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How hard is rebuilding a 22re engine for a 88 toyota p\u? What is involved and what tools are required? 
The engine has about 180k miles on it.
The engine has about 180k miles on it.
Rebuilding a 22re
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not too hard if you know what your doing.
The only special tools I can think of are a ring compressor, torqe wrench, puller for the front pully.... thats if you take it in and get in machined.. I am sure I am leaving something out but thats all I can think of right now
The only special tools I can think of are a ring compressor, torqe wrench, puller for the front pully.... thats if you take it in and get in machined.. I am sure I am leaving something out but thats all I can think of right now
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If you've rebuilt any engine before a 22R is easier. If you've never rebuilt an engine before this is a damn easy way to learn next to a chainsaw engine.
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This is my first time rebuilding an engine. I checked and a rebuild kit costs around $500.00 or so. Will i need a lift to take the engine out?
I am in the same boat and considering the same question. My rings are pretty much shot (blowby out the filler cap is ridiculous, and the oil gets black in about 750 miles after an oil change) and I have wicked timing chain noise (time for a replacement). A buddy of mine is of the opinion it may be both cheaper and faster to buy and install a rebuilt motor instead of replacing the timing chain and doing the machining work. My sense is he is right. Any input?
I did my 22RE myself and it was my first, it's real easy and I must have got it all right, it has over 15K on it, maybe more. Get a manual, I used a Haynes, but a Toyota one would be better, now that i have one. (need a haynes, you have have mine if I still have it)
Just go slow and ask questions, if you have them. I had my block cleaned, bored 0.020 over, head decked and inspected, all the bearings, gaskets, pistons, crank (exchanged) for $750 out the door. Not to bad really. I didn't do any performance mods either, and glad I did not.
Just go slow and ask questions, if you have them. I had my block cleaned, bored 0.020 over, head decked and inspected, all the bearings, gaskets, pistons, crank (exchanged) for $750 out the door. Not to bad really. I didn't do any performance mods either, and glad I did not.
I chipped my head on the 22re and ended up doing complete rebuild. I had originally planned on leaving the block in the rig, and but there was a funky ridge in #3 cylinder, so I also had it bored 0.020 over, and decked the head for straightness. that was about 200$ in machine work.
It wasnt that bad, but I could have easily cut 20 hours off of the job if i would have used about 100 ziplock bags and label everything in SMALL steps. Instead I ended up with a bucket of bolts that I had to sort through. Taking pictures might have also helped. I did label the wires and vacum lines....which you should also do.
I think my total was about 1K$ but that included a new head, and the mentioned machine work. I used the engnebldr.com rebuild kit and it is running fine. You might consider using a better quality head gasket. I sprayed every gasket with the copper aerosal stuff, and I think it helps turn medium quality gaskets into higher quality ones.
The hardest part is the EFI stuff. Once thats off, you might as well do a complete rebuild....so you dont have to go in there for another 200K miles.
**EDIT** I also threw in a new clutch and re-surfaced the fly wheel. New hoses, plugs, wires, distrib. cap/ too. You might also want to hook up an oil pressure sender because its more useful then the dummy-light. The $$$ adds up quickly, but like I said, do it right=do it once.
-GReg
It wasnt that bad, but I could have easily cut 20 hours off of the job if i would have used about 100 ziplock bags and label everything in SMALL steps. Instead I ended up with a bucket of bolts that I had to sort through. Taking pictures might have also helped. I did label the wires and vacum lines....which you should also do.
I think my total was about 1K$ but that included a new head, and the mentioned machine work. I used the engnebldr.com rebuild kit and it is running fine. You might consider using a better quality head gasket. I sprayed every gasket with the copper aerosal stuff, and I think it helps turn medium quality gaskets into higher quality ones.
The hardest part is the EFI stuff. Once thats off, you might as well do a complete rebuild....so you dont have to go in there for another 200K miles.
**EDIT** I also threw in a new clutch and re-surfaced the fly wheel. New hoses, plugs, wires, distrib. cap/ too. You might also want to hook up an oil pressure sender because its more useful then the dummy-light. The $$$ adds up quickly, but like I said, do it right=do it once.
-GReg
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So after how many miles should you rebuild it if it is still running ok?
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22RE rebuilding
I am in the process of rebuilding a 22RE right now and I can tell u first hand it isn't cheap. Here's what I have spent on certain items/machine work so far. Head resurfaced, hot tanked, valve job, new exhaust valves and guides installed, and factory valve seals--172.50 Block bored .020 and honned cleaned and resurfaced, crank turned, rods resized-- 233.80 Flywheel turned-- 40.00 22RE Master rebuild kit with new head bolts,new waterpump,recond. rocker arms-- 409.00 from engnbldr.com and that is not counting all the little crap that u don't even consider. But I look at it like this that is a cheap price for an easy 200000 miles. Beats walkin'. If your motor is not running up to par the first thing I would do is to run a compression check, this will tell you if you even need to do a rebuild or look for problems elsewhere. The info can be found in the haynes maint. manual Min. compression is 128 non-turbo.Bag and tag like 4x4runner said it takes a little time compared to a lot of hassle. Hope this helps Ron
I am in the process of rebuilding a 22RE right now and I can tell u first hand it isn't cheap. Here's what I have spent on certain items/machine work so far. Head resurfaced, hot tanked, valve job, new exhaust valves and guides installed, and factory valve seals--172.50 Block bored .020 and honned cleaned and resurfaced, crank turned, rods resized-- 233.80 Flywheel turned-- 40.00 22RE Master rebuild kit with new head bolts,new waterpump,recond. rocker arms-- 409.00 from engnbldr.com and that is not counting all the little crap that u don't even consider. But I look at it like this that is a cheap price for an easy 200000 miles. Beats walkin'. If your motor is not running up to par the first thing I would do is to run a compression check, this will tell you if you even need to do a rebuild or look for problems elsewhere. The info can be found in the haynes maint. manual Min. compression is 128 non-turbo.Bag and tag like 4x4runner said it takes a little time compared to a lot of hassle. Hope this helps Ron
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I know this fool.... How is it that he has not yet been flamed?
Do I need to take the engine out to rebuild it? This is what he just asked me....
You guys are getting weak. I got yelled at for asking why a coildover spring is smaller (width).... Please....
Do I need to take the engine out to rebuild it? This is what he just asked me....
You guys are getting weak. I got yelled at for asking why a coildover spring is smaller (width).... Please....
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Seth...im new at this how the fuck else am i going to get help? So STFU!!
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