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SAS'ers, anyone move the steering box forward?

4554 Views 28 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Nate C
Thinking about hanging my axle 4" forward of stock (so I don't have to cut into my firewall to fit 38's), which will likely force me to move my steering box toward the very front of the frame. (Will have to cut into body mount, etc.) Anyone do this, any problems with it?
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I dont know what type of steering box you are using but I used a 2wd saginaw box from a chev truck. Mine is right up against the front body mount. Using the same steering box as me I know jason conover cut off his body mount and ran the box all the way forward. I never heard him talk about side effects from this as he encouraged me to do it as well..
I think I'm going to stick with the stock IFS box.
heres a pic of jasons pushed forward
<IMG width=527 height=400 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/jasaginaw.jpg">
and for what its worth heres mine pushed up to the point of the body mount. I dont think mine would accomadate an axle moved 4" forward..
<IMG width=531 height=232 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/mysaginaw.jpg">
Originally posted by Drew Persson:
<STRONG>I think I'm going to stick with the stock IFS box.</STRONG>
oops well then igonore my posts, lol. sorry..
Drew, cut that flimsy ass body mount outta there and mount the box forward...... don't sacrifice a proper buildup for factory located stuff like that! just move the body mount inward on the rad support ( and cut the rad support away too )........ whew must cut back on the coffee........ startin to rant there <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Hey Chris!

I emailed Rick the other day about some pitman arms. Is there any way I could buy one tapered for Chevy ends now (to use during the buildup), then send you two cores with the knuckles later on? One core is a brand-new never-mounted "555" arm and the other is the old one off my IFS box, that way you could keep the new one and retrofit my old one to the Chevy taper so I'd have a spare. Let me know what you guys charge to convert arms to the Chevy taper, my new email is:
[email protected]
Originally posted by militaryota:
<STRONG>and for what its worth heres mine pushed up to the point of the body mount. I dont think mine would accomadate an axle moved 4" forward..
<IMG width=531 height=232 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/mysaginaw.jpg"></STRONG>
What year and model rig is that box originally from? What year and model is the pitman arm from? I didn't know there were Saginaw boxes that could mount on the outside of the frame. Is it stronger than a Toy IFS box? That looks pretty good...

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Drew Persson ]
Originally posted by Drew Persson:
<STRONG>What year and model rig is that box originally from? What year and model is the pitman arm from? I didn't know there were Saginaw boxes that could mount on the outside of the frame. Is it stronger than a Toy IFS box? That looks pretty good...

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Drew Persson ]</STRONG>
this one is from a 82 2wd blazer. The pitman I am not sure of. I went in to my local wrecking yard and they have a huge shelf of pitmans, this one worked perfect for my application, no name on it. I dont know the actual numbers of what box is stronger, the reason I switched was becuase it went along with my motor swap and axle swap. I wanted to be all chevy...
Been sketching it out, looks like moving the axle 3" forward might be better (spring centering hole 1" behind centerline of the axle). Using 52" rear Alcans on the front, that would put my front hangers 4.5" forward of factory Toy hangers, and the rear hanger 3.5 behind the factory Toy hanger. (would have to do some work on that body mount too)
Eight (Jason Wilson) moved his IFS box forward, cutting off the body mount, etc. He hasn't wheeled it since he did that though (he's been in the middle of about 20 different projects on his rig at the same time) and now he's going w/ the Saginaw box similar to what's pictured above. His is off a 2wd Chevy, don't know what year.

I don't think the Sag box is not on yet... so I'm sure he could take pics of what he did for the IFS box and post 'em. His email is [email protected]
Originally posted by militaryota:
<STRONG>oops well then igonore my posts, lol. sorry..</STRONG>
Was checking out your page, how far apart are your front springs, center to center? Looks like 31" would be the easiest for me, but I could probably tighten it up to the stock 30" if I had to.
Originally posted by The Beeb:
<STRONG>Eight (Jason Wilson) moved his IFS box forward, cutting off the body mount, etc. He hasn't wheeled it since he did that though (he's been in the middle of about 20 different projects on his rig at the same time) and now he's going w/ the Saginaw box similar to what's pictured above. His is off a 2wd Chevy, don't know what year.

I don't think the Sag box is not on yet... so I'm sure he could take pics of what he did for the IFS box and post 'em. His email is [email protected]</STRONG>

Hey Erik! I emailed your buildup page to my brother, he's looking at an '85 but I was telling him maybe we should get an IFS and go your route.
You'll have to move the mount or buy another box. Just like your FF axle, the RIGHT way to build it is with the factory FF non USA lancruiser hubs. The right way to build what you are after is probably an FJ80 box, which is also bound to beefier.

I almost went with an FJ80 box with my setup so there was clearance for the panhard rod... things managed to sneak in with stock unit, though. The 80 series box has its arm mounted forward, or 180 degrees from the IFS unit, which you probably knew.

Brian
Originally posted by Drew Persson:
<STRONG>Was checking out your page, how far apart are your front springs, center to center? Looks like 31" would be the easiest for me, but I could probably tighten it up to the stock 30" if I had to.</STRONG>
good eye but I got them down to 30.5".
Originally posted by Bjowett:
<STRONG>You'll have to move the mount or buy another box. Just like your FF axle, the RIGHT way to build it is with the factory FF non USA lancruiser hubs. The right way to build what you are after is probably an FJ80 box, which is also bound to beefier.

I almost went with an FJ80 box with my setup so there was clearance for the panhard rod... things managed to sneak in with stock unit, though. The 80 series box has its arm mounted forward, or 180 degrees from the IFS unit, which you probably knew.

Brian</STRONG>
Good idea, but happen to see what Spectre charges for an '80 series box?
<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
Like $2,000 or something.

It would be great, but I want something that I can find on a Sunday afternoon for $100 at a junkyard out in the middle of nowhere if need be. Scares me to have to rely on rare parts, which is why I have spare '80 knuckles, birfs, shafts and even spare rear FF hubs. Won't necessarily take them wheeling all the time, but will always have them within an hours drive of wherever I go. (in the motel at Moab, etc.)
how about a scout box where the pitman points forward?
Problem with the forward-pointing arms is tie-rod clearance with hy-steer, the factory FJ-80 has the tie-rod behind the axle so it's not an issue. I'd be concerned about an above-spring tie-rod hitting the sector shaft nut at full stuff.

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Drew Persson ]
I'll make some calls and see what they go for around here...

Have you broken an 80 series birf yet? I had about 8 of them several years ago... I sold them all to Karl B. for a song.

Brian
I've got three spares (or maybe five) right now, one of them from Carl actually. Axle is still in the project phase, haven't driven an inch. There is a local guy that's broken two, but he removed his steering stops and way overextends the joints.
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