[93TOYforME]

I have a marlin crawler SAS kit and am installing the frame tubes for the shackles and am not sure what is meant by their instructions, they say to center the tube in the frame, then push out 1/4". also, the shackles included in the kit are straight with spacers for the spring end, but the pictured ones have bends with no spacers Anybody know if thats a new style or what? any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Max Volume]

1/4" out at the 6 O'clock position. (or the 12 O'clock position) Put the 3/4" spacers at the spring end, no spacers at the frame tube.

 

[BeaterToyota]

The spacers go on the spring end of the shackles. This is to make up for the frame (and the shackle tubes) being wider than your leaf springs are.

As far as centering the tube, then pushing it out 1/4", I don't know. You're essentially gonna want the tubes set so that your shackles will line up squarely with the front spring hanger.

 

[93TOYforME]

thanks but the bolts included with the shackles dont fit through the spring with the spacer and shackles on it. and on the 1/4" part push it outside the frame rails that much or inside frame? thanks again.

 

[Max Volume]

thanks but the bolts included with the shackles dont fit through the spring with the spacer and shackles on it. and on the 1/4" part push it outside the frame rails that much or inside frame? thanks again.

Outside the frame. If you have straight shackle plates then you should have 4 150mm bolts. Did you get front & rear shackles?

 

[93TOYforME]

no just front shackles not sure how long the bolts are but through the spring, spacers, and shackles it one thread left for the nut.thanks

 

[dildinon]

call marlin???

 

[93TOYforME]

yeh but there closed for the weekend and im trying to get it done this weekend? anybody else have this problem?

 

[4CrawlR]

no just front shackles not sure how long the bolts are but through the spring, spacers, and shackles it one thread left for the nut.thanks

Got a ruler? 150mm = 6" and those are widebody shackles, something like this:

 

[skinny_pedal]

marlins front shackles arent straight, there bent. no spacers for there shackles

 

[kiyul4130]

they use to sell the shackles that tapered in. i met a guy in sac that got his sas kit/ and truck done about 3 months before me. his were tapered in. either they still have them and throw them in whenever or they just have the straight ones now. mine are straight. i prefer the look of the tapered but w/e, what can you do....

 

[93TOYforME]

alright, thanks, i'll pick up some longer bolts tomorrow. but for the frame tubes by push out they mean towards the outside of the truck right? I just want to make sure i do this right the first time.thanks

 

[4CrawlR]

Probably best to measure the tubes in the frame to be sure. Make them even side to side and also make them align to the front hanger. The factory tubes are about 1.4" wider than the spring eyes and front hangers, so if you set the inside spacing between the two tubes 1.4" less than the width of the front hanger, or the outside 1.4" wider than the front hanger then it should be all lined up properly. And you might want to consult some other instructions:

http://allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=64

 

[93TOYforME]

thanks for the help. is there any advantage to the wide body shackles over the tapered ones?

 

[kiyul4130]

thanks for the help. is there any advantage to the wide body shackles over the tapered ones?

nope, basically just for looks. im sure its a lot easier for marlin to have straight ones and some spacers then spend all that time getting them bent.

 

[4CrawlR]

Wide body shackles help to avoid problems with the shackles hitting the frame under compression:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml#FAQ5

 

[kiyul4130]

either way though, when your at that much compression the non tapered will go back just barely more after the tapered would. you wouldnt be getting that much more out of it, but what your saying is true.

 

[OOP'S]

either way though, when your at that much compression the non tapered will go back just barely more after the tapered would. you wouldnt be getting that much more out of it, but what your saying is true.

That is funny, when I went to straight ones I gained about one inch more after I modified the body mount!!! :flipoff2:

 

[93TOYforME]

okay, one more question for you the upper A arm mount is shared with the motor mount, so now with it cut off there must be a loss of structural integrety, have you guys just plated the opening in or let it be? its the 3.0 Thanks.

 

[Pazuzu]

okay, one more question for you the upper A arm mount is shared with the motor mount, so now with it cut off there must be a loss of structural integrety, have you guys just plated the opening in or let it be? its the 3.0 Thanks.

Plate the opening, and make sure that the rest of the mount that has the factory welds to the frame is in good shape (no cracks in the weld).