Rusty Body Mount Area
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Has it done real damage yet? If not, if it's just the surface, you can use a wire wheel or sandpaper to get most of it off and then go over the area with POR 15. Maybe do the POR 15 twice, a day apart. And then put the color of you choice on top of that.
If it is to the point where metal is gone, holes and such, it's a bigger job. Grind off the rust as best you can, weld in metal to replace what was destroyed, POR 15 any remaining rust, then paint.
If it is to the point where metal is gone, holes and such, it's a bigger job. Grind off the rust as best you can, weld in metal to replace what was destroyed, POR 15 any remaining rust, then paint.
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Oh yeah... we got holes... I think it was bondo when I bought it and the bone jarring ride has disintegrated it. It has not quite made it to the body mount but the surrounding area is getting pretty bad. The bottom of the cab on the outside is the worst.
As bad as this?
That's what my frame looked like a few weeks ago. Now it looks like this:
Problem now is that rear body mount is also badly rotted. I looked at fixing it, but there's nothing to weld to.
Hey Eli, I gotta disagree with ya on the POR15. It goes on great, looks like it's gonna last forever. But it doesn't. Eventually is bubbles up and starts to peel off. Just today I tossed my original oil pan into the scrap heap at the dump, it was rusted paper thin, despite 2 coats of POR15 and a coat of Rustoleum. I'll never buy the stuff again.
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1,973 Posts
the only real way to stop rust for good is to get all of it out. In some areas of the body this is almost impossible.
harbor freight sells a small sandblaster, if you can get ALL of it back to bare metal (wich someimes means no metal) you can re-prime it and paint. The spraycan stuff fom the auto parts store isn't really the ticket, you'll want some decent quality stuff from a paint supplier.
otherwise, chop it out and replace it. Make sure to primer and undercoat the stuff when you're done. If you're welding seams back together make sure to use weld-through primer.
harbor freight sells a small sandblaster, if you can get ALL of it back to bare metal (wich someimes means no metal) you can re-prime it and paint. The spraycan stuff fom the auto parts store isn't really the ticket, you'll want some decent quality stuff from a paint supplier.
otherwise, chop it out and replace it. Make sure to primer and undercoat the stuff when you're done. If you're welding seams back together make sure to use weld-through primer.
I'm thinking very seriously about doing this now. The odd thing is my cab and bed are in great shape, but the frame is toast. The interior is in excellent condition, full "Limited Edition" SR5 trim, every option. I just need a frame. Got any spares? <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
I've got the same problem on my 85; not that bad, though. Rather than cutting/grinding/welding little patches here and there,I figure I'll get the whole thing replaced by a professional. Check this out http://www.4offrd.com/toyota.htm . Do you guys think this is a good idea. Apparantly, (and of course they're going to say this) it's stronger than OE. It'll cost me about $900USD Y/N?
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296 Posts
heavy duty Toyota replacement frames are on their way! check out BudBuilt I know I am itchin' to get my hands on one of these! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I think Bud will also be offering some different options on the frames as well, but don't take my word for it - ask him yourself. he's on this board somewhere.
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I am assuming you are talking about the cab sheet metal, and not the frame. I just spent the last 2 months repairing the four corner cab mounts on my 82. I had to fab about 50 pieces of metal. It was hell, but it was worth it. I did all the work by the side of my street, no shop. Used quality car paint, non of that cheap crap. Did the proper prep, and rust proofed everything when complete. I layed down Morton bed liner on the inside of the cab to prevent paint scuff. I applied black Gator Guard bed liner as a undercoating on all the patches. Most of the sheet metal was 16 gage. Tough to bend, but worth it in the end.
<IMG width=700 height=467 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/completed front coated with bed liner.jpg">
[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: jason W ]
<IMG width=700 height=467 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/completed front coated with bed liner.jpg">
[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: jason W ]
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