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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any advice on the best/easiest way to pull the tubes out of a housing???

I got a 10-bolt that is going to "donate" its tubes to a RC project I'm working on. I'm just wondering what the best way of acoplising this would be. I need the full length of the tube, so cutting them off is not a prefered option. Oviosly this is my first try at this.

I've heard drill/grind out the rosets and used a small bottle jack to force out the tubes. It there a better way??

I have basic tools, but no full machine shop or press (at this time <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">)

thanks
-mark
 

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I tried the "home" method myself. spent about $80+ on tooling/bits/high dollar cutters, etc. even spent about 4-5 hours
trying high-carbide cutters in my die grinder. all proved futile. I then made
a nice clamping fixture for the axle assembly
to be held onto a mill table.
then took the 2 axles I was doing to a machine shop and they cut the welds out for
me. it wasn't cheap, cost me about 125/ea
axle assembly. Even the shop owner said if
he knew how hard it would have been before he
quoted me, he would have charged me more...
air-arc is a method some shops use to burn
the rosette's out. I tried my hypertherm
1100 plazma cutter the other day on an old
housing, it blows thru the casting material
very quick, but on the side with the tube
material still in the housing, it just made
a shower of sparks right back at me. I still
persisted even to the point of burning up the
tip of the plasma gun a little. now I know
two things: plasma cutters rock, but still
have limitations, and 2, machining the welds
out is the prefered method.
to press the tubes out, I made some pucks to
be placed inside the housing and used a 30 ton enerpac power-pack set up on the first
tube, then the 50 ton press to get the shorty
tube out. it was alot of work. good luck..

another thought: If the 10 bolt housing is
not going to be re-used, just hack the outer
sides-off being carefull not to get into the
area with the tubes. just keep burning (or cutting) material away from the tubes. this
would be the easiest method possible, ( and
cheapest) since you could use oxy/acet or
a bandsaw, or plasma if you got it. or a grinder with a cutt-off wheel.. whatever.


Sherpa

[ 10-18-2001: Message edited by: Sherpa ]
 

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Unless you got that 10-bolt for free, and maybe even then... it may end up being cheaper to just buy new tube. It'll DEFINITELY be easier...

But add up the pucks, a small jack, a fixture, bits & abrasives... oh yeah, and your TIME.

Price the tube and see how bad that'll set you back.

Randii
 

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I did one and have yet to use it. I used a hole saw in a drill press to drill out the plug welds. Also if you are going to go full width you can reuse the Ford tubes, if you use a 76 and older housing. They will have weld on c-bushing mounts. After all the weld gone, find two trees. Chain the housing to one and a come-a-long to the other. Crank it tight and heat with torch, comes right out. Throw the tubes in ice, heat center, install, weld, done.

It will take time, around 10-12 hours. Good luck to ya. Just don't be like me and make it and then never use it. Want to buy one done?
 

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Originally posted by RustoleumWhite:
<STRONG>Any advice on the best/easiest way to pull the tubes out of a housing???
</STRONG>
On the tube donor, I was thinking of just putting the center section in my chop-saw and cuttin' it. Get the big chunks out of the way, then get out the 4" Makita and remove the remaining casting from the tube and clean it up.

On the HP end, I was going to drill out the rossettes all the way (don't need to worry about messing up the tubes) and work from there.

I like Sherpa's idea about the EnerPak.. since I have that new 10-ton PortaPower sitting in the corner that I haven't used yet..

Drill through the rossettes, then stick the porta-power inside and press 'em out.

Or if I have to, chop-saw the end of the Ford tubes off (relatively close to the center section), then sawzall up from the inside and split the tube.

Much like those #@$%@#% factory Scout II outer spring bushing sleeves.

Slot the tube to take some of the press-fit away, then use the porta-power to help it out.
 

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I'm suprised that only one person has mentioned that it may not even be worth your time and money to do this. Are the tubes really worth that much to you? I'd be willing to bet that you could get some new tubes that are not only stronger but haven't seen any loads for about the same price as you could get the 10 bolt tubes out for. My suggestinon is to go with new tubes that have a thicker wall thickness for strength and just put those into your new housing.
 

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Originally posted by BabyWrangle:
<STRONG>I'm suprised that only one person has mentioned that it may not even be worth your time and money to do this. Are the tubes really worth that much to you? </STRONG>
Anyone price 2.75"x.50 wall tubing lately?

2" x .120 DOM is over $5/ft here..
 

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Originally posted by RustoleumWhite:
<STRONG>Any advice on the best/easiest way to pull the tubes out of a housing???
-mark</STRONG>
Yeah, don't! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
I did it this weekend to my spun D60 and it was a MAJOR PITA! Whew, I'm glad it is done. Lots of heat and a BIG sledge...
 

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Thats why I am going with DOM tubing on my RC44, and all parts in my shaop here REALLY soon..
 

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Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Anyone price 2.75"x.50 wall tubing lately?

2" x .120 DOM is over $5/ft here..</STRONG>
OK, so that's what $25 - $35 worth of tubing? Sounds cheap when you consider the alternative.
 

