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My rear FF60 seal was leaking, so I pulled it apart. The bearings, seal, and such are all stock from 1974. When I bought the axles at a junk yard they were covered in weeds and vines, owners says they came from an IH truck.

To narrow for full size, to "wide" for jeeps he said. :homer:

Anyways I bought them for cheap and put them under my Scout for more beef than the 30/44 I had.

Pulled them apart back 1999 before swapping them in and best I remember all looked fine. But almost ten years has changed alot.

I pulled the hub b/c of the leak and because of some bad noises it was making.

Wheel bearing are pitted and damaged. New ones special ordered for my odd ball axle coming tomorrow.....axle lock washer next week from Oregon via the IH/Navistar dealer. :shaking:

Spindle has some rust damage....maybe its "new", maybe its been there since the swap, I don't know. Damage worth worrying about? This is what the spindle looks like:









Also, do I pack the new rear bearings in a FF 60 rear? Seems logical to do so...

Thanks,
 

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I would say if the rust isnt on the bearing surfaces just wire brush the rust away, and throw a coat of paint on them and you shoudl be fine. Dont paint the bearing surface of course, but even then, I really dont see what it would hurt if you did cause the race that slips over those 2 places doesnt turn on the spindle (or at least is isnt supposed to and a little extra friction there may help it to not do so if it is).

No, you do not pack the bearings in a FF rear. The gear oil is supposed to lube the bearings.

Now I know since this is pirate, and some people like to be asshats just to be an asshat, someone will disagree with me and flame me......Whatever, I still stand by what I say.

Also, if you got rust on those spindles and the bearings are scared, seems to me that the gear oil wasnt full enough and therefore didnt lube the wheel bearings like it should have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would say if the rust isnt on the bearing surfaces just wire brush the rust away, and throw a coat of paint on them and you shoudl be fine. Dont paint the bearing surface of course, but even then, I really dont see what it would hurt if you did cause the race that slips over those 2 places doesnt turn on the spindle (or at least is isnt supposed to and a little extra friction there may help it to not do so if it is).

No, you do not pack the bearings in a FF rear. The gear oil is supposed to lube the bearings.

Now I know since this is pirate, and some people like to be asshats just to be an asshat, someone will disagree with me and flame me......Whatever, I still stand by what I say.

Also, if you got rust on those spindles and the bearings are scared, seems to me that the gear oil wasnt full enough and therefore didnt lube the wheel bearings like it should have.
From the size of the puddle due to the leaking seal, it was getting lube....but it would just run out. :D

Thanks for the reply. I fully expect some flaming, but I don't know, so that is why I am asking.
 

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okay, I see what you mean about the leaking seal, but a properly sealed hub kinda swirls the lube around in there, and it wasnt doing that or rust would have never started forming!
 

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If I were you, ignore the rust on the spindle between the bearings and do something about all the rust on the sealing surface. With that mess on there you won't get a seal to last 3 weeks without leaking. And yes, you can pack the bearings with grease but it will eventually get washed out by the lube. Still many, myself included, like to pack them if they are new and dry to help them break in better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
do something about all the rust on the sealing surface.

(WILL DO.) Still many, myself included, like to pack them if they are new and dry to help them break in better.
What should I do about it? Wire brush? Sand paper? Paint?
 

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Just use some emery cloth and clean it up. And a wire brush to clean up the pitting. I would take it easy on the bearing surface with the emery cloth though. No need to paint it.
 

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I'd check and see if they make a speedi-sleeve for that application. If the sealing surface is pitted, no amount of cleaning is gonna make it seal better.
 

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I would clean the surfaces where the bearing fit LIGHTLY with emery cloth, be careful to not reduce the diameter, and when you finally fit the bearings use something like Loctitie Bearing Retainer that will secure them better on the pitted surface.

The surface where the seals run iI would clean using a Scothbrite Pad and WD40 as a bit of lube.
In the picture it looks as though the surface might be salvageable at the point the seal runs.
If it's deeply pitted I have used a resin filler and smoothed it off with wet and dry paper, something like JB Weld might do it, but that's a product I've never used.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #13
More Pics








Sorry for the cell phone pics.

I cleaned up the spindle with a wire brush on a grinder some and used a mic on it. 2.667 diameter. ID of seal for this application is I.D.:2.6880"

Anybody think I still need a speedi sleeve?
 

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Can you catch a fingernail on anything anywhere near the sealing surface? If so it's worth putting the sleeve on. I hate doing the same job twice.
 

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Looking at your pictures I would say you need a speedy sleeve otherwise the seal will fail again. Diameter is not the thing the rough worn surface is the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can you catch a fingernail on anything anywhere near the sealing surface? If so it's worth putting the sleeve on. I hate doing the same job twice.
YES.

Looking at your pictures I would say you need a speedy sleeve otherwise the seal will fail again. Diameter is not the thing the rough worn surface is the problem
Thanks.

Speedi sleeve it is.
 
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