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Agreed. Although hardly anyone has had a problem with the lower KP bearing, I'm sure someone out there (maybe Reid Racing?) could make a lower KP bushing. When used with Blue Torch's lower kingpins, that ought to add plenty of beef.
chris dermanti(sp) here on pirate is the only post ive come across with lower KP bearing failure, and that was the race/cage not the stud on the bearing cap(which is the only upgrade with the btf parts you linked)

Sorry I wasn't very clear there. I was trying to say preload would be more critical with a bearing vs. bushing, but that's the only negative imo. I'd think the upper bearing would be stronger and wear longer if maintained. In the end it's not like you see a lot of bushing failures.
ive seen numerous broken stock KP bushings(i broke one on my tow rig and have seen a couple others broken on tow rigs) but have never seen or heard of a broken bronze bushing, imo the main problem with the stock bushings is the spring, with springless high steer arms the stock bushing is not as much of a problem.
 

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Just an update: production of the knuckles has progressed smoothly and they should be available shortly. The first run of knuckles is currently finishing machining, and the inner-Cs have started the first of their two machining operations. We thought we'd share a few photos of a preproduction knuckle next to our Dana 60/70 knuckle and our Dana 44 knuckle to illustrate the jump in size and strength with this new assembly.
 

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Any chance it will be offered sans steering arm?
No, that would require a unique casting, and most people use double-shear steering systems so having the cast-in arms is a requirement. You can always cut the arms off and grind them smooth to blend them into the body of the knuckles, and then shoot some OSHA Orange spray paint onto it.
 

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No, that would require a unique casting, and most people use double-shear steering systems so having the cast-in arms is a requirement. You can always cut the arms off and grind them smooth to blend them into the body of the knuckles, and then shoot some OSHA Orange spray paint onto it.
Will the Artec arms with tie in for the 60 sized knuckles work on these?
I think Artec makes a 6 bolt for the Solid arms, is the bolt spacing the same?
Any plans/option for a keyway (like Solid and Crane)?
Will you (Reid) offer a High steer arm?
 

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Will the Artec arms with tie in for the 60 sized knuckles work on these?
I think Artec makes a 6 bolt for the Solid arms, is the bolt spacing the same?
Any plans/option for a keyway (like Solid and Crane)?
Will you (Reid) offer a High steer arm?
We do not make steering arms because we don't want to compete against our dealers who are steering arm manufacturers. We provide our dealers with drawings as a basic starting point so they can design arms to do whatever they need them to do.

We do not machine keyways in our knuckles for a number of reasons, but it's easy for our dealers or for an end-user to machine their own keyways into the top of the knuckles and bottom of the arms and drop some flat stock into the slots if they feel that's necessary.
 

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could you explain your reasoning for this? thats not a loaded question im just honestly curious as im no engineer or anything
1) The machining cost on the knuckles would be higher.
2) The machining cost on the steering arms would be higher.
3) Manufacturers of steering arms do not request the "upgrade" to keyed knuckles.
4) Custom machining a keyway is relatively straightforward for those who insist on it.
5) Five or six ARP studs provide more than enough strength...
6) ...especially combined with a double-shear steering system which provides better distribution of torsional loads.
7) In the event of a crash that's big enough to break the steering, it's preferable to have an engineered weak link that is easily repairable (sheared highsteer studs and/or double shear bolts) than it is to have catastrophic breakage of a knuckle, steering ram, axle tube, control arms, transfer case, etc.
 

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Andrew McLaughlin broke a lower king pin in the Norra 1000 last year in his ultra 4 car, but it was a massive rock impact and something has to give.
I sheared mine off. But it was in an epic wreck so whatever.

My reid knuckles were perfect and should have turned to dust though. :laughing:
 

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I sheared mine off. But it was in an epic wreck so whatever.

My reid knuckles were perfect and should have turned to dust though. :laughing:
When you see vids of rock bouncers falling backwards and taking a full hit on one corner front tire snapping it off, if they're running aftermarket knuckles like crane,solid or Reid is it the kingpins that usually break? Do the knuckles survive? What is the normal weak link in this case? My guess would be inner C, knuckle, kingpin and spindle.
 

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Scrub Radius

Do these do away with the poor scrub radius inherent to the original bearing / kingpin design?

edit: looks like the wheel mating surface is still a good distance away from the steering axis
 

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TTT. Ready for production? Price?
Knuckles and Cs are being machined, so assemblies will be available very soon. The first batch of knuckles have come in; here's a photo of them being inspected. Cs should arrive here soon. Knuckles and Cs are priced at $489 each, so a complete set for an axle (2 knuckles, 2 Cs) will be $1956.
 

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Do these do away with the poor scrub radius inherent to the original bearing / kingpin design?

edit: looks like the wheel mating surface is still a good distance away from the steering axis
A large enough wheel with enough backspacing can make a portal box disappear, making scrub radius almost a non-issue. Worried about big knuckles? Please:



 
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