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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/steering/highsteer.htm

$500 seems like a pretty good price. Anybody running it?? Not sure how new it is?? My only concern is the flat arms. What is the deciding factor on whether or not the TR/DL are going to bind?? Is it the spring pack thickness/flatness?? I would rather not run spacers. If binding is a big problem I would rather get some of Roggy's bent arms. <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: Convertiyota ]
 

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The good old thing about buying pre-made steering parts, will it fit your configuration...
 

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i've run stock waggies, all pro's and 44044's with my D44 and my steering arm is flat 3/4in plate, the HGE jam nut that came with my rod end because scott forgot to send me a small one has hit the springs a few times, but no major bindings..
 

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Probably the determining factor of whether your TR & DL are going to hit each other is how far your axle is moved forward. I have the tie rod under the springs and the axle moved 2" forward, but it looks like if I tried to go hi-steer, I'd have to move the steering box forward at least 2"...

FWIW, the flat Roggy arm I'm using clears my springs just fine (and it would if there was a TR on it too). I wouldn't want a stepped up one because my DL hits the frame when the pass. side is compressed as it is.

As Crash implies, YMMV, so it really depends on your particular configuration...
 

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Originally posted by Erik Beeb:
<STRONG>Probably the determining factor of whether your TR & DL are going to hit each other is how far your axle is moved forward. I have the tie rod under the springs and the axle moved 2" forward, but it looks like if I tried to go hi-steer, I'd have to move the steering box forward at least 2"...

FWIW, the flat Roggy arm I'm using clears my springs just fine (and it would if there was a TR on it too). I wouldn't want a stepped up one because my DL hits the frame when the pass. side is compressed as it is.

As Crash implies, YMMV, so it really depends on your particular configuration...</STRONG>
This is why I will run my DL to the TR, 1 ton chevy stuff, cheap too ,can't hit the frame then <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by SeaBass44:
<STRONG>This is why I will run my DL to the TR, 1 ton chevy stuff, cheap too ,can't hit the frame then <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
are there any disadvantages to running it off the tierod??
 

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Yes, you have to modify the tie rod end to make it work so you can't just go buy another one whenever you need to change it. You have to drill it out and ream it to accept the drag link end.
 

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Originally posted by SeaBass44:
<STRONG>
This is why I will run my DL to the TR, 1 ton chevy stuff, cheap too ,can't hit the frame then <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Sure it can when you're axle is wider than stock and especially if you are steering towards the right. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> (though its less likely)

You also still have to worry about TR/DL bind. On my truck I'd have to move the steering box forward quite a bit to go hi-steer.

I've also heard there can be extra steering slop w/ the DL connected to the TR because the TR can twist... There was mention of this on the General board a while ago, but I don't know how significant it is... a lot of people go this route anyway.
 

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Originally posted by Eric:
<STRONG>Yes, you have to modify the tie rod end to make it work so you can't just go buy another one whenever you need to change it. You have to drill it out and ream it to accept the drag link end.</STRONG>
Com Awn! half the stuff on our rigs is costume You have to modify the pitman arm either method, U don't say anything about that though????This is what most jeeps run

<IMG width=320 height=240 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/starr.JPG">

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: SeaBass44 ]
 

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Re: drag-link into tie rod end.

I currently have this setup, and it necessitated moving the steering arm (PM arm) up 0.5" to clear the spring on full left lock. The fat head of the draglink end ends up right above my outboarded springs at full left lock. If/when I make a new pair of arms with the drag link mounted on the arm itself, I'll be able to lower the arm back down .5", since only the tubing of the tie rod and drag link will be above the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by luke:
<STRONG>Re: drag-link into tie rod end.

I currently have this setup, and it necessitated moving the steering arm (PM arm) up 0.5" to clear the spring on full left lock. The fat head of the draglink end ends up right above my outboarded springs at full left lock. If/when I make a new pair of arms with the drag link mounted on the arm itself, I'll be able to lower the arm back down .5", since only the tubing of the tie rod and drag link will be above the spring.</STRONG>
I'm assuming your fullwidth since you said "outboarded springs". Is that true??
 

