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Just getting to the finishing touches on the FrankenRover, and need to address shock valving. I know Adam W. has revalved the 7100's (all the way up to really, really firm). I was planning on going more for middle of the road valving as the valving on the 7100's I have is too stiff.

Bilstein recommends really soft valving for strictly Rockcrawling (around 150/50's or 170/60's) Currently the shocks are 360/80's in front and 255/70's in the rear.

I was thinking of running 170/60 or 180/75's front and rear.

What do you guys think? Most Rover guys recommend the stiffer settings, but I am not so sure. Also, what psi should the nitrogen be charged to?

This rig will be a 80% trail/20% street truck btw. So not really concerned with body roll around corners.

Billster

ps. Any tips on revalving? I have the rebuild kit (with 2 of every valving setup), and the disassembly tool. Do I need some additional oil (I assume that would be Bilstein specific oil)?
 

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If you are careful, you will not need any additional fluid (although Bilsteins sells a fluid that they recommend, not sure what warranty would be like if you did not follow there recommendation).

The trick is to not let the rod compress at all after the shock body has been opened, or you are looking at a much more intense rebuild. I personally "hung" the shock by the rod in addition to holding the body, so that I could have my hands free. Other than "loctite" you should have everything you need on hand. I was not smart enough to do any of my own valve stack designing (just ordered new valve stack for $15), but I am sure on the general board you could figure out how to change the valving on your own by miss matching things. If you bought an extra valve stack, you will have more than enough "flip discs" to play for days. I am sure everything I typed you already know, but just in case...

As far as the valving, are you mounting the shocks completely vertical? You loose 10% of the valving for every ten degrees of rake. I have my valving currently set to 345/135 because of the mounting configuration.

I have personal feelings that the larger the fisrt number (e.g. 345...AKA rebound) the more force in extreme off-camber situations that you have pushing you over. I think the trick for low speed rock crawling is to have the shock just stiff enough to eliminate bounce of the spring. Others have argued with me that the compression force (e.g. 135) needs to be low in order to have a balanced suspension. My thoughts on this is that when in the rocks, your vehicle is heavy enough to flex, and up-travel is not always welcomed when running huge tires. I am happy with the 135 on mine and it seems to have ample up-travel for me....

The rockcrawlign applications section of there catalog shows 255/70 as the stock valving for most of the shocks FYI....

Way

I keep playing with my shocks to get my vehicle to be less tippy. If I was smart I would try and sell my roof rack and be done with my off-camber worries.
 

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Way said:
....(although Bilsteins sells a fluid that they recommend, not sure what warranty would be like if you did not follow there recommendation). ......
Bilstein can't force you to use a specific brand of oil to comply with warranty unless they provide it free of charge to you (fedral law). Their warranty may state an ASTM spec or other industry spec that the oil used has to meet, but as long as it does they can't refuse you work under warranty.
 

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I don't see any way to bleed out any trapped air. Am I understanding that you just fill up the reservoir and the body and screw them together? I am used to Fox were you fill up through the body and release the air through a valve as you push the seal housing in. Am I missing something?
 
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