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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I got a complete drivetrain on a Blazer K5: Chevy 350, 700R Tranny and NP 208.

I will switch to a Dana 300 transfer case. My question is ... will this adapter i already have to mate a NP208 to a 700R work for a Dana 300??

The adapter has 4 bolts on the tranny side and 6 bolts on the transfer case side...




it looks just the same pattern as the Dana300 but i don't know.

I apreciate your help.
 

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The short answer is no. You have 2 problems. 1: The GM circular 6 is different than the Jeep circular 6, they are rotated differently. 2:The 700R output shaft is 27 spline and the dana 300 is a 23 spline. You can buy a 27 spline input for your Dana 300 though. Just call advance adapters they will set you up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks BS...

So, if i get the 27 splines input.. and a Clocking Ring like this:


Do you think i will be able to mate this Dana300 behind my 700R4, Using my actual tranny-to-T.C. adapter???
 

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Yes, you can. It's how mine is done. The input shaft on the t-case will have to be replaced, but it WILL bolt together. You'll only be able to use five of the six holes though - one is off, and can't really be redrilled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OlBlueCJ7 said:
Yes, you can. It's how mine is done. The input shaft on the t-case will have to be replaced, but it WILL bolt together. You'll only be able to use five of the six holes though - one is off, and can't really be redrilled.
So you mean you needed a new input shaft for the TC and the Clocking ring?? Or just the input shaft?
 

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I'm just using a new input shaft, no clocking ring. If I remember right, there is a little bit of clocking already on the 208 adapter. With mine, I was able to run a flat skid that is only 1 1/4" below the frame rails.
 

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Just keep in mind that the 208 adapter doesn't have a seal in it like the aftermarket ones do.

I had ATF getting into my D300 in a bad way because of it, so I decided to replace the front bearing with a sealed one, as well as a double lipped seal. It's cheap insurance - $20 and 30 min with basic handtools.
 

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I decided to replace the front bearing with a sealed one, as well as a double lipped seal. It's cheap insurance - $20 and 30 min with basic handtools.
Good idea. I'm getting ready to rebuild my 300. You wouldn't happen to have any info on the seal and bearing you used?

How is the orientation of the mounting foot on the adapter? I heard something about it being rotated in this application. Did you have to do anything special with the cross member?
 

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The sealed input bearing for the D300 is a 6209-2RS C3 THD (this is a Kinex brand part number). Basically, if you go into a bearing supply house, tell them you need a SEALED 209BB (that's a Timken #) bearing.
EDIT: Timken SEALED bearing part number is 209DD

I'm not sure on the double-lipped seal, but the Timken brand, SINGLE lip seal is 471869. Any decent place that sells seals & bearings should be able to cross-reference that, and get you the double-lipped version.
EDIT: THE DOUBLE LIPPED SEAL PART NUMBER IS 473459. If you look close, you can see where I wrote the part number on the seal in the second pic, just in case someone ever needed it.

Some pics:




This one shows the one 'missing' bolt I mentioned earlier:


My new crossmember (which allows me to drop my skid plate without having to try & support the tranny & t-case)


Crossmember bracket:


Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jesus.. this info really helps!

Thanks OLBLUCJ7 for taking the time to share this info with us...
 

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Just an FYI - I've got close to 500 miles on this setup (double lipped seal, sealed input bearing w/208 adapter) now, and my t-case fluid is still gold as can be, so it must be working!
 

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Rumor has it that Novak adapter is no longer making the input shaft required for this swap. The Novak shaft that I am using in my setup is from one of their older version adapter assemblies, and they have since 'shortened' that assembly in newer versions.

Please double check with Novak before going ahead with this swap, as the input shaft you order from them may be incorrect. Other manufacturers may still be making an appropriate input shaft, but I'm not sure.
 

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Rumor has it that Novak adapter is no longer making the input shaft required for this swap. The Novak shaft that I am using in my setup is from one of their older version adapter assemblies, and they have since 'shortened' that assembly in newer versions.

Please double check with Novak before going ahead with this swap, as the input shaft you order from them may be incorrect. Other manufacturers may still be making an appropriate input shaft, but I'm not sure.
has anyone confirmed this yet?
 
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