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Originally posted by SeaBass44:
<STRONG>Com Awn! half the stuff on our rigs is costume You have to modify the pitman arm either method, U don't say anything about that though????
</STRONG>

Costume is for looks hehehehe <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Well, that all depends on which drag link that you are using and what you are using for a steering box. If you are using a Saginaw box, you can always find a pitman arm with the correct taper so you don't have to modify one. He didn't ask about the pitman arm so I didn't say anything about it.

Besides....he asked if there were any down sides....and I gave my opinion. I run my drag link into my tie rod end as well.

[ 10-05-2001: Message edited by: Eric ]
 

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Originally posted by Eric:
[QB]
Costume is for looks hehehehe <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

QB]
Well it is OCTOBER!! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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I have a Wagoneer Dana 44, I am using it for my Toyota SAS.

I does not have the flat top knuckles, so I was just going to run standard crossover with the draglink connected to the tierod.

Well this is not a problem except that I want to go spring over, now I think the draglink will hit the springs on right turn.

I could:

1. Punch the steering arms out the other way and flip the tierod over so it threads through the bottom. Well this gives me the clearence that I need, but moves the tierod closer to the ground.

2. Run a bent draglink to line it up perfectly, or a dropped pitman arm...

3. I could outboard the springs (may have to anyhow)

4. Or is it safe to rebuild the spring perches and make them 3/4" taller.

What do you guys think, and don't say buy an axle with the flattop knuckles. lol

I already got this one for free so I want it to work.... <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Wolfhalen:
<STRONG>I have a Wagoneer Dana 44, I am using it for my Toyota SAS.

I does not have the flat top knuckles, so I was just going to run standard crossover with the draglink connected to the tierod.

Well this is not a problem except that I want to go spring over, now I think the draglink will hit the springs on right turn.

I could:

1. Punch the steering arms out the other way and flip the tierod over so it threads through the bottom. Well this gives me the clearence that I need, but moves the tierod closer to the ground.

2. Run a bent draglink to line it up perfectly, or a dropped pitman arm...

3. I could outboard the springs (may have to anyhow)

4. Or is it safe to rebuild the spring perches and make them 3/4" taller.

What do you guys think, and don't say buy an axle with the flattop knuckles. lol

I already got this one for free so I want it to work.... <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
You could run low-crossover with just a passenger side flat top knuckle. You can get a flat top knuckle, and swap it for your non-flat top-no need to get an entirely different axle. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Wolfhalen:
<STRONG>I have a Wagoneer Dana 44, I am using it for my Toyota SAS.

I does not have the flat top knuckles, so I was just going to run standard crossover with the draglink connected to the tierod.

Well this is not a problem except that I want to go spring over, now I think the draglink will hit the springs on right turn.

I could:

1. Punch the steering arms out the other way and flip the tierod over so it threads through the bottom. Well this gives me the clearence that I need, but moves the tierod closer to the ground.

2. Run a bent draglink to line it up perfectly, or a dropped pitman arm...

3. I could outboard the springs (may have to anyhow)

4. Or is it safe to rebuild the spring perches and make them 3/4" taller.

What do you guys think, and don't say buy an axle with the flattop knuckles. lol

I already got this one for free so I want it to work.... <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I sure hope you go spring over, otherwise you wil have to have springs with alot of arch since the toy frame does not have much rise to it like a heep does..
Depending on what springs you run, you can build little bit taller perches, only downfall is possable increased spring wrap..
If ya outboard the springs you will have alot of issues to deal with, I would not recomend it at all, i would inboard them if anything..

You can also get some 4140 and build a Z link, that stuff will hold up nicely, but you might consider a drop pitman arm first..
 
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