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Discussion Starter #1
OK we have all heard and read about flipping the hubs on a rockwell to make the axels 69" wide. Now who has actually done it? And none of this: my aunts Uncles cousins bother new a guy who's brother did it, BS.

Yes I searched and didn't come up with shit.

I would like to know how easy/hard it was. What it all involved and whether or not you were happy with the results.

Thank you
 

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it takes about 5 minutes for gomer pyle to do it!:eek: :rasta: :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
jeeper111 said:
it takes about 5 minutes for gomer pyle to do it!:eek: :rasta: :flipoff2:
THAT IS WHAT I WANT TO HEAR
 

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It is easy. All you do is replace the studs in the knuckles with bolts. I took all my lug nut studs to the machine shop and had them take off about 1/4" or so on the back side. There is a step/chamfer in the studs that you can see, this is where I had them machine the backside to. Replace the studs and reasemble.

CJ
 

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When I did it I just pulled the hub, replaced the studs with bolts (grade 8) and ground down the lug backside. Heres a trick I found. Pull off the break drum, set it on the ground and drop the lugs in the holes so the backside is facing up. The break drum will hold the lugs in place nicely while you take a grinder to them. It took me about an hour to do 12. Like was said above I ground them down to where the bevel is and whacked em in place with my BFH.

JYS
 

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LOL......

That was my axle, this was the first time to work on a Rockwell
Thanks for scaring me straight!!!!
I replaced all 12 of the 3/8X1" Bolts ant ground more off the studs (Whitch i replaced w/ all right handed studs!!!)


Thanks alot!!!! Bout' 3 days from being on the tires!!!


:rasta:
 

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Heres a suggestion :

Dont flip the hub!!! I would guess you are going to get custom rims made up so just leave the hub unflipped and run a big backspaced rim (like 8 to 9 inches back space).

The reason to not flip the hub is because sombody soon is going to do the wheel disk brake modification (I am going to soon, Ive got all the parts and all I need to do is fix my POS lathe and Im there). Now to run wheel brakes the hubs will have to be flipped out so that when sombody works out the modification then if your current setup has the hubs flipped out then you can easily do the brake mod without messing with your wheels.


I carnt see any advantage over running the hubs flipped in or out if you have to get custom rims made anyway. You will still end up with the same overall width and with large backspaced rims and the hubs flipped out then you will be ably to run wheel brakes in the future.

If you flip the hubs then you will never be able to run wheel brakes.

Just a suggestion.

:beer:

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Strange Rover said:
Heres a suggestion :

Dont flip the hub!!! I would guess you are going to get custom rims made up so just leave the hub unflipped and run a big backspaced rim (like 8 to 9 inches back space).

The reason to not flip the hub is because sombody soon is going to do the wheel disk brake modification (I am going to soon, Ive got all the parts and all I need to do is fix my POS lathe and Im there). Now to run wheel brakes the hubs will have to be flipped out so that when sombody works out the modification then if your current setup has the hubs flipped out then you can easily do the brake mod without messing with your wheels.


I carnt see any advantage over running the hubs flipped in or out if you have to get custom rims made anyway. You will still end up with the same overall width and with large backspaced rims and the hubs flipped out then you will be ably to run wheel brakes in the future.

If you flip the hubs then you will never be able to run wheel brakes.

Just a suggestion.

:beer:

Sam

Why run wheel brakes when it is 10X easier, cheaper and effective a pinion brake?

just wondering what your reasoning is

btw do i need to get custom rims made? and how much for the cheapest beadlock/nonbeadlock rims

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TRD said:



Why run wheel brakes when it is 10X easier, cheaper and effective a pinion brake?

just wondering what your reasoning is

btw do i need to get custom rims made? and how much for the cheapest beadlock/nonbeadlock rims

Thank you
Yep the pinion brake is definately easier. Wheel brakes would have to be safer and I would guess perform better in every respect. I mean just about every rig ever built has wheel brakes.

I guess that safety is the biggest concern. And anything that involves safety brings in insurance and anything with insurance (like wheeling competitions, wheeling in 4wd parks and probably wheeling anywhere maybe in the future) will mean that the rigs will have to comply to rules. And I would imagine that in the future one of the rules would be that your rig has to have proper wheel brakes for safety.

