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Discussion Starter #1
So who is running vented pinion brakes and who is running non-vented pinion brakes? And who likes there setup.

How about taking a solid, non-vented rotor and drilling holes in it like one of the high angle t/c mounted parking brakes?

The rig will see some road miles occasionally and the pinion brake setup i got is a non vented rotor so i am Debating on whether or not to use it.
 

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rotor speed

I would only use vented, especially if you are going street speeds. Remember the gear reduction. These rotors will be turning driveshaft speed, way over 100mph.
Here is my test fit for my rotors.

Dan
 

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those rotors look awsome, exactly what i have in mind.

what brand hat & rotor are u usein, and what dimensions?

what brand & size caliper r u gonna use?

how do u plan on mounting the caliper, i was going to weld a plate to the housin to bolt the caliper to.

is the front set up gonna b on the d shaft side?
 

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more pics

The hats, rotors and calipers are wilwood. The caliper is a billet wilwood. I am attaching it to the pinion bolts. I will dig up the part numbers. I did fabricate a centering adapter out of T6 allum.
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
elf_cruiser. Is your single pinion brake a vented rotor? From past posts i think you said your rig gets some road mileage. Have you fried any pinion bearings?

JIm
 

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mine works fine, it's not vented. It's just chevy 1/2ton stuff. No, pinion bearings have not been a problem. But My pinion seal died along time ago. Be ready to change the pinion seal every few months if you don't want your rig covered in gearl oil.

man i need to get a trailer...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So would there be any ill side effects to taking a non vented rotor and drilling holes in it so it will cool better? Or should i send the setup back and buy a setup that uses a vented rotor?

How much did your setup run you dan do you remember?
 

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dan, i was going to use the dynalite calipers with similar rotors. how were r u going to attach the caliper to the axle? i was going to weld a plate to bolt it to on the housing. do you have any pics of the caliper mount?
 

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I have solid rotors on my Jeep and have had no problems. I did a fair amount of road driving this summer. The biggest thing is don't expect these brakes to work like regular wheel brakes. They are extremely touchy, I have about 1" of brake pedal travel I think....it's more like an on/off switch for the brakes. Leave PLENTY of room in front of you to stop, if you try to stop too quick you'll just lock them up and slid out of control. My pinion seals are fine.

CJ
 

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You think if you used one of the adjustable poportioning valves you could tone down the amount of fluid going to the caliper or is it just too much added power because the brake is before the gear reduction...

I was planning to use some smaller jeep calipers as they don't have a much bite as the larger 3/4 and 1 ton stuff, with a vented rotor...

Dan - what u-joint adapter are you using to go from the pinion flange to (insert series here) joint???

It looks real good regardless...

Matt :D
 

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The biggest thing is don't expect these brakes to work like regular wheel brakes. They are extremely touchy, I have about 1" of brake pedal travel I think....it's more like an on/off switch for the brakes. Leave PLENTY of room in front of you to stop, if you try to stop too quick you'll just lock them up and slid out of control.
:eek: IMHO, that's a good enough reason to drive them on the road as little as possible, if the myriad other reasons weren't enough (braking not by wheel but by axle, brakepads that run really hot and live pretty short lives, no redundancy, no parking brake, etc.)

I dig those axles for trail use, but please try to minimize the amount of road miles you put under them!

Randii
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh ya i don't intend the rig to be a daily driver by any means. I am talking maybe 30 miles on the road max and only to get to a trail head or in between trails.

CJ - Did you get your pinion brakes from Chucks trucks?


Any body have an opinion on drilling the solid rotors for a little added cooling?

Jim
 

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Heres the wilwood numbers

rotor wil-160-7105 L/H (needs L/H for correct cooling when mounted on front of diff) 12.00" dia. smallest I could get. I will run a loop type guard. 89.00 ea

Hat wil-170-3149 (shallowest hat they make) trying to keep rotor close to diff. 75.00 ea

Bolts wil-230-0150 13.00 kit for one rotor

Calipers wil-120-4997 (billet, because I dont like the cheaper ones with the crossover lines) 125.00 ea

Pads-I cannot remember the wilwood number, but I call their tec. line and explained to them what we were doing and the problems we were having and he recomended one of their special compound pads. 45.00 4pads

The brakes are mounted on the front of both axles, so to clear the Howe double ended steering rams (like Camo's). Had I done it again I would have called Station, and saved some $$$$$$.

I milled some T6 allum. to center and space the hat to the pinion yoke. I have seen some pinion brake jobs and they were "centered" with the yoke bolts, worked but a bit wobbly.

I used the rockwell yoke and original driveshaft yoke for the rear. Milled the allum. and the yoke to fit together inside the hat. Then milled the hat to fit the driveshaft yoke. The spacing between the two was .350. This put the rotor about .200 from the housing. I used the same spacer for the front.

The cailiper bracket will be 3/8 steel plate attached to the pinion bearing retaining bolts and the caliper. (haven't test fit yet) might need slight machining of the bracket.

Dan
 
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