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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the fridge in the trailer I'm living in decided to quit working. I noticed it in the freezer first but it seemed to take a day or 2 to fully give up (could have been all at once and everything just took a while to thaw). It is not working on ac or lp and does not cool at all.

Any how I have confirmed that the circuit board in the front that decideds whether it runs on ac/lp is in fact working. And I have confirmed that the heating element at least on lp is working and burning good. This makes me want to assume that the ac element is also fine since it will not cool on lp. Fuses are also good and ac power source is good. Also no ammonia leaking. Also Main circuit board appears fine.... nothing burned looking.

What's next?



Edit: ac heating element also works
 

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There's no pump on those ammonia systems, just circulates via convection. All it takes to kill one is a chunk of debris to fall into the orifice and it'll stop cooling. Treat it like an old pinball machine, give it a few good thumps and shake it around. It may start working again, and if it does, plan on replacing it as it'll just happen again. :flipoff2:
 

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If it debris usually due to off level and overheating, remove it and turn it upside down overnight, if you can get it out of the RV take it for a rough ride in the back of a truck upside down.

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Turn it upside down over night, turn it right side up, let it sit for a day, then fire it back up.
Basically treat it like your suzuki :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Turn it upside down over night, turn it right side up, let it sit for a day, then fire it back up.
Basically treat it like your suzuki :flipoff2:


Ok. Everything back there is clean and this rv has only been moved 3 times since 2011, sitting perfectly leveled each time its parked.


And my suzuki died about a year and a half ago and I havnt tried to restart it.... maybe I should go turn it upsidown also
 

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What they are trying to convey to you is the circuit inside for the ammonia to travel through can get clogged up with a bit of flaked off rust or sediment hence the turning it over for a day.
 

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Replacing the complete cooling unit is not that bad of a job. You have to remove the complete fridge and peel off the back section and replace. I did one a couple years ago.
 

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Turn it upside down over night, turn it right side up, let it sit for a day, then fire it back up.
Basically treat it like your suzuki :flipoff2:
^^^^ This, if the heating parts are working this is really about all that's left. Turning it upside down usually works 50% of the time, but it almost always quits again down the road. When they start doing that it's time for a new cooling unit or a new fridge depending on the price of the cooling unit.
 

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There was a recall norcold & dometic that added an overtemp thermostat to the dtack to cut power if it gets hot, does your have it? Could be bad.

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The same thing happened in our old travel trailer. We didn't catch it in time and it caught fire. Luckily we were sitting there and I put it out with the garden hose.
 

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I replaced the cooling unit on the dometic fridge in my slide in camper, getting it out was the worst part because it was put in before the cabinets were added :laughing:. I bought a after market cooling unit from rvcool that worked great FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had my share of problems with the Dometic refer in my camper. Always the same problem, the tiny orifice gets sooted. Using a strand of fine wire to clear out the hole seems to work. The orifice is smaller than a #80 drill bit.
What orifice?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Believe the burner, but you did say not working on AC so probaly not the fix but good PM.

If you gotta buy a cooling unit i would replace the whole thing with a residential fridge.


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Yeah burner is also working good. We are only planning on living in it another 2 months and have a shed with a full size fridge hooked up to use, it's just not very convienent.

I'm also pretty sure selling a trailer with a busted fridge might cost me more the the $1000 to just put in a new one or the $600 for a new cooling unit.
 

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I've used this trick a few times with ammonia rv fridges with %100 success. Yours is a few years newer but I'm willing to bet it would work, especially if it's been in constant use. On the last one I did, I had to hook up the 12v, propane and 110v to test and run it, the freezer got down to -17 in a few hours.
 

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You say it's not working on LP, but the burner is fine, Does that mean you can actually see the flame?
 
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