It's worth a try. Use .032 stainless safety wire. You can do the single strand method or the double strand. Double strand is much more recommended, stronger. You should get a pair of safety wire pliers since it makes the job easier. A jig for drilling the bolt heads is nice also...
We safety wire bolts all the time at work, its a must for jet engines. You don't want bolts to work loose on those, can be a disaster. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
I DO HAVE LOCK WASHERS ON THERE TOO..........DONT HELP.......ACUALLY THE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS ARE STRONGER THAN A REGULAR STUD.......THERE IS A BIG FASENER ARTICLE IN THE NOV ISSUE OF CAR CRAFT.......ITS PRETTY COOL......I GUESS IF YOU GET LIKE ARP OR OTHER THAN COMMERCIAL HARDWARE......EVEN THEN I DONT SHEER THEM OFF THOSE DAMN THINGS JUST COME LOOSE........
I had this aggravating problem on the 44 on my Scout, especially once it was locked and on 36's. Easy fix...studs did the job. I tried every bolt and washer combo, but nothing worked. Once I studded it no more problems. Just make sure you clean and dry the shit out of the threads (Honey, have you seen my blowdrier?) and red locktite those beotches and jam nut them in to torque, let them cure for a day and your done. I used Grade 8 nylocks for grins and the never came loose again.
I must tighten mine every trip. A friend forgot and they came loose, lost a few bolts, then sheared off the remaining ones. Warn hubs used to come with a tab washer that locked them in. I have not seen any new Warn hubs, dont know if they use them anymore. Safety wire is cool, but not easy. The wire must be run correctly, twisted, and tied off. Not a five minute job.
I have my hub bolts saftey wired and they have never even loosed from what I tightened them to before the wired was tied. That is the way to go. My dad is an ex-SCCA driver, so when we rebuilt my front axle he suggested saftey-wiring the hub bolts. Works great. I would recommend saftey-wiring the bolts to anyone.
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