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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some advice please, on retubing rear, 1990, 4Runner non-cv drive shafts.

These will be replacing the stock zuk drive shafts in my 87 Samurai with SPOA YJ springs, missing links front and rear, stock zuk axles and TC. The TC will have the ZOR Super Snatch cradle.

About the toy drive shafts......... I have lined up some DOM tubing to retube them with. I would just shorten them if I could, but there is taper to the shafts at both yoke ends, and I would need to make a "collar" to fit the gap between the cut tube [which has a larger diameter than at the original yoke end ] and the yoke shoulder. I don't have a lathe to do this work on, so it will be easier to just retube.

What I know;
The yoke diameter at the shoulder is 2.435"
The tube I have is; 2.750" OD x .156" wall x 2.438" ID.
The yokes should fit this tube pretty well and tightly.
That I have to make a jig to ensure that yokes are true to the tube.
That the yokes will need to be true to .003" run out before welding.
That the yokes need to be "in phase" with each other.
That I will tack weld the yoke to tube, and recheck / adjust run out.
Use heat / cooling to adjust tube run out after welding both yokes.
That if true enough, balancing *should* be unnecessary.

Now for my questions;
How accurately "in phase" do the yokes have to be? I know just eyeballing it ain't good enough.

How do I best make a jig to true the yoke / tube and weld in place on the jig? Looking for ideas here.

I am thinking of taking the u joints off the yokes, so I can use the "centers" at each end. There is one "center" on the non slip yoke just behind the u joint, and another at the other end of the toy shaft on the spline tip. I could use these centers for keeping the shaft in the jig. I would have to make some pointed bolts [ or find some steel plumb bobs or something ] welded to some upright steel, with one end being adjustable for length.....a crude lathe of sorts.

Thoughts? Ideas? Looking for input from those that have done DS work.

Here is a link to my post about how accurately the " in phase" needs to be;
4Runner Drive Shaft to Zuk Pics - Zukikrawlers
 

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Your error on the your stock shafts could simply be the casting not being true. You said you filed it flat, but how do you know its actually flat and true to the u-joint?

I would take the flange yoke off of one end and use the u-joint caps and not the casting, and see what you get.

I would think a few degrees either way is still pretty good, espicially for a homebrew shaft.

Your method of using levels seems good to me, as thats what I've observed. You can buy more accurate machinist levels if you want to. Also make sure your locating off the u-joint itself and not the end yoke castings. The castings can be all over the place, but as long as they hold the u-joint correctly in place, the shaft will work correctly.

Kevo
 

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These guys use levels:

So does this guy:

Just to give you some ideas.

And thinking about it the castings should be accurate enough to use. I believe they are all machined flat, but when in doubt go off the u-joint cap.

Kevo
 

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I am getting ready to make up my jig soon for this. I had picked up a couple 2 piece driveshafts with CV joints on them for cores. The bolt pattern on the carrier bearing flange is the same as the trans/axle flanges. I was going to use those flanges and the cut-offs from the shafts that they bolt on to with some new pillow block bearings in place of the carrier bearings. I can clamp it to a welding table and put my dial indicator on it and spin it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am getting ready to make up my jig soon for this. I had picked up a couple 2 piece driveshafts with CV joints on them for cores. The bolt pattern on the carrier bearing flange is the same as the trans/axle flanges. I was going to use those flanges and the cut-offs from the shafts that they bolt on to with some new pillow block bearings in place of the carrier bearings. I can clamp it to a welding table and put my dial indicator on it and spin it.
I took a toy pinion flange to the Princess Auto store with hopes of finding a pillow bearing that would match it.......but no luck.....the flange part was either too large or too small to fit any of the pillow bearing holes. Of course, turning down the flange would be easy in a lathe! but no have.

You may have better luck with the pinion flange shaft tho......let me know what you find. I only have the toy flange, no shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I went and picked up the DOM today from the drive shaft specialty shop. They said that there should be a .005-.010 interference fit between the tube and the yokes, and that heating the tube was necessary for fitting the two together.

My tube / yokes should have a .005" interference fit. That is going to make it tough to make any adjustments to get the yokes in phase, once they are mated. Gotta get it bang on the 1st time I guess.
 
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