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Discussion Starter #1
I've posted this at ih8mud.com also...so please excuse the duplication.


OK- so I'm about to the point of designing a roll cage for the 45 (removable top) I'd like to devise a way to have the roll cage come out the back of the cab and go down to the rear frame rails to tie everything together. Problem is I can't think of a way to do this that doesn't permanently "trap" the rear part of the cab, rendering it a non-removable top version (which I already have one of anyway, I don't need another).

I've been toying with ideas about bars that come out when you pull a pin, round gaskets to seal around the cage when the top is on, hinges that allow bars to swing out of the way when not tied together- but pretty much I can't engineer an answer to this problem...

There is a picture attached to help to explain it better, if anyone has any possible solutions I'd be grateful, but at this point I'm just stuck. Help me please. Luke :confused:
 

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Desert Rat
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If I had a swb that I were willing to wheel, I would

A. Build a really nice roll bar

B. Think very hard about the need for a cab cage

C. If I made a cage, I would keep the two separated

D. I would never hardcore wheel with the top on anyway, SO

E. When I wanted to do the hardcore stuff, I could pop the top, and use some kind of quick-connect plates to tie the bar and cage together.


Please tell me you're not gonna cut into a good rear cab section. If cut you must, I have a cab section with some rust I would gladly trade for a good one. :)
 

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I'm in the same boat. I haven't seen details, but I hear Jack Rice, A.K.A Medusa, has a flange joint that is removable for top intallation/removal.

I think Mark is right, you probably won't wheel with the top on, so you could tie the blue piece to the window hoop and use a flange at the base of the front and rear hoops. The front and rear hoops could mate to pieces attached to the frame, that double as sliders. Make any sense?
 

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make a stout internal cage...and make a separate roll bar in the bad
 

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I don't get it :confused:

I mean, you can put in any cage design you want, whether for extra beef or just looks. But the removeable top enables you to design a stout cage [as 71RCKCRZR RYAN aptly said ;)] that hugs the inner confines of the top and interior AND you can tie the interior cage to the frame below for a strength factor that can't be much less than strut tie-ins to the rear frame would add. Also, your example's sloping rear struts don't suggest a desire to protect bed-seated passengers, so what gives? Ah, just ignore me. :shaking:





Be sure to add upper corner speaker mounts and a custom overhead lockable stereo/CB console for an above-stream-crossings waterproof listening experience :D
 

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The proper way to do it would be to do two seperate cages like Ryan says
 

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Foxfab said:
The proper way to do it would be to do two seperate cages like Ryan says
Exactly. This is pretty much what mudrak did is it not? cage inside the cab, "family cage" over a fabbed flatbed-but that idea could readily be transferred to the shortbox...
 

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No... He has no internal cage, unless he just got it. he has the covered wagon that is tied to the sliders.
PMK
chef said:
Exactly. This is pretty much what mudrak did is it not? cage inside the cab, "family cage" over a fabbed flatbed-but that idea could readily be transferred to the shortbox...
 

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I've been thinking about this for a couple years, trying to figure out what to do with mine when I get there. I don't even have seats yet, so I'm not sure how much room there is. But it seems cab space is such a premium, I'm thinking about keeping the whole cage outside the cab and maybe running the front bars through the cowl and down to the frame behind the dash. Still not quite sure the best way to come over the top and have it be removable--maybe cutting the bars off that go in the door pillars so the top comes out the side--but then the seats are an issue, they would have to fold.
I've thought about 2 cages, also--one in the cab and one in the bed, but it's not what I want.
 

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Owyhee Jackass said:
I'm in the same boat. I haven't seen details, but I hear Jack Rice, A.K.A Medusa, has a flange joint that is removable for top intallation/removal.
I would do two separate cages... and if you need, use some of the tubing clamps and make short removable spreader bars to tie them together when the top's off.

I dont recall an incab cage on mudraks rig. There is the canopy frame and the single hoop behind the cage.

IIRC, jack has the flanges for roll cage removal for other purpuoses. I dont think there would be any way to run a top based on the way the cage is designed with tubing that would have to pass through the top.
 

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You could do an exo cage that has room enough to slide the top off. The 4Runner guys do it all the time.
 

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IMHO, if it ain't welded, a roll cage is there just for show.
 

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Old Rock Doc
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IMHO, if it ain't welded, a roll cage is there just for show.
We tested (in the UO engineering lab) the hell out of the flanges I built on my cage and in all cases the 2", 0.120" tube failed away from the flange before any failure at or near the flange.



Brett is correct in that the flanges on my cage are designed to allow the entire cage to be removed, not to accomodate a removable top.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hope to never test it as a roll cage- but I assure you it is not just for show. The primary objective is to tie the rear frame rails together to make the chassis stiffer. But secondarily (sp?) to protect myself in the event of a roll over. I would think that bolted flanges of appropriate design would be sturdy enough since they would be only on the bed kickers rather than the main cab cage. I realize that ideally it would all be welded and gusseted, but in a compromise in order to be able to remove the top, there may have to be flanges.

Also, to answer Marks question-- no I'm not cutting up a good cab rear panel- I have one that is pretty ugly, but can be salvaged. This whole project was decided because the truck was almost beyond repair, not quite. I would not feel good about cutting up a truck that was in nice shape. Still open to seeing pictures of other ideas. Keep them coming, Thanks, Luke
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK if I'd type faster- I would have seen Doc's post before asking the questions- sorry.
 

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now those are :cool2:

if your data is true (and I'm not second guessing it), then I stand corrected. Just don't bolt two pieces of 3/16 together and call it a flange or sleeve 1.75 with 1.5 and drill two holes. Thats what I was refferring to.
 
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