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Allright I have a question that has been covered about a billion times on this board, and of course I have searched. I found alot of usefull stuff, but I also agree with Booger Weldz on this one......."there is a plethora of crazy knowledge available here, too bad its ten feet deep in a pasture full of manure". I too found more "search newbie" than I did usefull stuff. So, I am going to ask the question yet again.........

If you could do your SAS all over again, how would you do it? I need info on everything. From which axle you would use, to spring mounts, to which individual leafs in the pack if you built custom springs. Steering. Open up on this one. What would you do differently after driving on your SAS for a few years?

I am doing the swap on a 90' Extended Cab Pickup with the 22RE. Looking to net only about 5" of lift to fit some 35s with good amount of fender trimming. Also, going to go wider with the axles too.

Allright......give me everything you got.
 

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Oh, and yes, it is my daily driver, so any tips those that actually drive their rigs everyday would be appreciated.
 

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Chebby D44 like Erik B did instead of outboarding springs for my wagoneer 44. 1.5" front spacers "fixed" it though. Just not much room to mount shocks, etc. OR a Toyota with longfileds (still pissed they are so good) :flipoff2:

Stock wagoneers springs or hybrid Toyota rears up front instead of 44044's (too tall IMO)

Rear Allpro 3 or 4"ers instead of the 5's (too tall)

Steering - might run std. Xover over hi-steer.

That's all I can think of now.
 

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Wicked Raciest !
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Basicly I would do it the same way. The only thing I would change is the front spring hanger, I have one of the early A-P hangers and in my opinion it need more beef. At the time that I did mine there was not of choices at the time. I did mine almost 4 years ago. I have added some "Beef" to the A-P hanger and when I get some time:D I am going to make my own . From what I understand the newer version of the A-P hanger is a lot beefer. I run the A-P 5.5 springs without a problem, but my rig is heavy!!!!:eek: Here is a shot of the way I modified the A-P early hanger.:D
 

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Bones said:

That's all I can think of now.
That's it? AFter looking at pics of your truck, I have a longer list for you. :) :) Just kidding..


Me... if I were to do it again, I'd actually do it rather than buying it already done. :)
 

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rockota said:
Me... if I were to do it again, I'd actually do it rather than buying it already done. :)
We all make mistakes :flipoff2: Since then you have still turned every bolt on that thing, might as well have built it.
 

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Well I don't know cuz mine ain't done yet. I wanted the width and no spacers so I went full width. One thing I'm thinking about though is collecting the stuff to go coils with a 3 link set up.
 

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Use 3/8ths plate for the spring hanger and guesset it back at least 4" along the frame to prevent cracking. Use 70's Chevy spring eye bushings in the frame for the shackle mount inside 1.75"x.120" tubing. Flexes great with no loss of on road stability.
All-Pro 1.5" longer than stock, 4" lift springs, with the front spring eye hole even with the front of the frame, 3" drop. Put the shackle mount hole 45" from the front of the frame, 2 1/2" up from the bottom of the rail. 3/8" thick shackles with 6" eye to eye.
Steering gear box in the stock location. The drag link will juist clear the tie-rod on compression. Cut the firewall for clearance. This setup will use ALL of a 16" shock.

Oh ya, this is for a toy axle.
 

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Bones said:

We all make mistakes :flipoff2: Since then you have still turned every bolt on that thing, might as well have built it.
That's true... only thing left that was done by Jack are the front shackles and rear susp...
 

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maybe if this thread is visited and hashed out by some of the SAS already complete guys this could be a great reference thread to send stupid newbies like me to search, with out hijacking this thread i would like more info on the spring hanger that boogerweldz posted a pic of about a week ago, reference points to somewhere on the frame, materials used etc. also shacklemounting points are nice as well, movement of steering box, etc. i have been searching for months and still feel lost without actually having any of the parts in front of me yet. I know there are MANY different choices, however some standard info would be greatly helpful.
thanks chad
 

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UP_ROKTOY said:
maybe if this thread is visited and hashed out by some of the SAS already complete guys this could be a great reference thread to send stupid newbies like me to search, with out hijacking this thread i would like more info on the spring hanger that boogerweldz posted a pic of about a week ago, reference points to somewhere on the frame, materials used etc. also shacklemounting points are nice as well, movement of steering box, etc. i have been searching for months and still feel lost without actually having any of the parts in front of me yet. I know there are MANY different choices, however some standard info would be greatly helpful.
thanks chad
I was looking for all the info I could handle a few month's ago. Here's a few places that helped me a bunch with technical info,measurements, and a ton of good ideas.

All Pro SAS instruction's

Roger Browns tech by the tons

Eric B's Sooopa Tech site

If you read ALL these pages you'll probly not have many unanswered questions. For the picture that Booger posted I don't know what picture your talking about but if you search under his user name it might bring it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for all the info

anybody with any questions on SAS stuff, feal free to hijack this thread as it pertains to the original question
 

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big4294x4 said:
It is my daily driver.
Cut and turn the knuckles. It's not that hard if you have a place to rent a giant pipe cutter. Especially if the axle is a ALREADY bare housing in the shop.

