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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recipe for a Cheap Track / Kick Beater: Applies for 2wd or 4wd

It's sorta like a SPOA for IFS (quick & cheap) or quality by design. Look it over, think it thur, and make it happen.

1. Flip / modify the strut mount up top (search)

2. Install a set of 86 Ranger 4wd front coils up front (Flip the Ford coils top to bottom and cut 1" off of the narrow pig tail) Ex cab or Explorer will work too. Big end will be LARGE but will stay put on the lower control arm ok as is.

As pictured left to right. 1994 4dr, 99 4dr GV, Ranger, 92 Explorer +2"


3. Add a set of TJ front coils in the rear (TJ's, Xj's, ZJ's, aftermarket lift ect...) or 2" - 3" coil spacers. Jeep legnth coils will not work with out the modified upper link listed below.
Jeep Tj ft. to Kick 4dr


4. Fab up a modified upper rear link spacer at the top of the rear diff (drop 2-3" reward 1"-2") trim the wheel well to fit and add a d-shaft spacer. [glow=red,2,300]May Require welding...[/glow]






5. Adjust height with Ebay Jeep coils spacers to taste / cut the id to 2 1/4". Not necessary as the listed items should give 2" -3".
Picture of modified XJ coil spacer


6. Make sure that you have the 5.13:1 rears, Weld the rear diff. Best OPTION for Off-road.


7. Modify the Bump stops, add limit straps. O P T I O N A L

8. Get the alignment out of left field (slot/move/washer/[glow=red,2,300]weld[/glow])lower strut to knuckle bolt hole.

9. Body lifts available 2" -3" Ho-maid or Store bought (SEARCH)

10. Reinforce the idler arm, O P T I O N A L
see Zukiworld tech article "Sidekick Tech: Strengthening the Sidekick Idler Arm"


11. Add a strut tower brace and Get it on!!! O P T I O N A L

2wd & 4wd are nearly the same platform.

[glow=red,2,300]Not for use on your Daily Driver, Trail trucks only![/glow] Steering and CV angles will be (NOT IDEIAL) but useable. This lift may require a tie rod flip. Increased lift height & tire size will break CV's much faster. Individual results will very, trim the wheels to match your size tires, may not be street worthy. I take no claim or responsiablity for your building actions this method is not yet proven...

No I have not tried this yet, But in building my 4-dr it looks legit. Next beater 4wd Kick that comes thru get it.

MW

Gett'n er done [smirk]

 

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Good advice all around. I'm getting some 2" spacers made up for my trackick pretty soon. gonna try and flip stock steel tracker rims for less BS, and add some 31's. Welding the rear is mandatory!!!! Gonna have some towers built in the front that drops the strut upper mount about 2" down (Don't exceed that or the CV's will get worn QUICK).
I never thought of building a spacer for that top link ball joint!!! I'll have to look into that more.
These things are FUN! Mine with some armor, 30's, and a welded rear walked stuff that dual lockered on 35's rigs had trouble with!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If I remember correctly mine is a 2 1/4" headder collector flange with heavy wall tube. Bolts up to the frame mount and strut mount perfect. Cut legnth to taste. With a matched flange on each end you have a perfect strut spacer. You can weld it off set to assist with the camber issue.

My 4-dr got a custom 4" dropped all the ifs, axle, steering, ect.







 

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don't run tj or truck coils (have used on on 4 link they suck)
insted reun a progressive spring like a camaroo or ford areostart coil, way nicer ride
 
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