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Originally posted by old jeep:
<STRONG>OK, so that's what $25 - $35 worth of tubing? Sounds cheap when you consider the alternative.</STRONG>
Well it would actually be more than that considering that price quote was for 2" .120 wall DOM tubing and although I'm not sure about what size tubing is needed for this specific application. Even if it was $10/foot for 2.75" or 3" .500 wall tubing you would still be in way under $100.
 

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A friend of mine bought the tube to make a rc 60 rear from Currie I think they charged him $10/ft. Air arc gouge is the way to go. but whatever method you use you will not want to reuse the part of the tube that was pressed into the housing. That piece of tube always seems to have big gouges in it and big holes from where you blew out the welds.
 

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Well one key thing to keeping old tube is that the seals are actually machined into the end of them. Use new DOM and you better have a way to machine in the seals. Also they are machined down just a little were they press into the housing. Got to be able to machine that as well.

To get the tubes out of the ten bolt just use a cutting torch an very carefully cut the housing away starting at the edge and working your way in to the plug welds. Work slowly and the housing should fall away before you start cutting into the tubing. It works well enough and the tubes can be tapped out with a sledgehammer once the welds are gone.

I used cobalt drill bits on the Ford housing. Started small and worked my way up in size. Then used an air grinder to remove any little bits of weld once free. It sucks and it takes forever.

But if you housing isn't cut yet you should be able to get by with only doing the short side. Just cut down your long side to whatever you need. Then retube the short side to get the long new long side. Mine was already hacked at the housing. Thats the only reason I retubed both sides.
 

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Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Anyone price 2.75"x.50 wall tubing lately?

2" x .120 DOM is over $5/ft here..</STRONG>
I just called my local steel yard (alan steel, redwood city, ca) and he doesn't carry
2.75x.5. He does carry 3" OD DOM but the thickest wall is only 1/4". 3" OD x 1/4" wall is $18 a foot though. OUCH! <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">
 

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Anyone price 2.75"x.50 wall tubing lately?
No, but with some careful shopping I came up with a 4' chunk of 3/8 wall tube with 3" ID (I think on the diameter -- don't remember for sure) for under $60.

To me, pulling the tubes looks like at least $200 worth of trouble.... and you never know that they are straight, really. Starting from new material gets you peace of mind...

...and it may not cost as much as you'd think. Definitely worth checking out, if you ask me...

Randii
 

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Well one key thing to keeping old tube is that the seals are actually machined into the end of them. Use new DOM and you better have a way to machine in the seals. Also they are machined down just a little were they press into the housing. Got to be able to machine that as well.
Yup -- good points, Mike. I don't have a suggestion for the press-fit at the housing (other than a big-ass lathe), but the seal in the tube seems easy enough -- do yourself up a little donut with the OD of the tube (minus a few thou) and the ID of the outside of the seal (minus a few thou). I lost the link, but some of the Ford circletrack guys use a slick little off-the-shelf slip-fit seal carrier that has the traditional spring-gaitered seal on the inside and a handful of o-rings on the outside. Haven't seen that for Danas but seems it would be pretty easy to make up....

Randii
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I want to thank everyone for their responses.

The RC housing I have already has the tubes cut off, I just got to pull the stubs out. I think for them I'm going to drill out the Rosettes (all the why threw the tubes) and try silting them with the saws-all like TSM suggested (though of it myself as well). See how that works.

As for the 10-bolt, its more of an experiment to see how much of a PITA is would be. I got the housing (incomplete) for free so I don't care much about it. If I screw it up, so what.

I've tried a sledge hammer <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> (man, those things are tougher that I thought). I tried my torch as well, but its not a "big" one so it wasn't very effective, but I got more gas today, so I'm going to try it some more after I drill out the welds.

New tube is defiantly a consideration. I though I would try this first, but yes, my time is worth $$, so it may be the way to go.

Got another idea as well, and I’ll share it if it works.

Thanks again, and keep the ideas/info coming.

-mark
 

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I am just about done working with an RC44. Mine had 3" tubes with the "cast in" C bushing mounts <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">

I cut the long ford tube to the length I needed and put the housing end back on...this is now the short side for those running a passenger side diff.
I didn't remove this tube...cause you don't have to.(it appears rustoleumwhite has no choice though)

The short side ford tube I had to cut about 3/4" from the diff housing cause of the C bushing casting. These castings actually replace the tube where they go...sort of weird and a PITA.
I then cut a long side tube off of a chevy 44 that had a ruined diff (tubes still good though). This was a 2 3/4" OD tube with .500 wall. I had a friend put this tube on his lathe and machine down the last few inches of the tube so it would slip inside the 3" thin wall ford tube. This worked out really slick. Even after machining the thick wall chevy D44 tube, it was still thicker than the 3" ford tube.

Shove it in, align it, weld it. (I'm at the align it stage).

PS I will NEVER NEVER cut a diff housing apart with a torch to get a tube out of it again! I did this with the left over short side tube on the chevy dana 44. What a horrible messy waste of time and gas that was! <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> The tube got ruined and I got more soot up my nose than you can imagine. The sparks and splatter shoot right back into your face and hair...IT SUCKS!
 
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