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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building up my YJ and have afew questions i can't really find the answers to.
I'm just got a dodge full width front 44, Its 8 lug, flat top knuckle, and has the perch cast into the housing. and a 8 lug 60 in the rear.
Questions are
will i need to out board the springs to fit the axles? I measured and it looks like the perches are a couple inches off?
I plan on running waggoneer stock springs in the rear which would put the rear back 2 1/2 inches right?
and if i use stock waggy springs in the front it will move it 2 1/2 inches fowards right?
What will i need for steering? I have the flat top knuckles on the 44 but want to keep it cheap as possible but not so much as the steering would suck just cause its cheap. Will moving the axle forward mess with the linkage? i think i can use a waggy arm and a one inch steped arm but not sure.
what kind of TRE's did you use?
i don;t plan on doing a shackle reversal or buggy leaf.
thanks fot any info you can give me, i've read a ton of posts but just can't figure some of this stuff out
 

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The Grand Waggy springs by themselves will only move your axle forward about 1 1/2".
Starting form the stationary point of your springs(the rear spring hanger in your case since your not running a shackle reverse),and measuring forward on your wrangler springs you will measure about 22 1/2" to the locating pin from the center of the eye. With the grand waggy springs you will measure about 24". The steering mods youll encounter depends on many factors. It would probably be easier for you to begin the install, and address the issues as they lay out.
Because the axle will now be located slightly on the upswing of the arch of the springs, you may also experience a slight downward angle of the pinion, as related to its relation with the T case output shaft(maybe 1 degree). Typicaly you can also expect the shackles to be angled slightly more(away from the center), as the GW springs tend to be about 1" longer when compressed.
 

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Hey-
I had Parts Mike shave the Pass (or driver, I can't remember) used Dynatrac arms and had PM drill holes in same location as my CJ, but for 1/2 ton Chevy tre's. Then since I had shortened the axle to Scout width (to utilize Scout inners and match my Scout D44 rear) I had to have a tie rod made, which was the most difficult part of it because the tre's that I used had some crazy thread that no machine shop had for lft hand or right handed thread, I can't remember what the thread was, but I remember it had a slope of 18. Try to keep the stock tie rod is what I am saying or pick some standard tre's. The reason I didn't get different tre's was because I wanted the draglink to go into the tie rod end so I could find only one tre. Then I honed out the steering stabilizer and the pitman arm hole to hold 1/2 ton ends also. Then I was able to fit two different ends together to create my draglink. After all that, the draglink would hit the tie rod at the pitman arm under compression and that is with having the axle in the stock location (moving it forward should be a lot worse), so I then cut all the P/s box brackets and tucked the box into the frame and flattened it out a little which did two things:1. moved the arm farther foward an inch and 2. tucked the box in from damage. It was a good thing I bought a welder this summer because I haven't stopped using it. So, I guess what I am trying to say is that if you go with the larger ends, they are much bigger and take up more room, and doing sos you bring everything up and closer together. I eventually had a tie rod made with solid 1 1/4" had it drilled and instead of threaded with a tap a found a guy who turned the threads on the instead, but he could only do 1 3/4" or 2" in. Which I thought wouldn't be enough, but it came out good and is solid. Moving the box is easy and it helps everything out. My steering is completely horizontal and I am SOA w/2"yj springs and shack reversed with the springs outboard. I used 1/4" L bracket on the side of the frame and then made all the brackets out of 3/16" rectangles. I hope all this helps you. E-mail if you want more detail. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Keith and I did some re engineering on my front shackle revers suspension last night. I went to the waggy springs up front. We shit canned the crappy lightweight front spring hangers that have surprisingly survived for 3 years, with frequent repairs.
We fabricated new front spring hangers from 1/4" steel and moved the spring mount 2" more inches forward and about an 1" or so downward, then set the springs with the long side to the rear and measured for the shackle hangers, and install them, we didnt realize how much flex and compression we would get from the waggy springs, so after we checked it under compression, we tore the rear hangers off and started again, We eventually got the geometry figured out correctly. The steering in my case is not a problem, as I only needed to swap in a straighter longer pitman arm to get the drag link, above and out of the way of the tie rod.
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/MVC-001Sold hanger.JPG">
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/MVC-004Snew hanger.JPG">
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/MVC-011Snewfront.JPG">
My wheel base is now about 99", I increased by about 2 1/2" overall from yesterdays modifications
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so i think at first i'll just use some 2" YJ rear springs in the front so they will match some waggy springs in the rear, so i guess my only questions are about the front axle. I took some better measurements today and it looks like i need to grind into the diff houseing about a 1/4 of a inch to fit the springs and the axle be centered under the jeep, which i wouldn't think would be to hard except there are 2 studs coming out of the housing to bolt the spring down, Like you only use one u bolt and then these 2 studs. If i grind into the housing these studs would have to come out, and then i would have nothing to bolt the spring down with <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> . so do i just run the axle about 3/4 to one inch more towards the drivers side
couple side notes i'll be running a TF999 with d300 clocked flat
thanks for any help
 

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As for steering. I just have my drag link above the spring and the tie rod in the stock location with the 7/8" TRE and Rockstomper rods. It works fine with the front axle moved forward 3"+ I run a waggy/J truck drop pitman arm for correct length. When I droop the passenger front and turn all the way to the left my drag link just barley touches the top off the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rock Slut, by dropped waggy arm do you mean dropped for a waggy or are you saying its like a drop pitman for a YJ only longer. As in stock waggy arm or aftermarket waggy drop arm.
thanks
 
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