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Discussion Starter #1
Here a few pictures of the jeep before the build. It took me awhile to get it as it was here.




The jeep had a hp d30 with chromos and an E locker 488s up front and an 8.8 out back. I had triangulated the rear uppers and three linked the front. I had been wanting to do the 1 tons for a long while and finally said "What the hell". I sold the hp 30 and the 8.8 along with the 36in Iroks and all other stuff that I wasn't going to use and the bought this stuff.
The build begins.
The first things I picked up were a 79 hp d60 and a 14bolt.


The dana 60 after the wire wheel.


Not knowing how far my budget would allow me to get, I traded the 14bolt for a D70. The d70 had the same gear ratio as the d60, 410. I knew it would be a turd with the 410s but at least I could drive it if I didn't get to change the gears out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2



So my plan was to get the d60 and the d70 mechanically sound.
NOTE: 90% of you bastards that post these threads don't state the fact that just to get these 1 tons mechanically sound costs a lot. :eek:



Also one of the king pins on the d60 was kinda bad so I decided to change it out. After reading thread after thread, I begun. That thing was a pita. Finally got it out.


While I had the d60 stripped down I cleaned everything up and painted it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I started getting a few things together. I needed to build two new control arms for the rear uppers. The ones I had were not going to be long enough.
These are from Rusty's Off Road.

The uppers would be built from 2in .250 wall dom.

I already had a Teraflex long arm system for the lowers. Here they are with the new lower rod ends.

So I got the d60 reassembled, new brakes and rotors and Warn hubs.

It was now time to address the rear quarter panels. I made a cardboard template and had a local fab shop cut some 3/16 plate to match.
I figured it was cheaper to do this than to pay 300.00 to 500.00 for a similar result.



I was also going to be able to reuse my 3in Smittybilt tube fenders.


No turning back now.
 

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whats your overall build going to be? stretch? new suspension?
 

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cool man! keep it up... you're making great progress. And you're right about it costing a lot just to get the axles usable :) Granted, I'm upgrading and replacing, but mine still aren't ready to install and i got started last June!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so I finally got a few orders in. One from Ballistic Fab, via Carolina Truggys.




I did a little work to the d60.



I also had to address the issue of where I had outboarded the rear shocks. Luckily I had kept the pieces I had cut out. I welded them back in.

 

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Looks good. I have the same front axle. Yes they take some $$$ to be rebuilt. Mine is all in pieces right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The guy I had traded the 14bolt for the d70, had these. 16x9 Champion beadlocks. I got them for 450.00

One cleaned, one not.


So it was now time to give the d70 a little attention. The rear disc brake bracket.
I had to cut off part of what was there and weld the Ballistic brackets up.






 

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Discussion Starter #10
So then I picked up the dom for the upper rear links.

I also started mocking up the d60.


I had rather build than buy somethings. So I cut out a template from cardboard and started building my d60 truss.






 

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Discussion Starter #11


I had also put 1/4 plate inside as the lines show.



I used a piece of 1/2 plate under the edge of the spring perch and on top of the cast to bridge and weld the truss to. The 1/2 plate is also welded to the cast.

You can also see the truss is welded to the top part of the d60.



 

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Discussion Starter #12


Then to do some more cutting.
NOTE: All this cutting crap off and out was done with a 4.5 Dewalt and Harbor Freight grinders. Some with the HF bandsaw. That means, well damn you know what that means, it takes a long frikking time.
Factory track bar mount.


So I stuck the d60 back under the front of the jeep for the 1469th time.

Here is the rear d70 truss mock up, also the rear axle links and etc.




 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some of this stuff may be out of order as to when I done it, but you get the jest of the big picture. So don't break my balls over the dates on the pics.




Tabs for the rear Antirock

I also got an order in from Ruff Stuff.


So when I ordered the heims for the front linkage, track bar, drag link, tie rod, I didn't get the correct tube inserts. The ones I got were to big, so I had a friend turn them down a little on the lathe. This the 1.5x3/8 wall dom for the front. This piece was cut for the fitment of the tube inserts.

The old trusty HF bandsaw.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So here is the mock up of the front d60 steering and track bar.
The track bar was kinda a dilemma for me. I wanted it to be parallel with the drag link and to also be of equal length. Here are some pics of the trials.




This is what I ended up with. And the drag link and the track bar are the same length.


CLOSE.

Track bar, drag link.

Frame mount.

With enough clearance for the Antirock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I also put some of these speed holes in the d60 truss.
NOTE: These give you an extra 15hp, the air goes through the holes down the exhaust creating a vacuum effect at the end of the tail pipe sucking out the exhaust, thus the added 15hp.:flipoff2:






Jacked up.


Most of the bolts in the pics are for mock up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here is what I did to the fuel tank. I made a box for it and it will go in the back behind the front seats by the tailgate.




So here is how the jeep sits as of now.


The 5.5in lift springs are a little to tall, but I will probably leave them until I get the tires. I at trying to decide between 39.50 Iroks and 39.50 Pitbull Rockers. I would like to go 42s, but I didn't build for that. The wheel base as of now is 101. I can take the rear out a little more, if needed.
More later.........
 
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