Gusset the holy fawking hell out of the spring hanger.

Like so many others on this board, I bent my hanger (mine is a Kongs4x4 one) becuase I didn't add enough gusseting and slammed it against a rock. A lot. Hammered it back to shape and when to town. Gusset the top of the hanger to the body mount and the side of the frame... and gusset the back of it to the bottom of the frame the way Zags mentioned - Boogerweldz's pic is a good illustration of it.

If I were going to do an SAS on a buddies rig right now, I'd do it exactly how Zags said above. Listen to the man. Maximum approach angle, the steering clears, etc.

I'd also use 3" springs and go apeshit with a sawzall to fit 38s.
 

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TNToy said:
Cut and turn the knuckles. It's not that hard if you have a place to rent a giant pipe cutter. Especially if the axle is a ALREADY bare housing in the shop.

Gusset the holy fawking hell out of the spring hanger.

Like so many others on this board, I bent my hanger (mine is a Kongs4x4 one) becuase I didn't add enough gusseting and slammed it against a rock. A lot. Hammered it back to shape and when to town. Gusset the top of the hanger to the body mount and the side of the frame... and gusset the back of it to the bottom of the frame the way Zags mentioned - Boogerweldz's pic is a good illustration of it.

Definately a bug plus IMO

Or make a super overkill hanger out a 1/2" material. Heck I might still gusset mine :flipoff2:
 

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I would do way more in depth research if I had to do it again. Don't be afraid to start new threads and PM people. Even if you get flamed by 15 people and 1 guy answers you question, who the hell cares about the rest of em?
I figured I'd do the cheapest suspension out there. Rear Chevy's and rears up front with AAL. There is already enough info on the Chevy's, but I would have PM'd everyone who had the rears in front and picked their brains.

I definatly wouldn't use Johnny joints at the frame end of the shackle again, as they are causing horrible death wobbles. But I wanted to try something more unique, which is also why I did 3/4 ellip with the Chevy's, modified to combat axlewrap. Unfortunatley, that modification is taking away all the benefits of the 3/4 setup. I'm still working to make it better.

Realize you are gonna need to spend a while fine tuning and adding details. Write out a list of EVERYTHING you want to do. Then make a list of parts you need to buy with prices so you know your approx. budget. Then add about 25% if you really think you have everything. If you know you're missing something, add 50%.

All the time and work I put into the rearend, and I'm already regretting using leafs. You just can't beat a good ole 4 link. If I had done more research, I probably would've gone double triangulated 4 link rear (like Desertoy's) with coils or maybe 1/4 ellip and a big sway bar.

When you're out there working on your rig, make sure you have a buddy out there with you. Not just for safety, but even if they have no fab skills or whatever, they can hand you tools/beers, and it helps A LOT to just have someone to BS with. Otherwise you just start thinkin how much you're hating working on it so much, and cut corners (ask me how I know:( ). I spent many many nights working on my truck, by myself just wanting to finish it and get the hell outta there.

Get all your parts before you take it apart. Do as much as you can before actually cuttting into it. Get as many people to help as you can. As TNToy will tell you, it helps to pre-assemble everything so you know if you're missing anything, like a little frikkin bolt or something. If I would've done all this I would've been done after a long weekend. It took 5-6 weeks instead:eek:

Since everyone's showin their hangar, here's mine. It's kinda like the pic of Jay's. It wasn't done in this pic. The yellow is gonna be a plate to give more lateral support to the actual hangars, and they are angled, so they act as a skid plate. The red are gussets.
 

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The only thing I'd think about changing from how mine is now is maybe to go with stock Toy perch width if I was starting from scratch. I guess I could go w/ a hi-pinion 44 too, but that would be a lot of extra work or cost. But since we're dreaming... :)

I made some new shackles that hold the bolt heads from turning like RogerB's, so those are going in now.

Links and coils or air bags would be cool, but then I'm really dreaming and its really a whole new ball game. :rasta:
Maybe someday...



As for spring hanger beef- I'd recommend using a BUSHING SLEEVE over the bolt. This makes it so you can crank the bolt all way down tight, and it ties the two sides of each spring hanger together.

That way when you hit it, it has to bend both sides in order to bend anything (so my 1/4" hanger is about as strong as some of your 1/2" hangers as far as bending goes). The only place mine has bent is right below the bolts where it doesn't really affect anything except squish the bushing. Trim off any excess material hanging down below/in front of the bolt too, and that won't happen very easily either.

I use Jeep bushing sleeves. Foothill carries them for like a buck each. They use a 9/16" bolt, are 3/4" OD, and 3" wide. They fit perfect inside the 3.5" square by 1/4" wall tube that I use for hangers, and if you use toy width springs, put a 3/4" washer on each side to take up the slack. And if you already have Toy width hangers, then just cut 1/4" off the sleeves.

Works great!
 
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