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Discussion Starter #1
any of you rebuilt a scout II steering box?, hows the Napa kit?or what kit should I buy.... the Napa power steering box isn't a bad price? any of you running one? is it a good box? its hard for me to dump a grand into a Howell or Agr set up... also can you revalve a scout box for easier turning when rebuilding one...Ive been told you can't revalve one.....input please!!! I'm out of good steering boxes
 

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I just did it, not too bad. Couple of tips:

Chances are you will not be able to tell the balls apart when you pull the rack. You may want to source new ones.

Second the seals on the piston are a beetch to get in, you might want to have a pot of hot water near by to shrink the seals after you pull them over the piston

Before you install the piston screw the thread shaft into the piston back-wards, this will hold the balls in place while you tap the piston home. Make sure you use lot's of assembly lube or Vaseline.
 

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Were you able to tell your balls apart? :flipoff2:

Got a source for new ones? According to the manual, if you have too much slop in the box, you may have to go to the next size bigger one set of the balls to take up the slop, so I would assume that they are available somewhere.
 

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Check my website

Got a short write up on my website about this along with a few pictures. Just goto 'How to by: Kelly Rives' and 'Steering box'.

http://www.jpeater/com
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the input and some links to help with the rebuild, and yes I will port the box for hydro and just cap them off till I use them....
 

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My rebuild kit just showed up yesterday.... I will also be tackling this project shortly.
 

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The napa kits are OK just make sure they send you a kit that has the Metal adjuster cap seal and not just the rubber O-ring one.
If you need a kit i keep a dozen or so in stock and can make you a deal on one
I get a good price on the kits so i only charge 100 for the rebuilds.
 

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Tore my PS box down last night. Didn't have any problems... was very easy to disassemble. I bought the Powercraft #7858 kit (was what the auto store listed for the Scout II application) but I found that it was missing one bearing. The kit just has one output shaft bearing (most saginaw boxes have a short output shaft I guess) but the Scout II box has a mile long output shaft and has an upper and a lower bearing. I need to find out if the two bearings are the same or not and track down the other bearing.

I had no problems determining the color of the balls though.... it was pretty clear in my case:

It's pretty obvious (at least I thought so) where the box needs to be tapped and every picture I've seen so far would put the ports right up next to the engine mount where they would be impossible to access without taking the box off the frame. I identified locations that will make the ports easily accessible on the the Scout II and will be tapping in those locations..... more pics to come when I get it tapped (probably won't happen till Friday evening).
 

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Matt at WTO tells me that the upper and lower sector shaft bearings are the same. Now for another question.... I have the the 1980 PS Box which has the metric o-ring fittings instead of the flare fittings. Does anyone know where I can find adapters to go from the metric o-ring to AN fittings? What is a JIC fitting?
 

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TORC said:
Does anyone know where I can find adapters to go from the metric o-ring to AN fittings? What is a JIC fitting?
You can get the o-ring to AN adapters here:
http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/special2.html#carb

JIC fittings are 37 degree hydraulic fittings. Usually made of steel due to the high pressure in these systems. There about 1/2 the cost of aluminum AN fittings.
 

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Cool... thanks.:beer: Of course virtually all the other fittings I need can be had in steel. The only metic PS o-ring to AN fittings they have listed are aluminum, but at least they do have them. Now I need to throw the calipers on the fittings tonight to see what size they are. Picking up the second sector shaft bearing (the one missing from the rebuild kit) today and I'll finish tapping and rebuilding the box tonight.
 

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TORC said:
Cool... thanks.:beer: Of course virtually all the other fittings I need can be had in steel. The only metic PS o-ring to AN fittings they have listed are aluminum, but at least they do have them. Now I need to throw the calipers on the fittings tonight to see what size they are. Picking up the second sector shaft bearing (the one missing from the rebuild kit) today and I'll finish tapping and rebuilding the box tonight.
I found steel o-ring to #6AN adatpers.

Part # 101220
and 101230
http://www.performancebodies.com/2002 catalog/steering/steering.html#fittings

Or

at www.performancebodies.com
There~$10.00
 

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Discussion Starter #18
TORC said:
Cool... thanks.:beer: Of course virtually all the other fittings I need can be had in steel. The only metic PS o-ring to AN fittings they have listed are aluminum, but at least they do have them. Now I need to throw the calipers on the fittings tonight to see what size they are. Picking up the second sector shaft bearing (the one missing from the rebuild kit) today and I'll finish tapping and rebuilding the box tonight.
sounds like you got it going on, like donkey kong!!!! post some pics of the tap areas... thanks
 

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Well, so much for an easy rebuild of the PS box. The task itself is not bad at all... pretty easy actually. It seems the difficultly with doing this job was getting the right parts. Let's just say that I am wwaaaaayyyy less than thrilled with the Powercraft kits.

Problem 1) As I mentioned in posts above, the rebuild kits come with one sector shaft bearing. Most Saginaw PS boxes only use one bearing, but since the Scout II PS box has such a long sector shaft, it uses two bearings... an upper and a lower. I'm having trouble sourcing this bearing individually. If I would have known this ahead of time, I would have only replaced the worse of the two bearings.

Problem 2) The parts in the kits are of good quality, it just seems that all the fawkin' kits are mislabeled from Powercraft. The problem lies in the 3/4" or 13/16" input shaft. I have the 3/4" input shaft so I bought kit #7858. When I got to the adjuster plug, I noticed that the new bearing was bigger than original bearing. The new input seal and dust shield were also bigger. They are the 13/16" input shaft parts. I thought maybe my kit was mislabeled or something. I went to the parts store and had the guy pull an input shaft seal kit for the 3/4" shaft.... they were the same parts that were in my kit. So, I had him pull the 13/16" shaft seal kit and guess what.... it has the smaller 3/4" shaft parts in it. I checked with 3 major parts stores and all had them listed the same way. It seems Powercraft has all the 3/4" labeled as 13/16" and vice versa.

When I was reassembling the box, I managed to cut the teflon O-ring on the rack piston. I can't seem to get just the one O-ring, I have to buy a whole seal kit. Since I still need another sector shaft bearing and the correct input shaft bearing, seal and dust shield, I might as well just buy another complete rebuild kit for the 13/16" input shaft. That way, I'll get the correct input shaft bearing and seals for my 3/4" box. What a clusterfuck!!!!!!

Now the tapping was a piece of cake. I can't seem to find it right now, but someone just posted a pretty good picture showing the common place to tap the saginaw box. The locations in that picture would work pretty good for a Jeep or something like that, but the locations suck for a Scout II. On a Jeep, the box mounts inside the framerail so those location are readily accessible. On the Scout II, the box mounts to the outside of the framerail so those same locations are now right up against the engine mount and almost impossible to get to without taking the box off the frame. I put the port on the bottom "rib" of the box to other side so it was pointing to the outside and moved the other port from the inside up to the top. Now both ports are easily accessible without removing the damn box.

Port on the top of the box:


Port on the bottom "rib" of the box:


Here is the housing mounted on the frame. There are bright shiney new brass plugs in the tapped holes to make them stand out. Very accessible:
 

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