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Discussion Starter #1
just wondering if any body has put a "revolver" style shackel on the front of there rig , the reasoning benind me even thinking this is not for the extra flex that the shackels would give in a normal sence of allowing the wheel to droop farther but to allow mor 'Twisst' without making the spring twist itself, since i am stuck on using a pan hard bar ,personal decision because i like the steering presicivness that it offers both on and off road, and for the fact that it will take the majority of the lateral forces off of the leafs , except when flexing which is why i was concidering going with that style shackel, another reson i was concidering this was because i have the know-how , the tools and equipment to do this for say under $30 bushings and all just wonderign your .02
JOE
 

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What kind of vehicle do you have? A YJ? It sounds like its mostly stock, so your flex is prolly mostly limited by your shocks..therefore i doubt you ever see any benefit of a revolver...stock YJ springs are very flexy by themselves
 

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Discussion Starter #3
not sure what you would consider it but i personaly wouldnt call it "stock" thogh there are alot of stock parts just from different vehichles, but its a 87 sammy toy axels two toy cases,cv ft/r , 4.3 TH350 built (ie extra clutches in 3rd, torrington bearings ect ect) beefed but stock stall speed converter, 500 cfm Qjet, WB extended to around 85-90 in (s 10 blazer main leafs with asorted shorter leafs), and i havent bought shocks yet have yet to cycle the suspension through for mesurments probably do it over spring break, i also have a tube ft end bobed back , roll cage, custom removable hard top (for the freezin winters up here) so i wouldnt call it stock per say
JOE
 

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With a panhard bar, you shouldn't have any problems.

I run m-links in the rear, and have a set for the front.
I doubt I'll ever put on because I don't like the thought of the m-link unloading while going up a steep hill or ledge.

Also the double shackle design puts alot more stress on your springs. Is simple mechanics, the longer the shackle (double or not) the more leverage it places on your springs and hangers.

I've seen a quite a few double shackle designs on the trail, they seem to work good. If I were building one, I would make sure you could pin it though. That way get the best of both worlds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thats the line of thinking that................. well i was thinking
thanks JOE
 

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Anything that allows twisting of the spring (revolver, Johnny Joint, or whatever) up front from the shackle end will give the axle too much side to side play resulting in some nasty death wobble. A panhard should be able to stop this if it's done right and if there's room.

Only other way to do it would be something like the Orbit Eyes, where the pivot is inside the spring eye.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah i was thinking about those joints but i can fab these cheaper and dont have to wait on shiping, the reason i am using a panhard bar is not because of the shackels but i am using the shackels because of the panhard bar, and the reason i like the pan hard bar is the precisivness in the steering but dont like that it will hinder articulation ie bind the movement of the springs, thus wala double shackels to alow more "twist" in the spring, well atleast that was my thinking any way,
thanks for the coments thou they have been helpful
JOE
 

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I am by no means a link suspension guru, but it seems to me you can make the panhard work without hindering flex. Seems like if you used a heim or Johnny Joint at the frame mount, it would allow bar to follow the arc the axle makes as the shackle moves.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
see i thught about that dont think that you could w/o putting atleast allittle more lateral stress on the leafs but it could work just want to build once thats all what do the rest of you think?
JOE
 

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sounds like a built sami, post some pics if you have some. Did you stretch front and back? How much trimming did you do?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
rep im in the build up process as wee speak if i can borrow a dig camera ill take some pics but i stretched the ft and r because i had to move motor forward for the 2 t-cases and wanted to keep weight dist, more equal ft-back but i say that i did quite abit of triming to a no rust tex zuk (sorry i didnt know what a wisconsin zuke looked like untill i actually cut mine up) but it has a simualar ft end to azrockcrawlers and the back was cut off for storage boxes but i will have full fenders so the cops wont give me too much shit as it will still be driven to andfrom the trail (dont want to make a trailer queen) but i will get some pics up as soon as i can thanks for inquiring
JOE
 

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uglytoy said:
All Pro sells a weld in shackle brcket with a jonny joint to reduce spring twist. Check it out on their site. www.allprooffroad.com


BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAD:eek: Don't do this for a front application. You will get death wobbles without some sort of lateral axle control.
 

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I run revolvers all the way around, have for over a year. When I run on the road, No sway bar, NO trac-bar and I get NO death wooble or serious sway issues. I swear by them...
 

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Why would all-pros JJ shackle hanger give you more death wobble? Do you have any 1st had experiance with them in the front?
 

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TR said:
Why would all-pros JJ shackle hanger give you more death wobble? Do you have any 1st had experiance with them in the front?
Look at this picture below. You can see how the shackles are leaning over like this- / / - that means that the spring pivoted off the front mount and turned to the left, bringing the whole axle with it. It can also move the other way- \ \ -freely. When you're driving down the road, and one tire hits a bump that the other tire doesn't, it shifts to the other side, bounces back, and then keeps going in a violent "harmonic" rhythm. Only way to stop it is slow down to around 5 mph, and when you're on the freeway in rush hour, that's not fun. Just watch in your mirror somebody slam on their brakes at 70mph kareening towards you and you just slowed to around 5 to stop the wobble.
 

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I am going to disagree with you yotas.

Revolvers dont slide from side to side. The pivot in the middle. If you were to mount the revolvers, jack the vehicle up and kick the spring it would stay parallel to the frame.

Anyway I have run revolvers in the front and in the rear. I thought I liked them when I had them on, but I took them off to experiment and see if it made a differnce. I sold them right after that. I think the problem with me and many others is that we all have too much pride in what we are running and think its the best. The only way to find truth is to see both of the stories first hand and figure it out for yourself.

The problem I found with them is that you get more droop but more droop dosent mean more ground contact pressure.

Anyway this is all just my opinion. I could be wrong.:flipoff2:
 

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Erik D_lux said:
I think the problem with me and many others is that we all have too much pride in what we are running and think its the best. The only way to find truth is to see both of the stories first hand and figure it out for yourself.

It's basically the opposite for me. The pic is my truck. I ran the JJ setup and had horrible death wobble. I put a better steering stab on, shimed it, over torqued the knuckles, and screamed at it over and over trying to get the wobbles to stop. When I finally figured it out, I didn't want anybody else to go through it (and pay $100 for the problem, to boot!).

As far as the revolvers, my understanding of how they work led me to think they allow the same play. But I guess I'm wrong on their design, haven't seen one up close. Carry on then...........;)
 

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Yeah I guess I can see how a JJ set up would do that.

Keep it simple I say. I just converted all my suspension to normal leaf springs with no fancy stuff. I am sick of dealing with crap on the trail.
 
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