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Discussion Starter #1
I want a front 3 link(two uppers and one centered lower). What should I use for the ends? Rod ends or Johnny joints? I am leanin more toward a johnny because on the 30 degrees of flex and their design looks like a stronger end. I would use 2 inchers for the uppers and 2 1/2s for the lowers. Or prob a 1 inch end on the bottom and 3/4 or 7/8s on the top. So geniuses of all that is fab, which one is better???
 

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Well it helps if you tell us what this stuff is going on and what your running so we can give some good input:D


But I am sure you could of searched this out on your own :D :D
 

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i went with 1" bore 1 1/4" shank QA1 heims but i haven't tried them yet so really i'm no help :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its goin on my 96 dakota. I have it on a dana 44 held by leaf springs and 35s.
 

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A 1" rod end will be stonger by far, but Johnny Joints are rebuildable and strong enough for most suspension links. I would just run a 2.5" JJ on all the ends. They have a new joint with a forged threaded body as well as the plain weld on tubes.http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=388&cat=167&page=1 They have also changed the urethane bushings so they will grease through the body and not through the bolt anymore. A 1" rod end with high-misalignemt spacers will run at least $80 each, a Johnny Joint with forged shank body will be $40.
 

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vikingsven said:
Are they (JJs) still a pain in the arse to rebuild?
Yes they are a PITA if you have no tools or skills, but all you need is a good pair of snap ring plier, a press and some common sense. You can also make a simple field tools to compress them and service them with some tubing and all thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Those look sweet. The only thing is that I cant have them be wider than 2 5/8s for the top links or they wont fit into my brackets. Do you know how wide they are?
 

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All my links are rubber bushings at one end, RE joints at the other. This gives some shock absorbing properties. I would shy away from the currie joints due to the design. the RE uses a threaded retainer ring to hold it all together, the JJ is press fit (at least the last time I looked at one) and neded a press to be assembled. In theory, an RE joint could be reasembled on the trail. HTH dave
 

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motorcitydak said:
Those look sweet. The only thing is that I cant have them be wider than 2 5/8s for the top links or they wont fit into my brackets. Do you know how wide they are?
they show them in PolyPerformances mount and the mountin width for them is is 2 5/8

 

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35xj said:
In theory, an RE joint could be reasembled on the trail. HTH dave
so can a JJ

GOAT1 said:
You can also make a simple field tools to compress them and service them with some tubing and all thread.
and I dont know about you but I usualy toss a big ass "C" clamp or 2 in my bag of crap before wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
35xj said:
All my links are rubber bushings at one end, RE joints at the other. This gives some shock absorbing properties. I would shy away from the currie joints due to the design. the RE uses a threaded retainer ring to hold it all together, the JJ is press fit (at least the last time I looked at one) and neded a press to be assembled. In theory, an RE joint could be reasembled on the trail. HTH dave
That would be a good idea, it would just make adjusting the links a little more difficult since you would have to unbolt the joint and spin it instead of just spinning the bar.

Those JJs you are talkin about that are 2 5/8s wide are the 2 1/2s? or are they the 2s? They have a 1 inch shank on them meaning i will need 2 inch .250 wall DOM tubing, sounds really beefy. That should hold up to anything I can throw at my truck.
 

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evo heims. rebuildable, lubeable, beefy


 

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I machined some cups with a bolt to compress the johnny joints to install or remove the snap rings. The most important thing is to make sure the snapring is seated all the way in the groove.

I have johnny joints on the frame end of my front links, I have beat the piss out of them for a few years now with no major problems. I have the old ones with dual snap rings that have never popped out, even all the original washers bent, but they now use heat treated ones that have not bent. They also make different thickness washers to preload them or adjust for any wear.

I recently broke my front 44 housing by hitting a rock with the diff cover at about 30 mph, the housing split in two, bent the long side shaft, buckled the lower control arms which are 2 5/8 x .250 wall DOM, buckled the drive shaft and bent both shock shafts. The johnny joints held up fine, you can see on the mounting brackets where the joints deflected about 3/8" and even bent the 9/16 gr 8 bolt, I took apart the joint to swap into a spare arm and everything was fine and reused it.
 

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motorcitydak said:
That would be a good idea, it would just make adjusting the links a little more difficult since you would have to unbolt the joint and spin it instead of just spinning the bar.

Those JJs you are talkin about that are 2 5/8s wide are the 2 1/2s? or are they the 2s? They have a 1 inch shank on them meaning i will need 2 inch .250 wall DOM tubing, sounds really beefy. That should hold up to anything I can throw at my truck.
The 2.5" JJ's are 2 5/8 wide and use a 9/16" bolt, the body is 2.5" OD, 2" wide.

The 2" JJ's are 2" wide, for a 7/16" bolt. These are also available with a welded on shank with a 3/4" thread.

The 2.5" forged body JJ's are available with a 1"-14 and 1 1/4"-12 thread, both right and left hand tread. At $40 each, there like a sore dick.
 

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GOAT1 said:
A 1" rod end will be stonger by far, but Johnny Joints are rebuildable and strong enough for most suspension links. I would just run a 2.5" JJ on all the ends. They have a new joint with a forged threaded body as well as the plain weld on tubes.http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=388&cat=167&page=1 They have also changed the urethane bushings so they will grease through the body and not through the bolt anymore. A 1" rod end with high-misalignemt spacers will run at least $80 each, a Johnny Joint with forged shank body will be $40.

I absolutely love the forged jj's from currie. I bought a few shortly after they came out and now want way more. Best idea ever and it took way to long for something like this to hit the market. However, I remember when Currie was just releasing them they said they were forged 1045 steel. Now on PIG's site it's saying they're forged from 4130 steel. Does anyone know if they have actually changed material or where the inconsistency is?
 
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