Now if you spend your money on your wheels to run with the hubs flipped in then it will be a PITA to run wheel brakes. If you got them flipped out then no problem.

You may never need wheel brakes but if you run with the hubs flipped then you can never get them. And I carnt see any advantage to run them with them flipped in anyway. It wont make you any narrower if you have to get custom rims made.

I can understand running them in if you can by a 15x10 rim with 4in backspace for a rockwell stud pattern but I dont think that you can (I definately carnt)

Sam
 

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if you use soft springs the pinion brake can actually cause spring wrap...of course this is not hard to solve...Otherwise, the pinion brake is a cheap and viable option..just depends on what floats your boat.:D
 

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CJ,

I would have thought that if you ran hubs fliped out with massive backspacing would put the wheel in the exact same position as what you are running with the hubs flipped in with the 4in backspacing.

Lets say that with the hubs flipped the wms is 10in wider (thats 5in each side) So if you ran your hubs flipped out with your rims with 9in backspaced (instead of four) then everything would be in the exact same position and the hub drive flange would also stick out the same distance.

Sam
 

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Rover, yeah you might be right there, that would make more sense wouldn't it. Also, with the hubs flipped out the drive flange really doesn't stick out :p

Umm, retract my statement.



CJ:usa:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have no worries about spring wrap (4 link front and rear). I just see pinion brake as a cheap, easy solution. how much will wheel disk brakes be and how much will they cost? I don't have a whole lot of time or a whole lot of money.

Does any one know how much rims are going to cost? and are 15" rims big enough to fit over the hub or do i need to get 16's?

As far as safty it should be almost as safe. Still have dual master cylinder.

as far as being thrown throught the windshield, it is called calculating pedal ratio and designing your brake system, not throwing it together.


Thanks for all the great help
 

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For my use, MUD, pinion brakes are the only solution. We run bigger engines with less vacuum making braking kinda fun at times. My pinion brakes work great with what little vacuum I have and I assume would work great without a booster at all. Pinion brakes are also of course higher up and out of the mud. Remember with pinion brakes and open diffs during emergency stops that one tire will probably lock up and the other spin sending you side ways. Easy solution is to Lincoln Locker it of course! I love mine and would never go back to all the hassle of typical brakes on an offroad vehicle.
 

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TRD said:
I have no worries about spring wrap (4 link front and rear). I just see pinion brake as a cheap, easy solution. how much will wheel disk brakes be and how much will they cost? I don't have a whole lot of time or a whole lot of money.

Does any one know how much rims are going to cost? and are 15" rims big enough to fit over the hub or do i need to get 16's?


Thanks for all the great help
Your right with the 4 link you won't have the spring wrap problem.. As for the disc brake set-up..I can send you pictures of the rockwell pinion brake set-up I did on a set ..The grand total in parts was 120 dollars:eek: (that included two rotors,two calipers(without cores) and the caliper bolts)..Just made my own bracket out of 1/4 plate..If interested e-mail me about the brakes. and yes a 15 inch rim will fit.If you flip the hub in to the narrow WMS then about the most backspacing you can run is 3.5 inches. if you run more than that then you have to grind on the side of knuckle for rim clearence..I do believe MRT sells them for about $200 a piece..they had qouted me a price of $118 for a complete rim minus the center..I have a source for the centers($125 for 4)..But, any machine shop should be able to make the centers cheap..MRT centers for the rockwells are nothing more than a straight piece of plate with the lug holes and center cut out(at least the ones I have seen)..good luck..:D
 

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I ended up using my old 15 inch homemade beadlocks that I used when I had a dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear. I ground the welds that hold the centers to the wheel and knocked the centers out. I then had some centers made for 120 bucks. I just finished welding them in. I choose 2 inches of backspacing cause I didn't want the hub sticking out past the wheel where it would catch on stuff. Eventually I plan on running locking hubs and I don't want them damaged. I am going to run pinion brakes as well, just need something to slow me down when crawling. So the rockwell is like 3 inches wider (hubs flipped in) than the my fullwidth 44 front and I have less back spacing so I am about 5 inches wider than when I was fullwidth, not too bad, definitely less than if I ran the hubs flipped out! I was thinking of running like prelude rotor and caliper cause they are small and I'd like better clearance than if I ran the standard chevy 1/2 ton stuff.
 
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