a yoke for the divorced set up maybe get something to work. I've been posting want ads for some junk BW1339's!

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/8122705.htm

 

[RoverDan]

Bill, I'm just getting back to the crawler for my series truck and I have another question. What did you do, if anything, to handle longitudinal movement of the cylindrical output gear? Your pics on outerlimits seem to show a thrust surface machined on your adapter plate.

Thanks, Dan

 

[portalrover]

Dan, Forward thrust is taken by the stock Fairey overdrive needle thrust bearing between its input shaft and the matching thrust face on the cylidrical output gear. Rearward thrust is taken by adding another needle thrust bearing pack between the rear of cylidrical output gear and front of quadratrac input gear/sleeve. I also fitted an old bearing cup to the adaptor plate as a snubber to keep the planetaries from sliding forward under the weight of gravity when they are stationary with the truck parked facing downhill. It doesn't do anything when the transmission is working, I just didn't want the planetaries resting against aluminium.
Bill.

 

[RoverDan]

Thanks Bill, that makes sense. I knew I was missing something simple. It was the one internal needle thrust bearing I forgot about.

 

[portalrover]

UpRover, That shaft is too short to adapt the LT 230, but a much longer copy of it would be usefull . I am not that familiar with the sm465 box.The Chevrolet trucks of that era were not big sellers over here. Dodge, International and Ford were the big players. I have adapted New Process 435 and Warner T98's to series T/cases before.Most of these in OZ have ten spline mainshafts of similar pattern to Series Rover mainshafts, only slightly larger in the major an minor diameters, so it is relatively easy to make the Rover t/case gear fit. I did adapt a NP435 to an LT230 by modifying a Marks Adaptors Turbo 400 to LT230 adaptor housing and spudshaft, but the spudshaft needs to be longer to reach back into the Quadratrac input gear.
PTs Shram didn't respond to my last enquiry on this thread about the conversion kit he was working on so maybe he has put it in the too hard basket.
Bill.

 

[pendy]

PTs Shram didn't respond to my last enquiry on this thread about the conversion kit he was working on so maybe he has put it in the too hard basket.
Bill.

For the nearsighteed impaired.
Bill paragraphs are your freinds.
PT :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

 

[PTSchram]

I'm still waiting for Shopboy 2 to recover from his divorce and the fallout from that shit.

Also, I will be picking up a shitload of parts in the near future and hope to obtain some Fairey parts to experiment with.

It's not too hard, BUT, I can't do all of the machining in-house and the shops I have access to who will entertain the project are way to fawkin' expensive.

I left a message for Shopboy 2 earlier today.

 

[Grimace]

So any closer idea on the $$$ cost to me (the end user).
HSV Rangie - you still out there ? ? ? I will PM oyu on OL and keep intouch :smokin:
RoverDan - Have you got a near finished unit ? ? ?

Cant wait for sumthing to become available :grinpimp:


Cheers
Anthony

 

[RoverDan]

Grimace, I'm no where near finished yet. I got stalled for quite a while. I'm just getting back in the game. I think I may have found someone I can prey upon to do the machine work for me without going broke. I'm not sure I'll be able to get more than this one unit done, if that, but I hope to end up with some good measurements that I'll gladly share.

Dan

 

[PTSchram]

I got the parts, but the laptop with the working USB port won't talk nicely to the wireless router.

I have a huge pile of assorted Series transmission parts with lots of pieces that fit both the LT-230 output and the B-W planetary box.

Don't hold your breath, but I have much more to work with now.