Pirate 4x4 banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gathering parts for a HP44 front to go under a '93 grand cherokee. The jeep has a V8, winch, and ARB front bumper, and gets wheeled fairly hard occasionally. It's running on 33's right now and may eventually see 35's, but likely will stay on 33's since it'll still be my daily driver for a while.

Anyway, i'm just wondering if it's really necessary to use 1/2" tubes with all the extra weight or if 3/8" tubes will be sufficiently strong and can save me a bit of weight.

Just looking for some opinions and experience.

Thanks,
-Ron-
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
Why would you get a hp44 centercection and build it and not retube it with the OEM .500" tubes? If your worried about weight then put the D30 back underneath that thing. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
I build and tube 2-3 axles a week and if the tubing diameter is 3'' 3/8 thick will be fine, for the dana 60s which is 3.125 od i prefer the .438 wall. Those are my preferences anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,082 Posts
For most applications I'd prefer 3/8" tubing. The front of a ZJ is awefully heavy though. Maybe 1/2" tubing would be better....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,607 Posts
well I'd put back what it came with. I built a HP44 and had to have that .500 side custom made since it is kinda rare to find. I believe the 10 bolt has the same size as far as a donor goes though..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. I did a little math and figure that 3" diameter tubing with 1/2" wall weighs about 13.3 lbs per foot, and the same tubing with 3/8" wall weighs about 10.5 lbs/ft. So if i'm going to have roughly five feet of axle tube, I'd should probably use the 1/2" since the finished axle will only weigh about 14 lbs more than if i used 3/8" tubing. I really thought the difference in weight would be a lot greater, but if i calculated this correctly, I'd be stupid not to use 1/2" for the added strength.

Someone please correct me if i calculated this wrong and you know the weights per foot to be far different from what i figured.

Thanks again!
-Ron-

PS.....chromo would be nice, but i'm guessing it's a helluva lot more expensive too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,145 Posts
Considering the fact that the housing cracked on my Dana 44 before the 3/8" tubes bent, I don't think I need .500" wall tubes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mudtruck44 said:
Considering the fact that the housing cracked on my Dana 44 before the 3/8" tubes bent, I don't think I need .500" wall tubes.
Damnit.....i had my mind made up till ya posted that! What kind of setup were you running when you cracked the 44 housing, and was it a specific obstacle/hit that killed it or was it just a matter of time and stress? I bent the longside tube on my D30, and cracked the housing on my D35. I was hoping that 44's front and rear would take care of both issues. Like i said i'm only running 33's on this axle and while the vehicle's wheeled pretty hard, it's not like I'm wheeling it like a rock buggy.

Thanks,
-Ron-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,145 Posts
Krash80 said:

it's not like I'm wheeling it like a rock buggy.

Thanks,
-Ron-
It was in the front of my 3200 lb Willys with 35" Krawlers. It was just one obstacle that did it. Its hard to describe what I did, but it was dumb. Also, I wheel it like a rock buggy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
I jsut finsihed doing this... used a tube from a chebby 10 bolt... It was 3/8" ... the donor furd tube was 1/4"... So, I figure it will be fine... The 10 bolt and the furd tube were the same OD...
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top