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Discussion Starter #1
i found this thread and read it.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39080&highlight=pinion+seal+replacement

my seal is leaking. i have my new one to put in. i do not have a welder, so i cannot tack weld the old nut like jay suggests. what am i marking on the nut to get it into the same position? can i just restake the old nut? can i just buy a new pinion nut and stake it? i do not want to have to set up the gears to replace this seal. it is not worth the effort since i want to replace the whole diff with a V6 diff and lower gears anyway. thanks.
 

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there is no problem with changing the seal.. Just make sure when you Put you NEW nut on that you take it down to where you don't put anymore Preload on the pinion bearings and not leaving it loose at the same time. If you don't have a inch pound torque wrench then you will be doing it by feel .. Take note how much resistance it takes to turn the pinion now and when put back together it should be very slightly harded to turn do to new seal. Trying to make sure the nut is in a the exact same place is a foolish way of doing it..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have a smaller inch-lb torque wrench. it is the clicking type. it goes down to 20 or 25 inch pounds. will that work?
 

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It's gonna be pretty hard replacing that seal with the pinion in the way, even with something like a gear puller. I would recommend dropping the 3rd member and doing it right.

If you don't want to bother with this, let it leak and keep an eye on the oil level until you get the replacement 3rd.
 

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the seal is very easy to pull with the Pinion in the way..they come right out very easy.. that torque wrench should do the trick.. I sent you a PM back:D
 

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Every seal I've pulled from a 3rd required some "creative" use of a screwdriver (knowing that I was replacing them anyways), or driving them out from the other end (after pulling the R&P). I've never seen a seal that was easy to pull...
 

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I have done a few:D and for me it has been easy... Being that I am not trying to save the old one they come right out.. A well directed Heavy screw driver lead by a BFH(BIG FUCKING HAMMER) always works for me:flipoff2:
 

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What's the problem? Take off the nut, pull seal, replace seal, tighten nut to where it feels good, stake it, and call it good.:)
 

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Pat said:
I have done a few:D and for me it has been easy... Being that I am not trying to save the old one they come right out.. A well directed Heavy screw driver lead by a BFH(BIG FUCKING HAMMER) always works for me:flipoff2:
Well yeah, but how do you get behind it to pry it out with the pinion in the way? Or do you just beat the fawk out of it until it's so misshappened that it just falls out? :D

I'm really interested, because I might need one day to pull the seal without the pinion, and I just for the life of me can't figure out how to do it.
 

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Has anyone not ever taken a flat head screwdriver, place it between the seal and third, tap in with hammer, and pry out? I do believe that it has worked for me every time. IF it scores the housing a little bit, it is easily fixed with a file.


We are talking about the seal behind the the flange with the nut and the metal seal protector right?:confused: (if this is confusing, I can take a pic real quick if need be.)
 

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TXLUGNUT said:
Has anyone not ever taken a flat head screwdriver, place it between the seal and third, tap in with hammer, and pry out? I do believe that it has worked for me every time. IF it scores the housing a little bit, it is easily fixed with a file.
Now you met someone who doesn't do that :flipoff2:

I either pry it out through the central hole (with either a screwdriver or if someone has one, a seal puller), or I drive it out from inside the 3rd with a brass drift (a long one...).

I'll climb under my rig right now and see if your technique works better :D
 

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Mind you, I believe you might have to do this is more than one place to get the desired results. Also, I forgot to add that you can "cut" the seal if you turn the screwdriver to where it will pierce the metal and tap untill you hit the seal seat.:)
 

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it is a very easy thing to do.. Yes a screw driver works just fine... But mind you I went to detail as far as putting the nut back on.. IT IS easy to over tighten the nut and once you do you will have to much preload on the bearings... So fo some one who has never done it before just tightening it up till it feels good IS NOT A GOOD HOW TO instruction.. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for all the advice. i don't care if i mangle it with a screwdriver taking it out. i am putting a new one in. i am not sure how long i will wait for the V6 third and lower gears (need the cash for the T100 SAS), so i want to get the leak fixed. i do not want to go on a fairly long trip, have it completely crater, and run dry on the highway. i also don't want to have to check the level every week. that'll get old. i think i have enough info to swap it without a problem.
 

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Another way

to get that old seal out is to run a self tapping(Tek) screw into it and then pull the seal out using the screw head! Just be careful to not go too deep :D
Works fer me :cool:
Danny
 

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They make a seal remover that has a hook on one end of it and the other end you can tap it with a hammer to pull it out.Driving it out from the other side? What are you crazy? Come on besides not being cost efective it isn't practical remove the carrier mess up the backlash adjustments and remove the pinion? Come on your wasting too much time ,plus most of these people cant set up a rear end or diff from scratch. :rolleyes:

I have done hundreds of pinion seals. rear mains ,front seals with this tool and a couple othe body shop hook tools used for pulling panels.

Make sure the seal surface is clean from varnish and crap before you install the new seal
Do like they said try to get a small but strong screw driver in there or a hook and pullit out. And put grease behind the new seal where the spring is, pack in there solid or fill the gap so when you install the seal with a hammer or socket that goes over the shaft or pipe to fit it or with the seal installer tool the spring wont come off and go into the bearing. Then makeing the nut fit tight again takes finesse,or a feel . You can use the torque wrench with a dial indicator or the one with a needle on it but not a clicker to check for preload.
Make sure you have enough drag when turning the pinion but that it dosent have to be turned with a wrench.
And then stake the nut ,and get a new nut if you can would be better but not necessary.
Don't weld the nut on , geez if you stake the nut like it was meant to it wont come loose.;)

I dont care how hard you hit the companion flange and crush the sleave more that nut wont back off if done properly period!
If you feel unsure buy a factory manual and follow it.:D

Geez take the diff apart for a pinion seal.....holy cow i gotta get a beer ...now i heard everything....
:beer: :beer: :beer:
Gary
 

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GaryGreco said:
They make a seal remover that has a hook on one end of it and the other end you can tap it with a hammer to pull it out.Driving it out from the other side? What are you crazy? Come on besides not being cost efective it isn't practical remove the carrier mess up the backlash adjustments and remove the pinion? Come on your wasting too much time ,plus most of these people cant set up a rear end or diff from scratch. :rolleyes:

Geez take the diff apart for a pinion seal.....holy cow i gotta get a beer ...now i heard everything....
:beer: :beer: :beer:
Gary
I simply said that it would be difficult to pull the seal with the pinion in place. Some people chimed in with creative ways to pull it, I thank them, if I'm ever in the position to swap the seal only, I'll try these ideas. Now, I said that everytime I've removed a seal, I either pried it out from the inside hole, or drove it out. I had the diff on a bench, being worked on anyways. I've never had a seal go bad by itself, there was always some good reason to pull the diff too (hell, at least to check the gear teeth). Finally, pulling the guts out of a diff ain't that hard, and doesn't require a full working knowledge of gear setups (how do we put Lock Rites in???). So, if this guy is willing to pull the seal, he is probably capable of pulling the guts too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pazuzu said:


So, if this guy is willing to pull the seal, he is probably capable of pulling the guts too.
i am capable, but don't want to if there is another way that works. i put in my own lock right in the T100, but cannot set up gears. i'll buy the other kind of torque wrench to check pre-load. i already have teh FSM for specs and directions.
 
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