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I'm gonna go 6 point because I don't want to use the windsheild as a structure point anymore with my stock roll bar. which means new roll cage. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

My Jeep is a 90 YJ and what I want to do is run the forward vertical bar down between the dash and the door but as I was looking at it today I thought about the e-brake and how it will be covered by the bar, Is the e-brake easy to relocate?

Has anyone done this and if so do you have pics of the finished product and what did you do with your e-brake.

Thanks all
Jason
 

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mine still works, you just gotta put your foot in there at an angle

I leave mine in gear anyway, just need it for inspection
 

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Foot pedal is easy...unless you the jolly green giant!!
As far as the handle..just grab and twist to the position desired!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0">
 

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Buddy of mine put in a MORE sportcage in his YJ....I have one in my TJ, both with the frame mount kit...inexpensive (comparatively) and well thought out...you should still be able to reach the E-brake....
 

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shittybuilt front hoop, 2" tubing, then for the bars I added I used some 1.5" pipe, I can't remember what kind it was, but the steel yard I went to said it was closer to pipe as for as being structural than schedule 40 is.
 

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Originally posted by The Flem:
<STRONG>shittybuilt front hoop, 2" tubing, then for the bars I added I used some 1.5" pipe, I can't remember what kind it was, but the steel yard I went to said it was closer to pipe as for as being structural than schedule 40 is.</STRONG>
Schedule 40 is pipe. Not good for rollbars, but better than nothing.
 

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My essentially off road cage is made with
.120 wall dom 175" tube.

It is nice... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I suggest either 175 or 2 inch. If you got the cash and the dies for the bender. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Why is schedule 40 not good for roll cages? What should be used? I will probably need 1.75" for mine.

Thanks
 
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